I am in need of bypassing completely the clutch security switch that allows the car to start as mine is on the fritz and not allowing the starter to engage when I ignite.

I have observed the space in the footwell where all the switches are and notice two switches on the clutch circuit. One is at the top and is engage when the clutch is pedal is in the out position; an the other switch is opposite and is only engaged when the clutch pedal is engaged (and that is a white plastic colored switch).

My questions is this...

IS IT THE WHITE PLASTIC SWITCH THAT I AM TO OVERRIDE AT THE ENGAGE SIDE OF THE CLUTCH?

AM ALSO CURIOUS TO KNOW FOR HOW MANY PEOPLE THIS FIX HAS BEEN SUCCESSFUL FOR? THANKS.

 

The Starter Interlock Switch will have a Black/Red wire and a Black/Green wire to it. Jumper these two wires and the switch is bypassed.

 

If you disable that switch it's best to get into the habit of leaving your car in neutral and the ebrake pulled to avoid jumping your car into something during startup.

 

I'd find out why your car is "on the Fritz",as you say.
Why would you want to Take out a Safety Feature Off the car??.This Move is a good way to Start an Accident.

 

Although my clutch switch is still installed/functional, I would hardly call it a "safety feature".
IMO, it's a helpmate for morons.
In 45 years of driving- and never having owned an automatic- I simply don't see the point in such a switch.
I wonder how many "accidents" were ever caused by the lack of such a nanny feature when manual transmissions were ubiquitous and who decided that the public was too stupid to ensure they were in neutral before trying to start the car.

 

I believe the upper switch the OP described that is depressed when the clutch is fully out is the switch that disengages the cruise control. For some reason this switch is also required for your shift light to work properly. The button on that switch lines up with a rubber button on the clutch pedal arm. The button tends to fall out, causing the button to go through the hole in the clutch pedal arm and not engage. When mine was not working right, I mistakenly ordered a new clutch pedal safety switch and if I recall correctly, it was only about $25-30. So if you want to get it working, it's not that expensive.

However, I agree with clokker that this kind of safety nanny device isn't really needed. I've never launched my wife's 1937 Packard through a wall by forgetting it was in gear when I start it.

 

Remove the interclock switch and check continuity. If not, replace it with a new switch from the dealer. There's no reason to un-idiotproof your car to save $20