Pacesetter Headers make you LOSE power over stock Manifold????
#1
Thread Starter
I came, I saw, I boosted.
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
Pacesetter Headers make you LOSE power over stock Manifold????
Just wondering if anyone else has solid data on this...
I have a pacesetter header, and I noticed a marginal increase in high end power- that's all. Not enough power to justify the noise.
A guy in the Canadian Forum (Yup.. I'm Canadian) Says he had a bare 12A on a bench dyno (not chassis- no car!) WIth the stock manifold- it made about 100 HPstock. With RB headers, it made 120, and with Pacesetter, it made 90!!! It LOST 10 HP!
Just wondering if anyone else has noticed this happen to them or not!!
The pacesetter headers are not equal length, I think this is the bad part.
I did notice a bit more power with mine though... but not much... maybe I should switch back to stock manifold and to a few runs to compare!
I have a pacesetter header, and I noticed a marginal increase in high end power- that's all. Not enough power to justify the noise.
A guy in the Canadian Forum (Yup.. I'm Canadian) Says he had a bare 12A on a bench dyno (not chassis- no car!) WIth the stock manifold- it made about 100 HPstock. With RB headers, it made 120, and with Pacesetter, it made 90!!! It LOST 10 HP!
Just wondering if anyone else has noticed this happen to them or not!!
The pacesetter headers are not equal length, I think this is the bad part.
I did notice a bit more power with mine though... but not much... maybe I should switch back to stock manifold and to a few runs to compare!
#6
My RB one just got in the mail!! Go to http://www.thepartstrader.com/adlayo...3&Display=Full
Half-way down the page, RB header and presilencer for $210. Hope this helps!
Half-way down the page, RB header and presilencer for $210. Hope this helps!
#7
Yes the Pacesetter is a complete pile of ****, unless you spend a lot of time grinding out all of the flashing in the collector, after which it becomes slightly less of a pile of ****, because you still haven't fit it to the car (need more grinding and drilling) and when you're done you basically saved $50 but spent an additional 3 hours of work compared to RB. And you still make less power.
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#11
do the header tubes NEED to be equal length? i dont see how you could make this happen, since the front rotor is about 4-6" ahead of the rear rotor (not sure on measurement) what does it matter anyhow, the Exhaust manifold sure as hell isnt equal leength. what about the people running true duals ?? i thikn that would just throw the "equal length" idea out the window.
if it doesnt matter that the tubes arent equal, ill buy a cheap *** pace setter, cut the turd off the end, and weld on my own collector. think of the noise and flames then: header w/ a GOOD collector, gutted cat, 60mm pipe, and a single Apex N1...
chris
if it doesnt matter that the tubes arent equal, ill buy a cheap *** pace setter, cut the turd off the end, and weld on my own collector. think of the noise and flames then: header w/ a GOOD collector, gutted cat, 60mm pipe, and a single Apex N1...
chris
#12
I wouldn't be surprised. I have their cheap *** cat-back exhaust and it has a problem where the y-pipe is that actually would increase back-pressure. check out this pic:
Last edited by MasteRX; 03-10-02 at 03:44 AM.
#14
If you're planning on making your own full dual system, the 1st-gen header is 2-piece. The last 6 or so inches (the collector) bolt on to the rest of the header. It *should* fit the 2nd gen about as easily as it fits a 1st-gen...
#15
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 379
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From: NJ
i have a pacesetter header .. i got it for 90 bucks new from carparts.com with a 33% off coupon . i noticed an increase in power , its gotta be much better than the stock manifold. i also had no problems with the fit , it bolted right in . also the pacesetter header also bolts up to the main cat . i have emissions in nj so i couldnt get the racingbeat with presilencer header b/c that bolts straight to the y-pipe . so thats why i went with a pacesetter and a high flow cat . does racing beat or mindtrain make a header that will bolt up to the main cat ? i couldnt find one at the racingbeat website . when this header expires i'll go with something better , but we've had threads like this before , your either for pacesetter or against it . from experience i can say that it does add power . granted it may not give you as much power as a RB or Mindtrain , but like someone previously said ..."you get what you pay for" . for $90 bucks new .. i cant complain . sorry it was kinda long .
#16
Thread Starter
I came, I saw, I boosted.
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
My header fit perfectly fine- and the collector doesn't have any restriction in it. It's two tubes coming in parallel, side by side, welded together- with a larger one over it like a sleeve, which contracts ni about 6 inches to 2 1/2 inch where the flange is- there's no pipe angles or superfluous metal instide the collector- it's totally different from the one I had on my onle 1st gen- with 2 bent pipes, like the reverse of the previous cat-back pic.
I wonder- I'll check to see if that guy who dyno'd the 12A with the headers on it had the collector on it or not.
Oh- about equal length- If you look at the RB header, the rear rotor tube is bent up and down a few times to add length- this makes them equal length.
You WANT that- because it syncronizes the alternating exhaust pulses down the exhaust tube so that they are exactly opposite from each other- so they are not travelling in one "lump" down the tube, and also, the previous pulse can actually "pull" the pulse behind it out of the exhaust- the scavanging effect that make so much power on a perfectly tuned exhaust.
Dual exhuast never merge, so it doesn't matter is they are not equal length or not.
The header is damn cheap, but if I were planning on keeping my car N/A, I definately would have gone with RB.
I wonder- I'll check to see if that guy who dyno'd the 12A with the headers on it had the collector on it or not.
Oh- about equal length- If you look at the RB header, the rear rotor tube is bent up and down a few times to add length- this makes them equal length.
You WANT that- because it syncronizes the alternating exhaust pulses down the exhaust tube so that they are exactly opposite from each other- so they are not travelling in one "lump" down the tube, and also, the previous pulse can actually "pull" the pulse behind it out of the exhaust- the scavanging effect that make so much power on a perfectly tuned exhaust.
Dual exhuast never merge, so it doesn't matter is they are not equal length or not.
The header is damn cheap, but if I were planning on keeping my car N/A, I definately would have gone with RB.
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