lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

+1 Engagement is already 1000 Times better than stock (HDSS).

Roen

iTrader: (2)

+eleventymillion

You can buy an unsprung puck clutch, and pretend like you're a real man or something driving a clutch on the street that will enlarge your left calf muscle, especially when paired with an extreme pressure plate.

Or you can be sensible about it , ESPECIALLY SINCE YOU HAVE AN NA, there are no ports that really require anything more than a street disc, even peripheral ports don't provide enough torque to shatter a street disc, though they get into rpm limits; but that's another story for another time.

Stick with the HDSS, you can buy an extreme kit with an unsprung clutch, and come back here, and we'll be happy to say we told you so.

On a side note, an extreme pp with an unsprung clutch will kill hydraulics, pivot *****, and mounts.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

This is what I got when I last changed my clutch. I would never get it again, less that 1000 miles later fingers were broken off the pressure plate.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXEDY...spagenameZWDVW

wackaloo13

iTrader: (3)

what are peoples preferences for clutches over 500hp? exedy twin plate, exedy triple plate, os giken...?

Roen

iTrader: (2)

For single disc ACT clutches, you're in Xtreme PP and 6 Puck territory (Sprung or Unsprung)

multi-disc clutches I don't really have much experience with.

TitaniumTT

The Exedy twin I have claims to hold that and more. I don't know about feel or engagement first hand but I bought it because everyone I spoke to about it said it was as on par with the ACT HD PP with twice the holding. We shall see though. I'll only be putting down ~375-400RWHP but Exedy claims it'll hold much much more than that.

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

I bought the Centerforce "Stage 1" last summer for my SP NA. I was kinda pissed when i saw the EXEDY stamp on the disk, exactly like the stock disk that was already on the car. The PP looked to be different and included weird weights between the fingers that are suppose to increase the clamping force via centrifical force. Looked to be a crock of ****, but hey, Im in college and broke. For a bit over $200, Im happy with it. The feel is a bit stiffer than stock and it seems to be wearing okay (Should be the same wear characteristics as stock?)

I know the rep for Centerforce isnt the greatest, but I just couldnt afford an ACT of any spec. If I had to do it again, I think Id still get the centerforce. It hasnt done me wrong yet.

TitaniumTT

Centerforce sucks. You got an exedy disc becuase the centerforce stuff sucks. Centerforce sucks and they know it which is why they're using other peoples products. Centerforce sucks and you'll see what I mean in about 15k when the sucky clutch really starts to suck and then slips. If you're a poor college student you should've saved your money and bought a good part once rather than a sucky part once and then a good part.











Did I mention centerforce sucks?

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

Lol, good news is I still have my stock disk and PP in a box. It was kind of a spirt of the moment decision as only had so much money. I was a bit scared of putting the stock clutch back in with a really large street port and the whole intake, exhaust, ect. It was an end of the summer situation and I wanted the car back on the road before school started up. At the time, I really coundnt justify spending nearly twice as much on a clutch. Im not doubting the centerforce is below the competetors, but with an OE disk, what would cause it to fail so early? The PP looks stirdier than stock, or at least made of heavier materials. I dont doubt its not the greatest, just in my price range at the time (Emphasis on the fact that $200 difference would have broken me at the time! Part time jobs and rebuilds dont mix.)

Roen

iTrader: (2)

I got a used S5 Centerforce Dual Friction PP/Clutch for $200 if you ever want to replace a sucky product with another sucky product

Evil Aviator

I disagree. The CFDF clutch worked great on my TII, and Pettit used it on their 550hp Banzai 20B FD conversions. What sucks is the skill (or lack thereof) of most of the people on this forum who try to install the CFDF themselves. However, I do agree that there isn't much point to the Centerforce I and II clutches given the competition.

Companies that suck do not tend to win the SEMA/PWA Manufacturer of the Year Award or have their founders inducted into the Hall of Fame.

TitaniumTT

I have no experience with the Dual Friction clutches so I can't speak about them. I was talked into the II when I was in college ~ a decade ago and needed a clutch. The thing ******* SUCKED so I never went back to where I bought it or to centerforce. I've heard otherpeople talk about the I's and II's though and it all seems to be the same - waste of time/money.

Although - if the dual friction can hold 550 RWHP worth of 20b - that kinda says something

farberio

iTrader: (7)

My current Rx has a centerforce clutch and it is teh suck. It was in the car when I got it. The Pedal feel is much lighter then stock and I am counting the days till I replace it.

On my old RX I bought a clutchmasters OEM replacement kit and it felt great.

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

This makes me wonder if my clutch is example of how this stereotype isnt true, or if its just a matter of time. At least it came with a 1 year warranty

tytemf5

iTrader: (9)

im about to do a turbo swap and am wondering about clutches myself. it will be a 13bt to na tranny, so i will need an na clutch and flywheel. i plan build her up to hopefully 350hp, so which combination would be best? act? exedy?

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Read the 3 pages already. It's not that difficult to find the conclusion:
Cliffnotes
It'll handle everything you're trying to do at those power levels.

russianmob

iTrader: (3)

Get stage 4 clutch masters...............waiiiit, you are stock? get stock then.

Evil Aviator

For 350hp you should really use the TII driveline.

TitaniumTT

^+1.

@ 350 RWHP you should try to figure out what the flywheel torque is. I'm not entire sure if the ACT HDSS will hold that much. You MAY be into the ext PP range at that point.

Lax is right - read the three pages but I'll say it again. There is no reason to get more clutch than you need unless you enjoy driving a car around that most people hate to drive (puck clutches) I spent more than 2x on a USED Exedy twin disc setup than I would've spent on a puck clutch to hold to power I'm expecting to have.

Step 1) - Determine torque
Step 2) - Go to ACT's website and find the package with the Street disc that has > torque rating than you are making
Step 3) - Buy clutch

SpooledupRacing

ok I am comming in late but here is my .02

what I changed above is ALL that matters when picking out a clutch.

IMO ACT is prolly the best however it is PRICEY...

in the past on other non rotary cars I have used

Exedy
Sachs
ACT
Spec
Valeo

and many more..

my favorites for an rx7 would be

Exedy (for STOCK feel and application)
Spec (for stiffer feel and a bit more grab.. CAN USE ON STOCK CAR)
ACT (only spend the money on a RACING clutch with ACT IMO.)

Now for your car I would go with a Spec stage 2 or 3.. This clutch will give u good pedal feel (a bit stiffer then stock, 3 will be much stiffer then stock) it will hold the extra ponies you have on your car and most of all they are relaiable and known to last)

tytemf5

iTrader: (9)

lol thanks guys. id be otherwise stock if i threw another na into my car, but im throwing a turbo... thanks for the input anyways...