I posted all most of the info on Teamfc3s.org
I will add more info such as wiring diagrams and stuff. I will also edit the pictures so you know what you are looking at

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=27047

Justin

 

Um, this is all fine and dandy if the car floods all the time, but what if it doesn't?

The mod just made a perfectly running car impossible to start?



-Ted

 

not at all. it starts every time. I use it. even if the car isnt flooded. the car will start. The idea relies on the existing fuel pressure in the fuel lines to start the car then when you release the key into the ON position the fuel pump will turn on.

Also. even if there is no fuel pressure. Just crank the engine then release the key in the On position if it doesnt start. crank it again and it will start right up.

I know this for a fact cause I use it and it has happend to me.

Work Great. Exactly Like its supposed too.

Justin

 

A permanent fix is getting the injectors properly and professionally clean and flow tested to make sure they are serviceable.

 

Or an engine with better compression.
Good compression engines don't flood.

I've taken flooding injectors out of a flooding engine and put them into a new Mazda reman... never flooded once.
I've taken good injectors out of perfect compression engine and put them into a flooding engine... engine still floods.

Injectors are rarely the root problem, and cleaning them may help slightly, but generally, two things keep from flooding: Good cranking speed (froma good working starter and battery voltage) and good compression.

 

Thats why i got a 1000amp battery in my GXL. It'll crank the living daylights out of them rotors

 

While this may work now, it's still just a band-aid for a problem that'll just keep getting worse.

BTW, simply cutting one wire at the circuit-opening relay would have exactly the same effect. No extra relay or wiring required.

 

by no means permenant.. That swith might last more than a year btw :P

 

I had cleaned injectors (non-flooding) in my engine and it flooded EVERY time I started it, turned out engine needed a rebuild.

 

I dont know how long this relay will last. I knew if i got a relay from radioshack it would only last a few days. lol. But this one. the description about it said it would never get stuck or fail. That sold me. even tho NEVER is a strong word and some times not true. But if it last for as long as i need it great. So the "Permanent" part. is basically saying... PERMANENT as long as you need it....hopefully. I guess ill find out soon enough eh?

Justin

 

ya i had my injector cleaned at RCENG.com. they came back non-leaky. and the engine still flooded. I know its because the engine is warn out and needs a rebuild. which i will do sometime when i get a place and the money. but for now this "bandaid" should get me by.

Basically its another one of the OPTIONS someone can do. you can pull the fuse, or flip a switch, or take out the spark plugs, or disconnect the fuel pump connector, or use this relay method. What ever works for someone.. this is just an addon to all the other methods.

Justin

 

im thinking you are just joken around? lol. if im thinking right.... just cutting a wire..yes that would have the same effect. lol. but how would you turn the pump back on...

Justin

 

O ya. i just remember that mazdatrix has a T fitting that would eliminate the leaky injector flood problem too. so that is another option someone can take.

 

actually justin, it could also be a bad ECU. Particularly if it is a N332. They have a transister that fails and causes flooding if a {shudder} test light {shudder} was used to test things like the BAC and other outputs.

 

how can you tell if an engine is flooded by sound?

 

crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank

 

Really? I didnt know that. hm. I forget what number my ecu is but would you know....mine is a 88 se

thanks

 

You get to know the sound your engine makes when its flooded overtime. You get to know your car after awhile.

Justin

 

No joking. The fuel pump only runs if the engine is cranking or if the AFM registers airflow. If you look at the fuel pump wiring diagram you'll see that the fuel pump circuit opening relay has two coils that will close the switch; one fed from the start circuit and one fed from the AFM safety switch. If you cut the start circuit wire the pump won't activate until the engine catches (assuming it does).

Not that I actually recommend this as a fix of course...

 

I think its a great Idea, and for all you Naa sayers out there, their is a flaw in all the mazda rotory ecu's when voltage drops it floods the engine when trying to start it, ie after you shut down the car there is a battery drain for a short amount of time, then it regains its power as it cools down...Now I'm not saying all rotarys flood, mine rarley ever does, but it still does once in a blue moon, even a perfectly running rotary with good injectors and good compresion can still flood.
I mean just look at those RX8s, new cars off the lot and they still flood if not shut down properly.

With all that said most of the time you can de-flood a slightly flooded engine with just holding the gas pedal.

 

Now my question. You say the fuel pump doesnt turn on until the engine catches. Is this when the key is in the ON position? or while your cranking the engine? Sounds like it would only turn on when the engine is turning with the key is in the ON position which then would work pretty much exactly the same as my idea...

Eh. I wouldnt recommend that to people with S4s. Atleast it doesnt help my car any. I have a 88.

Justin

 

I think you've misunderstood what I posted. Normally the pump only runs if the engine is being cranked (key in START position) or if the AFM registers airflow. If you cut the start signal wire to the circuit-opening relay then the pump won't run during cranking. This is exactly the same as your set-up, except there's no relay or extra wiring reqiured. Just a pair of side-cutters...

 

then thud

*passing out from overwhelming smell of gas*

 

This discussion is old hat Out of curiosity, about two months ago while putting in a fuel cut switch, I depinned the BR (black/red) wire from the relay. THAT is the wire that causes the fuel pump to turn on when the key is HELD to ON.

My finding is that just the airflow thru the afm will make the switch in the afm *MAKE* and cause the fuel pump to run. You really don't need the BR wire, at least not on my cars.

Been there...done that

Bottom line.........the pump will pump when cranking the engine. Please see the wiring schematics in the fsm.

 

From my observations. The pump will turn on while the engine is turning or AFM reading air. So if you try to start the car and it doesnt start. When yuo release the key into the ON position and the engine is turning those last few turns from momentum which is sucking in air. The fuel pump will turn on at that time with this relay i hooked up. That is what i have figured out. So basically its not only while you crank the engine. Its while the engine is turning, pulling in air. and while the Key is in the START or ON Postion

hmm. hope im not confusing anyone. i think im confusing my self. but o well. its a convosation.

Not with my relay lol

Justin