2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
Sponsored by:

PD question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-19-05, 07:23 PM
  #1  
Junior Member

Thread Starter
 
im nodnarb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Shawnee, Oklahoma
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
PD question

i was just curious...would a bad PD cause fuel to run down the bottom side of the engine and drip like crazy off the oil pan?
Old 01-19-05, 07:53 PM
  #2  
Lives on the Forum

 
RETed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: n
Posts: 26,664
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes on 16 Posts
YES.


-Ted
Old 01-19-05, 08:14 PM
  #3  
Junior Member

Thread Starter
 
im nodnarb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Shawnee, Oklahoma
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
i'm definitely a newbie...so here goes. how does one go about testing/changing a PD? i'm at college, so its difficult to get to tools and workspace being 14 hours from home sometimes. any suggestions would be greatly aprpeciated.
Old 01-19-05, 08:23 PM
  #4  
N/A is teh WIN!

 
onePOINTthree's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Center of your palm, MI
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
you really shouldnt need more then a adjustible wrench and some new crush washers to replace it one you get to the fuel rail, you can eather locate a banjo bolt that dosent use a PD or find another used one and replace it
Old 01-19-05, 08:26 PM
  #5  
I am 2Furious

 
gingenhagen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NJ / Philly
Posts: 846
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
To test/replace your FPD, you need to remove the upper intake manifold (and intercooler if you have it). For tools, all you need is a socket with 12mm, 10mm, and 8mm. And pliers and silicon grease to take off all those vacuum tubes (and silicon hose if you want to replace them at this time). Then you can replace your FPD with a new FPD or a banjo bolt (12 mm X 1.25").

If you like, and you have a N/A, you can do the Marren FPD retrofit (found in the 2nd gen. archives). Leaking fuel is very serious and the cause of many car fires. For more info, search for "FPD" or "fuel pulsation dampener".

If you're a total total newb (like I was), and you're looking for a pictoral guide to removing the upper intake manifold (on a S4 turbo), look no further than my signature. I make car work fun!
Old 01-19-05, 08:28 PM
  #6  
Junior Member

Thread Starter
 
im nodnarb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Shawnee, Oklahoma
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
i remembered something weird too...the fuel doesnt start leaking until the car goes through its warm up cycle. it revs to about 1500 and then when it drops to 750 or so is when the fuel starts leaking...

thanks onepointthree...hopefully i can find the leak tomorrow
Old 01-19-05, 09:35 PM
  #7  
Ga-nome liberator

 
SnowmanSteiner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Hell
Posts: 1,990
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Why would you remove a component of your fuel system which is there to keep your car from leaning out it certain conditions? Why would you replace that component with one of the same quality that is prone to the same failure? http://www.injector.com/fueldampers.php Replace it with a better unit that doesn't have the same characteristic failure as the stock ones.

- Steiner
Old 01-20-05, 12:09 AM
  #8  
Rotary Supremacist

iTrader: (1)
 
LizardFC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Maryville, TN
Posts: 2,909
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I've heard good things about the Marren FPD, but damn, 114 bucks!? Banjo bolt the beotch
Old 01-20-05, 02:00 AM
  #9  
Rotary Enthusiast

 
rs_1101's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: OC
Posts: 1,088
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
PD is easy easy easy to replace. i recommend getting a 91 style fuel rail. if your really ghetto.. just buy an in line FPD from any auto parts store. same difference.
Old 01-20-05, 03:49 AM
  #10  
Rotary Freak

 
Syonyk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Ames, IA
Posts: 2,718
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by im nodnarb
i remembered something weird too...the fuel doesnt start leaking until the car goes through its warm up cycle. it revs to about 1500 and then when it drops to 750 or so is when the fuel starts leaking...

thanks onepointthree...hopefully i can find the leak tomorrow

AAAAK! You're RUNNING the engine with a massive fuel leak? You do realize the exhaust manifold rapidly gets hot enough to ignite fuel?

I suggest not doing this anymore until you fix the leak.

One thing you can do to help locate the leak (though it's very likely the pulsation damper) is pressurize the system with the engine off. Once the intake manifold is off (shouldn't take more than an hour or so, even with labeling the lines) turn the ignition on (but don't crank the engine). On the passenger's side near the firewall, there's a yellow connector. Jumper the two connections to turn the fuel pump on, and the system will build pressure. You should easily be able to tell where the fuel is coming from.

Also, if you want, I have a S4 pulsation damper laying around (has a year or two on it, but is in good shape, and the plastic hasn't even begun to yellow). PM me, I'm looking to get rid of it cheap.

-=Russ=-
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
_Tones_
Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS
10
05-25-21 05:37 AM
Nosferatu
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
7
09-05-15 02:13 PM



Quick Reply: PD question



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:46 AM.