amhorach

I'm picking up a white '91 in a month or so, and I'm going to have to paint it. I'm confortable doing the work myself (knowing I'll get a better paint job than Macco but not exactly professional), but I've got a question I've not been able to answer.

I'm pretty darn sure that the '91s were still using lacquer based paints. Is this in fact the case?

Also, has anyone had any luck at all using urethane based paints over lacquer? I know the right way to do it is to strip off any laquer and start over, but if anyone has ever taken the short cut and is willing to share their thoughts, it would be appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

RAWRX7

I've never painted over Lacquer but what i would suggest is to use the Aircraft Stripper and spray it on the car. Bam now you have no more Lacquer on the car. You can get it in Gallon containers so you can pour it in your gun and spray it that way let it sit for 5 to 10 min and you got bare metal.

rglbegl

You are fine just sanding like crazy and painting over the Lacquer.
Obviously if you wanted a super nice, super long lasting paint job, you wouldn't be looking in to doing it yourself. So for your purposes it would be easiest to just sand, fill any holes or dents, sand, primer if you wanted, then paint.


Going to bare metal is the best, but then you need some rust inhibitor that goes on IMMEDIATELY, (no joke, you got minutes before rust starts to go to work) And the primer coat needs to be done really well. blah blah blah


Have you ever painted a car before?

YaNi

iTrader: (2)

No manufacturers were still using lacquer based finishes in the 90's. If your car is sprayed with a lacquer, you will need to sand down to bare metal. Lacquer's expand with temperature, and you will eventually have adhesion problems.

amhorach

Yes, but only once, and not by myself. I've done multiple body parts (fenders, etc) and blended them into the existing paint by myself.

Since the finish on the car is already toast, I'm using this job as an exercise in improving my skills. I'm not expecting a perfect job, but leaving the rust spots and such on the car is only going to lead to more problems down the line.

And yes, I realize that if I botch the paint job getting it done by a pro at a later time will likely cost more than if I went to a pro in the first place, but then I wouldn't be learning anything.

I was under the impression that the paint used on those cars was an acrylic lacquer. If not, what kind of paint was used?

Thanks again!

rglbegl

If you want it to look perfect for the next 50 years, then go all the way to metal and get all the right materials and supplies to make it perfect.


But to answer your question - You would be just fine by sanding the crap out of it, then painting over the existing paint. (which will be mostly gone after sanding)
It will look good enough for long enough to keep most people happy.

LogicFoxX

iTrader: (2)

Hey rglbegl, what do you recommend for a good lasting and good finish if you started from bare metal? If you don't me asking.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

it was acrylic enamel, single stage

rglbegl

I haven't worked at a body shop in many years.
I have a local paint supply shop that has all the goods there.

From bare metal though, you are going to want a nice layer of some good primer. If you are going off of a previously painted car . . . you kinda use the old paint as the primer. But when starting from metal, you will need any good sealant or primer to make sure you dont get eaten from the inside out.

amhorach

On bare metal I've always used self etching primer (one thin coat) then two coats of regular sandable primer since you want it thick enough to take a wet sanding.

Thanks for the replies. The paint not being lacquer makes it a bit easier.