SaabGuy

the thing is, I turned down my FCD so that the clamping is at 3v. Not sure of the PSI, just guesing 7psi at 3v, and the car still cuts.

The factory guage reads dead on zero with only the key on, then drops like a rock at idle. This cutting does not seem to be dependant on where the boost guage is, but if I were to put a number on it I would say 37 on the guage. (Thats 370 hg converts to 7.2psi) at the begining I did not think it was fuel cut, and not Im begining to think its either the ECU, injectors/injector wires, or ignition coils(but they test good).

Well, Im going to take my car for a spin right now. the last time I drove it, I had 2 burnt resistors inside the ECU, so maybe by some stroke or luck its all better even though the resistors are for emissions, not how the engine runs, i traced them)

SaabGuy

OK I'm about 90% sure that my car is now fixed.

Thank god! It turned out that the 2 resistors inside the ECU (plus maybe some cold looking solder joints) was the whole problem. I cant believe it isnt cutting because I spent about 2 hours tracing those resistors to the Port Solenoid Valve which Im told does nothing.

Another mystery is why my ASV dont work, but oh well.

A little info on these 2 resistors. I read somewhere that if you adjust the TPS using bulbs, make sure you use very low wattage bulbs!! I used brake light bulbs (I think like 5-10 watts). The resistors are only rated for one, thats 1, watt. so my tps adjustment from long ago must have fried them, im not sure how but its all seemingly good.

Now I need to buy an Apexi SAFC to tune things up a bit! YEEHAW!!

HAILERS

Here's some stuff I said I'd furnish per pm:

HAILERS

Extra stuff:

HAILERS

Three:

HAILERS

VERY LAST:

HAILERS

Before Irv beats me to it, or Six Rotors, what happens when you use the wrong bulbs, is that you fry the transistors to the RELIEF SOLENOID VALVE and the SWITCHING SOLENOID VALVE. When you use the light bulb method witht the green test connector, you are observing the output to these two item i.e. turning them on and off with the adjustment of the TPS. The asv and that port air that you find broken are something that can be lived with easily. My asv has a broken wire right at the valve, but I still get my high rpm start up due to the bac being a integral part of the 3000rpm , 17 second duration startup. Except I only get about 2400 rpm instead of the 3000rpm. By the way, if you look at your wiring diagram and find the green tps connector, you see where it ties into the SWITCHING SOLENOID and the RELIEF SOLENOID, and from there you can figure what solenoid is turning on and off with which test light. Kinda trivia I reckon, but never hurt to take a look see.

HAILERS

Glad your car is fixed by ?????? whatever it was. I noticed when I put my gooder voltmeter on the car, I actually hit fuel cut at 3.6 volts instead of the 3.4 volts that the other @#*%^ voltmeter was reading. Thats a little closer to the graph on that fc3s site. Autometer still reads a hair from 10psi(lying mf)and the factory gauge pegs at the top. By the way, your factory gauge should head for the bottom when you start your car. But you know that. Right?

SaabGuy

Seems like the only fix I did was new resistors and resoldered some shady but not awfull looking things in the ECU.

The car seems to be running cleaner (less smell) and has a little more botom end pep. Go figure.

Jaared

i have the hks fcd and its doing the same thing.... same year car.

What should i check?!?