Please help!
#1
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Please help!
When I pulled up to the light the other night, my car (89 gtu)was acting like the battery was going dead, the tach dropped to 0 and the interior lights starting cutting in and out.. and then it died. I pushed it off to the side of the road, and tried starting it again.. no go, I could hear it turning over, so I kept trying to get it to start, it backfired twice really loud, and then finally started. once it started it ran really rough,and the lights where cutting in and out again, anytime, I would turn on an interior lights, touch the sun roof power switch, turn on the headlights, change gears, release the clutch... it would die. I had it towed to Les Scwabb, and they have no clue what is wrong with it, it isn't the alternator, or the battery. I think it may be a voltage regulator? but other than that I have no clue.. the car is sitting over there, I had to walk over there yesterday, to have them take a look at it...
Anyways if you can think of anything please suggest it.. I am at my wits end with this car.
Matt.
P.S It has a new engine(less than 2 months old) new tranny(3 days old) new exhaust( less than 6 months old)...the battery is les than a year old as well.
Anyways if you can think of anything please suggest it.. I am at my wits end with this car.
Matt.
P.S It has a new engine(less than 2 months old) new tranny(3 days old) new exhaust( less than 6 months old)...the battery is les than a year old as well.
#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
What was the voltage when it is having problems? (you have a voltmeter right on the dash in the GTU).
Sounds like a bad alt to me from your description.
BTW: the voltage regulator is built into the alt.
Sounds like a bad alt to me from your description.
BTW: the voltage regulator is built into the alt.
#3
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Well, I hooked it straight up to a battery charger, and it still did the same thing. even on starting power... this is what lead me to believe that it isn't the battery or alternator.
#4
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
What was the voltage when it is having problems? (you have a voltmeter right on the dash in the GTU).
#6
I Raise Chickens
you need to do a thorough check of all the wiring to and from the alternator, battery and the master fuse. Im guessing its wiring. Youd be surprized, ive seen cars have weird problems like this and it turns out, i found rats had chewed through some of the wiring to the alternator. Good luck.
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#8
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I would have to say bad alt.! My 90 GXL did the same thing and it turned out to be the alt. If you can get it running check the voltage with a voltage meter at the alt.
#9
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So far every one has covered the + side.
Now check the grounds.
With the engine running & the headlights on- voltage drop from the alternator frame to battery neg should be near zero.
Now check the grounds.
With the engine running & the headlights on- voltage drop from the alternator frame to battery neg should be near zero.
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Originally posted by stock7
well, the reason I ruled out the alternator, is because I set the charger to starting power, and tried starting the car, basically off of wall power.
well, the reason I ruled out the alternator, is because I set the charger to starting power, and tried starting the car, basically off of wall power.
Originally posted by stock7
yeah, the fuse box is in place, thanks though. maybe someone else will be able to help...
yeah, the fuse box is in place, thanks though. maybe someone else will be able to help...
With all due respect, Icemark has some 9000 posts. I am sure I have read half and don't remember him ever giving bad advise. What he is telling you is sound advise. And also keep in mind that your trying to diagnose a car off the internet, not the simpelest of things to do.
#12
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by stock7
well, the reason I ruled out the alternator, is because I set the charger to starting power, and tried starting the car, basically off of wall power.
well, the reason I ruled out the alternator, is because I set the charger to starting power, and tried starting the car, basically off of wall power.
Barely enough to even crank the car over, well alone start it.
And if you have a completely dead battery (or a battery with bad cells), a charger is not going to put out enough to start it at all.
Maybe if you charged the battery overnight, and then hooked up the battery charger to crank mode and tried to start the car...
Last edited by Icemark; 12-17-03 at 11:01 PM.
#13
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Originally posted by Mr. Gadget
With all due respect, Icemark has some 9000 posts. I am sure I have read half and don't remember him ever giving bad advise.
With all due respect, Icemark has some 9000 posts. I am sure I have read half and don't remember him ever giving bad advise.
#15
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Originally posted by SureShot
Now check the grounds.
With the engine running & the headlights on- voltage drop from the alternator frame to battery neg should be near zero.
Now check the grounds.
With the engine running & the headlights on- voltage drop from the alternator frame to battery neg should be near zero.
#17
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Originally posted by stock7
Will an FD Alternator mount on the 89 gtu block? and would there be any advantage with going with one?
Will an FD Alternator mount on the 89 gtu block? and would there be any advantage with going with one?
Last edited by SevenGirl; 12-18-03 at 09:51 AM.
#18
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Originally posted by stock7
The battery was fully charged, when I tried starting it.. and it had the same results..
The battery was fully charged, when I tried starting it.. and it had the same results..
#19
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The alt is one of the easiest things to take off.
Take it off and take it to napa and have them test it for you.
This way you'll know its not the Alt.
And I second icemarks motion.
Your problem sounds like an alternator just decided to die out. But whatever. Could be your ground slipped off the firewall slip connector. Could be the chupracbra.
Good luck.
Take it off and take it to napa and have them test it for you.
This way you'll know its not the Alt.
And I second icemarks motion.
Your problem sounds like an alternator just decided to die out. But whatever. Could be your ground slipped off the firewall slip connector. Could be the chupracbra.
Good luck.
#21
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Ok Guys. It has been 2 months and I am still stuck.. Please Please Help. I replaced the alternator..Didn't help (Excellent support from Silverator Btw.) I also replaced the Leading and Trailing coils..Still no go. I Replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor.. So I had it towed to a shop. They tested the ECu, and told me it was bad. I ordered a New(Used) one that came out of a runnig 7... The car ran for 5 mins and then died.. The issue was with spark, the old Ecu was not sparking, and the new one did.. but now isn't. I did a continuity test from the ECu to the coils, and they passed. What Now?? Would putting the N351 Ecu, in place of ther N350 ECu cause this? I am at my whits end.. I seriously need help guys.
Thanks,
Matt.
Thanks,
Matt.
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As I keep saying: "Grounds get no respect."
I agree, sound like a ground to me. Check the grounds from the motor to the body, that is where the computer is grounded to(the body). You can run a temporary ground to the body yourself and see if that fixes the problem. If it does, then you can find tha actual one that has worked loos, or decayed to uselesness.
Leslie
I agree, sound like a ground to me. Check the grounds from the motor to the body, that is where the computer is grounded to(the body). You can run a temporary ground to the body yourself and see if that fixes the problem. If it does, then you can find tha actual one that has worked loos, or decayed to uselesness.
Leslie
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When I checked, the voltage at the Coils, I am getting a reading of 7 Volts. From everything that I have read, it should read 12V. if this helps at all. I am also Checking out the grounds.. Thanks.
#25
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stock7.....do you have a digital meter and more or less know how to use it? No sense in asking you to check anything if you don't have a meter. I'm not into the parts changing business when it comes to cars.
About grounds: The ECU is grounded on the top of the rear rotor housuing. The housing is a part of the engine. The engine has this hugemongous cable that runs from it to the negative terminal of the battery. That should be good enough, especially since that same cable is attached to the chassis just under the left strut tower. It ain't a ground problem unless the ground terminals on top of the rear rotor are not connected.
About grounds: The ECU is grounded on the top of the rear rotor housuing. The housing is a part of the engine. The engine has this hugemongous cable that runs from it to the negative terminal of the battery. That should be good enough, especially since that same cable is attached to the chassis just under the left strut tower. It ain't a ground problem unless the ground terminals on top of the rear rotor are not connected.