Paint-prep S4 Block
01-01-10 | 12:56 PM
#1
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,007
Likes: 1
From: Washington, PA
Paint-prep S4 Block
Hi guys. I have an S4 block in my basement I just pulled apart for inspection prior to rebuilding it. The housings and irons spec out fine so I'm gonna re use them. Now, the last time I rebuilt an engine I just cleaned off most of the grease and gunk and slapped it together. This time I want to paint the housings and irons. What is the best way to clean the parts in preperation for paint? I was thinking about using SOS pads because it will clean and scuff the surface at the same time, but don't know how they will fare against engine grease. Any tips?
01-01-10 | 08:42 PM
#2
Hi guys. I have an S4 block in my basement I just pulled apart for inspection prior to rebuilding it. The housings and irons spec out fine so I'm gonna re use them. Now, the last time I rebuilt an engine I just cleaned off most of the grease and gunk and slapped it together. This time I want to paint the housings and irons. What is the best way to clean the parts in preperation for paint? I was thinking about using SOS pads because it will clean and scuff the surface at the same time, but don't know how they will fare against engine grease. Any tips?
01-02-10 | 10:41 AM
#3
^
nice avatar 12AllWays. If you're gonna copy; copy the best...
Step 1) Remove 20+ years of gunk. I duct tape all the ports so that water + crud doesn't get in and degrease and power wash the keg.
Step 2) Simple Green, Scotchbrite pad, and stainless wire toothbrush. Go over every nook and cranny and clean the remaining gunk out. The scotchbrite will also scuff the surface so the paint adheres.
Step 3) Wax + grease remover & alot of paper towels. Wipe down the entire engine a couple of times (until the paper towels are clean).
FYI The typical rattlecan engine paints cure by heat, so they scratch pretty easily until you get the engine back in the car and fired up.
Take your time and it will look good and last.
nice avatar 12AllWays. If you're gonna copy; copy the best...Step 1) Remove 20+ years of gunk. I duct tape all the ports so that water + crud doesn't get in and degrease and power wash the keg.
Step 2) Simple Green, Scotchbrite pad, and stainless wire toothbrush. Go over every nook and cranny and clean the remaining gunk out. The scotchbrite will also scuff the surface so the paint adheres.
Step 3) Wax + grease remover & alot of paper towels. Wipe down the entire engine a couple of times (until the paper towels are clean).
FYI The typical rattlecan engine paints cure by heat, so they scratch pretty easily until you get the engine back in the car and fired up.
Take your time and it will look good and last.
01-02-10 | 06:08 PM
#4
On the fasttrack!
iTrader: (22)
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,494
Likes: 2
From: virginia beach, virginia
i used a sandblaster with a medium grit glass media. you have to soak the engine plates and housings in chemdip for like a day or two, then use a toothbrush to get out anything thats left over. you have to wipe off all the chem dip, thats where i use simple green. but i was prepping for powdercoating.
hers the way mine turned out
Lloyd
hers the way mine turned out
Lloyd
01-02-10 | 09:21 PM
#5
if you are going to go the through the sand blasting method I would recommend using baking soda instead of sand. The sand pits the actual irons and housings. Baking soda has the same power as sand but it doesn't pit the parts and it cleans them amazingly. It's also eco friendly, and you can buy a bag on ebay for $50 bucks. Good luck cleaning your parts.
01-02-10 | 09:45 PM
#6
Full Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Hickory, North Carolina
^ nice avatar 12AllWays. If you're gonna copy; copy the best...
Step 1) Remove 20+ years of gunk. I duct tape all the ports so that water + crud doesn't get in and degrease and power wash the keg.
Step 2) Simple Green, Scotchbrite pad, and stainless wire toothbrush. Go over every nook and cranny and clean the remaining gunk out. The scotchbrite will also scuff the surface so the paint adheres.
Step 3) Wax + grease remover & alot of paper towels. Wipe down the entire engine a couple of times (until the paper towels are clean).
FYI The typical rattlecan engine paints cure by heat, so they scratch pretty easily until you get the engine back in the car and fired up.
Take your time and it will look good and last.
nice avatar 12AllWays. If you're gonna copy; copy the best...Step 1) Remove 20+ years of gunk. I duct tape all the ports so that water + crud doesn't get in and degrease and power wash the keg.
Step 2) Simple Green, Scotchbrite pad, and stainless wire toothbrush. Go over every nook and cranny and clean the remaining gunk out. The scotchbrite will also scuff the surface so the paint adheres.
Step 3) Wax + grease remover & alot of paper towels. Wipe down the entire engine a couple of times (until the paper towels are clean).
FYI The typical rattlecan engine paints cure by heat, so they scratch pretty easily until you get the engine back in the car and fired up.
Take your time and it will look good and last.
01-02-10 | 10:01 PM
#7
On the fasttrack!
iTrader: (22)
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,494
Likes: 2
From: virginia beach, virginia
if you are going to go the through the sand blasting method I would recommend using baking soda instead of sand. The sand pits the actual irons and housings. Baking soda has the same power as sand but it doesn't pit the parts and it cleans them amazingly. It's also eco friendly, and you can buy a bag on ebay for $50 bucks. Good luck cleaning your parts.
Lloyd
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