PD question
#3
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i'm definitely a newbie...so here goes. how does one go about testing/changing a PD? i'm at college, so its difficult to get to tools and workspace being 14 hours from home sometimes. any suggestions would be greatly aprpeciated.
#4
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you really shouldnt need more then a adjustible wrench and some new crush washers to replace it one you get to the fuel rail, you can eather locate a banjo bolt that dosent use a PD or find another used one and replace it
#5
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To test/replace your FPD, you need to remove the upper intake manifold (and intercooler if you have it). For tools, all you need is a socket with 12mm, 10mm, and 8mm. And pliers and silicon grease to take off all those vacuum tubes (and silicon hose if you want to replace them at this time). Then you can replace your FPD with a new FPD or a banjo bolt (12 mm X 1.25").
If you like, and you have a N/A, you can do the Marren FPD retrofit (found in the 2nd gen. archives). Leaking fuel is very serious and the cause of many car fires. For more info, search for "FPD" or "fuel pulsation dampener".
If you're a total total newb (like I was), and you're looking for a pictoral guide to removing the upper intake manifold (on a S4 turbo), look no further than my signature. I make car work fun!
If you like, and you have a N/A, you can do the Marren FPD retrofit (found in the 2nd gen. archives). Leaking fuel is very serious and the cause of many car fires. For more info, search for "FPD" or "fuel pulsation dampener".
If you're a total total newb (like I was), and you're looking for a pictoral guide to removing the upper intake manifold (on a S4 turbo), look no further than my signature. I make car work fun!
#6
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i remembered something weird too...the fuel doesnt start leaking until the car goes through its warm up cycle. it revs to about 1500 and then when it drops to 750 or so is when the fuel starts leaking...
thanks onepointthree...hopefully i can find the leak tomorrow
thanks onepointthree...hopefully i can find the leak tomorrow
#7
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Why would you remove a component of your fuel system which is there to keep your car from leaning out it certain conditions? Why would you replace that component with one of the same quality that is prone to the same failure? http://www.injector.com/fueldampers.php Replace it with a better unit that doesn't have the same characteristic failure as the stock ones.
- Steiner
- Steiner
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#9
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PD is easy easy easy to replace. i recommend getting a 91 style fuel rail. if your really ghetto.. just buy an in line FPD from any auto parts store. same difference.
#10
Originally Posted by im nodnarb
i remembered something weird too...the fuel doesnt start leaking until the car goes through its warm up cycle. it revs to about 1500 and then when it drops to 750 or so is when the fuel starts leaking...
thanks onepointthree...hopefully i can find the leak tomorrow
thanks onepointthree...hopefully i can find the leak tomorrow
AAAAK! You're RUNNING the engine with a massive fuel leak? You do realize the exhaust manifold rapidly gets hot enough to ignite fuel?
I suggest not doing this anymore until you fix the leak.
One thing you can do to help locate the leak (though it's very likely the pulsation damper) is pressurize the system with the engine off. Once the intake manifold is off (shouldn't take more than an hour or so, even with labeling the lines) turn the ignition on (but don't crank the engine). On the passenger's side near the firewall, there's a yellow connector. Jumper the two connections to turn the fuel pump on, and the system will build pressure. You should easily be able to tell where the fuel is coming from.
Also, if you want, I have a S4 pulsation damper laying around (has a year or two on it, but is in good shape, and the plastic hasn't even begun to yellow). PM me, I'm looking to get rid of it cheap.
-=Russ=-
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