Pennzoil. Anyone have fouling probs?
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Pennzoil. Anyone have fouling probs?
I did another experiment using Pennzoil. It is fouling the plugs and does not seem to burn properly which is causing power lose.
Has anyone else here have similar results?
Has anyone else here have similar results?
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I just had some pretty damn fouled plugs, and I run pennzoil, but I haven't run anything different for comparison, so I can't really claim that it's the pennzoil's fault
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Experiment: A test under controlled conditions that is made to demonstrate a known truth, examine the validity of a hypothesis, or determine the efficacy of something previously untried.
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One of my good friends used to build race spec 7's for Frey Racing. We spoke about Pennzoil additives. He explained that Pennzoil additives acts like synthetics. He concluded that fouling problems will occur. So, again I tested that therory. And soon enough, the fouling problem began after 400+miles. I also did notice that the burn rate is very low compaired to Castrol GTX, Redline, Kendall, and brand X (Walmart special).
We also talked about the O2 sensor coating problem associated with these types of oils. They can also attibute to incorrect readings.
Well, I will be changing my O2 and oil. Going back to Castrol GTX or Kendall (if I can find it).
I am still hoping to find someone with actual facts.
We also talked about the O2 sensor coating problem associated with these types of oils. They can also attibute to incorrect readings.
Well, I will be changing my O2 and oil. Going back to Castrol GTX or Kendall (if I can find it).
I am still hoping to find someone with actual facts.
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Originally posted by RestoTII
I just had some pretty damn fouled plugs, and I run pennzoil, but I haven't run anything different for comparison, so I can't really claim that it's the pennzoil's fault
I just had some pretty damn fouled plugs, and I run pennzoil, but I haven't run anything different for comparison, so I can't really claim that it's the pennzoil's fault
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#9
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Originally posted by jmseven
Experiment: A test under controlled conditions that is made to demonstrate a known truth, examine the validity of a hypothesis, or determine the efficacy of something previously untried.
Experiment: A test under controlled conditions that is made to demonstrate a known truth, examine the validity of a hypothesis, or determine the efficacy of something previously untried.
Did you dump the oil in the gas tank or are you assuming the the plug fouling is caused by the oil through the MOP/OMP...
How long does it take the plugs to foul? Are you using new plugs each time or just cleaning the fouled plugs?
How much oil/1000miles are you burning?
I've run pennzoil for a couple changes with no issues. Maybe your car is running richer than normal.
#10
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Originally posted by jmseven
I also did notice that the burn rate is very low compaired to Castrol GTX, Redline, Kendall, and brand X (Walmart special).
I also did notice that the burn rate is very low compaired to Castrol GTX, Redline, Kendall, and brand X (Walmart special).
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Originally posted by deadRX7Conv
Explain your experiment.
Did you dump the oil in the gas tank or are you assuming the the plug fouling is caused by the oil through the MOP/OMP...
How long does it take the plugs to foul? Are you using new plugs each time or just cleaning the fouled plugs?
How much oil/1000miles are you burning?
I've run pennzoil for a couple changes with no issues. Maybe your car is running richer than normal.
Explain your experiment.
Did you dump the oil in the gas tank or are you assuming the the plug fouling is caused by the oil through the MOP/OMP...
How long does it take the plugs to foul? Are you using new plugs each time or just cleaning the fouled plugs?
How much oil/1000miles are you burning?
I've run pennzoil for a couple changes with no issues. Maybe your car is running richer than normal.
400-600 miles aprox
Burn rate:
3000 miles > 1/2 quart
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it's using the same measurements and though it may not be accurate, if you do the tests enough and keep most of the variables the same, it should give you a reasonable estimate of what's happening. I don't know if the amount of oil it burns has much to do with spark plug fouling, because you aren't measuring the amount injected, but if you get consistent results that Pennzoil fouls plugs quicker than Brand X, then it might mean something, but probably not too much
#15
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I try to be as open minded as possible
I don't think your experiment is anything special.
Assuming 20mpg, 1/2 quart of oil for 3000 miles is too lean to cause issue. 3000/20=150gallonsfuel*128=19200ounces of fuel used with only 16 ounces of oil. The ratio is 1200:1 fuel to oil. Geez, I run OMP with additional premix of 256:1(various oils) and never had plug problems.
But, I also change my plugs yearly as normal maintenance and my car runs perfectly. I did lose plugs when the 02 sensor quit(90k miles) and when the MAF quit(94k miles). Plugs looked like they were covered in oil. In my case----Not the oils fault. But, definitely confused ECUs fault when sensors puke.
BUT(always buts with me):
Weak spark/cold plugs seem more of a problem. Maybe the pennzoil is aggravating an issue that you will have in the future. The 10w30 doesn't seem to be much different than any other 10w30. The pennzoil 20w50 rivals the synthetics flash point compared to other 20w50s. See the link. So, don't use the 20w50.
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
Again, I believe that plug fouling could be caused by not driving aggresively enough(proof is your low oil consumption) or taking frequent short trips. Your car is a '90. It has electronic OMP(could be failing). I believe that it uses a stepper motor. Haven't dissected one. Other than leakage and seal blow by(possible with different oils), the oil consumption should be the same with just about any oil. Driver input due to rpm and throttle position is what controls the MOP and fuel/oil ratio. Maybe the MOP is about to fail and the other oils seep/leak past the seals better. Maybe not.
Assuming 20mpg, 1/2 quart of oil for 3000 miles is too lean to cause issue. 3000/20=150gallonsfuel*128=19200ounces of fuel used with only 16 ounces of oil. The ratio is 1200:1 fuel to oil. Geez, I run OMP with additional premix of 256:1(various oils) and never had plug problems.
But, I also change my plugs yearly as normal maintenance and my car runs perfectly. I did lose plugs when the 02 sensor quit(90k miles) and when the MAF quit(94k miles). Plugs looked like they were covered in oil. In my case----Not the oils fault. But, definitely confused ECUs fault when sensors puke.
BUT(always buts with me):
Weak spark/cold plugs seem more of a problem. Maybe the pennzoil is aggravating an issue that you will have in the future. The 10w30 doesn't seem to be much different than any other 10w30. The pennzoil 20w50 rivals the synthetics flash point compared to other 20w50s. See the link. So, don't use the 20w50.
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
Again, I believe that plug fouling could be caused by not driving aggresively enough(proof is your low oil consumption) or taking frequent short trips. Your car is a '90. It has electronic OMP(could be failing). I believe that it uses a stepper motor. Haven't dissected one. Other than leakage and seal blow by(possible with different oils), the oil consumption should be the same with just about any oil. Driver input due to rpm and throttle position is what controls the MOP and fuel/oil ratio. Maybe the MOP is about to fail and the other oils seep/leak past the seals better. Maybe not.
#16
Rotary Freak
Quacker state and Pennzoil , I am told are wax base oil and do not lube well and any mechanic will know they build up alot of sluge if not changed often .Garfinkle has shown this to me ,what a mess ,its not for me.
#17
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Originally posted by duboisr
Quacker state and Pennzoil , I am told are wax base oil and do not lube well and any mechanic will know they build up alot of sluge if not changed often .Garfinkle has shown this to me ,what a mess ,its not for me.
Quacker state and Pennzoil , I am told are wax base oil and do not lube well and any mechanic will know they build up alot of sluge if not changed often .Garfinkle has shown this to me ,what a mess ,its not for me.
#19
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Originally posted by BigWoogie
Dude, penzoil is the absolute worst oil, next to that is quaker state. Go buy some Valvoline
Dude, penzoil is the absolute worst oil, next to that is quaker state. Go buy some Valvoline
#20
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The PENZOIL QUAKER STATE controversy as been going on for decades.
Simple solution: Ditch/disable/remove the OMP and run pre-mix, then you run synthetic (Pick your poison) in the crankcase. {Sorry S5 guys, unless you run a Haltech or other EMS this option does not apply}
Simple solution: Ditch/disable/remove the OMP and run pre-mix, then you run synthetic (Pick your poison) in the crankcase. {Sorry S5 guys, unless you run a Haltech or other EMS this option does not apply}
#21
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#22
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If you read the maxima.org forums oil analysis results, it shows that the Valvoline dino and synth do not hold up well with miles on them in comparison with other oils. The Pennzoil did OK. Not sure if anyone used the QS, but same company(bad assumption).
To me, that is credible evidence. Regardless, as long as any oil is fresh, it works. One reason that I change my oil/filter before 2000miles. Any more than that is abuse since we usually don't have the synthetic option.
Just because someone claims a controversy, oils constantly change. We went from SA to SL oils in the past 40+ years. Still trying to figure out what happened to SK oil(must be registered). Oil jumped from SJ to SL.
Btw, Electronic MOP can be removed and allowed to dangle for ECUs happiness. Or, you could also tap the oil fill neck and allow the MOP to inject oil back into the pan. Just a thought.
To me, that is credible evidence. Regardless, as long as any oil is fresh, it works. One reason that I change my oil/filter before 2000miles. Any more than that is abuse since we usually don't have the synthetic option.
Just because someone claims a controversy, oils constantly change. We went from SA to SL oils in the past 40+ years. Still trying to figure out what happened to SK oil(must be registered). Oil jumped from SJ to SL.
Btw, Electronic MOP can be removed and allowed to dangle for ECUs happiness. Or, you could also tap the oil fill neck and allow the MOP to inject oil back into the pan. Just a thought.
#24
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Originally posted by banzaitoyota
That is an option for the OMP
So far all I can find on QS and penzoil is anectodal evidence.
That is an option for the OMP
So far all I can find on QS and penzoil is anectodal evidence.
Sorry, had to do that. Seems that everyone gets the info from the same source.
I almost bought that book. Think of it as a dictionary. Lots of definitions. The oil info comes from .pdf's available from the oil companies. I didn't see any actual comparisons/long term oil analysis from brand to brand like the maxima.org analysis. Now I gotta scrounge the fleamarkets/yard sales to see if I can find it again.