oxygen sensor
05-14-02, 05:18 PM
#1
Passenger
Posts: n/a
oxygen sensor
GOd , NOTHINg ever goes right, i try to put on a air flow ratio meter, and what do you know, i just ***** up to. Ok so i've got a good ground adn a good positive, but as soon as i touch it to the o2 sensor wire, it goes blank, well...... So i called guess-a-meter, adn they just tell me to buy there o2 sensor, well.... that didn't help. right now and im not a big fan of spending money so i called the local speed shop where i had purchased it, They said to drive around untill it warmed the sensor up, but this did not help either, going down the road i pulled the sensor wire off, and i had a light. well, so i have got the problem down, but i don't know why it is like this, the sensor is brand new bosch one, just a week old, could it be bad? or could it be something else?
05-14-02, 05:33 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: san francisco,Ca
Posts: 327
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
how long did u drive around for? it takes a while for that thing to heat up and start working. try hopping on the freeway or sumthing. my friend had the same problem and he kept fukin with it (ie tapping wires, finding new grounds) and then he gave up and just left it alone. then he said he was cruising around and all of a sudden it started working. hope this helped.
05-14-02, 05:45 PM
#3
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Chris, where are you connecting the A/F gauge’s signal wire? At the O2 sensor or the ECU? The cable in the engine bay is shielded and tapping into it can cause problems if you short the shield to the wire. It should be connected at the ECU to avoid this problem.
BTW, the O2 sensor should get to operating temp after about 5 minutes of driving.
BTW, the O2 sensor should get to operating temp after about 5 minutes of driving.
05-15-02, 05:44 AM
#6
Greek Power
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Greece
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The signal wire in the engine bay is shielded ? Never knew that...actually my wire in the engine bay is halfway exposed already (dont know why), and in a very tight spot (so I cannt do anything with it until I remove a bunch of things). You think maybe it is killing my readings on the O2 sensor ?
05-15-02, 05:57 AM
#7
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
20 Posts
NZ is saying that there might have been the possibility that someone , if making the connection in the engine bay, would accidently let one of the strands of the grounded shield, touch the center conductor when doing his splice job. The o2 wire when new, was a grey shielded wire. Its probably a brown or tan shielded wire now after all these years. The shield is terminated approx six to eight inches prior to pin 2D at the ECU. From where the shield is terminated, the center conductor continues that last six to eight inches to the ECU. A shielded wire is a wire with a metal braid around the center conductor. The metal braid is grounded. Prevents EMI from interfering with the low voltage output of the 02 sensor.
Trending Topics
05-15-02, 06:09 AM
#8
Greek Power
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Greece
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by HAILERS
NZ is saying that there might have been the possibility that someone , if making the connection in the engine bay, would accidently let one of the strands of the grounded shield, touch the center conductor when doing his splice job. The o2 wire when new, was a grey shielded wire. Its probably a brown or tan shielded wire now after all these years. The shield is terminated approx six to eight inches prior to pin 2D at the ECU. From where the shield is terminated, the center conductor continues that last six to eight inches to the ECU. A shielded wire is a wire with a metal braid around the center conductor. The metal braid is grounded. Prevents EMI from interfering with the low voltage output of the 02 sensor.
NZ is saying that there might have been the possibility that someone , if making the connection in the engine bay, would accidently let one of the strands of the grounded shield, touch the center conductor when doing his splice job. The o2 wire when new, was a grey shielded wire. Its probably a brown or tan shielded wire now after all these years. The shield is terminated approx six to eight inches prior to pin 2D at the ECU. From where the shield is terminated, the center conductor continues that last six to eight inches to the ECU. A shielded wire is a wire with a metal braid around the center conductor. The metal braid is grounded. Prevents EMI from interfering with the low voltage output of the 02 sensor.
Just wanted to check. My mechanic says that the ECU doesnt throw any errors at all, and the O2 is working like a charm anyway, so.....I do need new plugs though.....there go 120 Euros
05-15-02, 03:40 PM
#10
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Originally posted by chris-reed
does you o2 have to be connected to the engine?
does you o2 have to be connected to the engine?
05-16-02, 01:39 AM
#11
Passenger
Posts: n/a
ok, cruise and light throttle, I got the guage to work simply by plugging in the o2 sensor wire to the guage wire, it's not connected to the ecu, but during cruise and light throttle the guage does not show anything, no l.e.d.s at all. but when you mash the gas or let off it "comes on" WTF
05-16-02, 02:50 AM
#13
Greek Power
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Greece
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by chris-reed
Ace or somebody please help me out here!
Ace or somebody please help me out here!
Anyway, the A/F meter *should* work like this:
a) when cruising, the LEDs should light up and down constantly, as the ECU tries to compensate and adjusts the A/F mixture some 15-20 times per second (I dont know the exact sampling rate of the ECU. maybe someone can help)
b) when WOT, 8 out of the 10 LEDs (or 80% of whatever measuring scale your A/F meter has) should light up. That means that the ECU is locked into "closed-loop", and disregards the readings from the sensor. The mixture is now always rich (or at least the ECU tries to make it rich
), to prevent detonation.c) when decelerating, there should be almost no LEDs lit. The ECU is now making the mixture very poor, because the engine is not making any power, so fuel is not actually required to prevent detonation or make power.
What exactly do you mean "comes on" ? How many LEDs does your AF have, and how many light up under different circumstances ?
05-16-02, 02:55 AM
#14
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by chris-reed
ok, cruise and light throttle, I got the guage to work simply by plugging in the o2 sensor wire to the guage wire, it's not connected to the ecu, but during cruise and light throttle the guage does not show anything, no l.e.d.s at all. but when you mash the gas or let off it "comes on" WTF
ok, cruise and light throttle, I got the guage to work simply by plugging in the o2 sensor wire to the guage wire, it's not connected to the ecu, but during cruise and light throttle the guage does not show anything, no l.e.d.s at all. but when you mash the gas or let off it "comes on" WTF
-Ted
05-16-02, 03:05 AM
#18
Greek Power
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Greece
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Either the car is running on the poor side all the time, the sensor or the signal are not what they should be, or the A/F meter needs adjusting for your car. These are the possibilities....I say you should use a digital voltmeter and check the O2 sensor and the signal, and then take it from there....
05-16-02, 03:20 AM
#22
Greek Power
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Greece
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by chris-reed
The o2 sensor is a 17 dollar discount auto parts piece? could this be the problem?
The o2 sensor is a 17 dollar discount auto parts piece? could this be the problem?
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/o2sensor.html
And somewhere on the net there is the complete voltage readings for the O2 sensor, but cannt find it now....I'm sure someone will tell us
05-16-02, 03:52 AM
#25
Lives on the Forum
Something is wrong...
You tried seeing if the ECU spits out any error codes?
At WOT it sounds normal, but at idle and light-load cruising, it's looks "broken".  I would've blamed a bad connection somewhere, but the WOT test shows SOME lights, so that can't be it.  The only other possibility is that you have a ground problem somewhere.  You might want to try and ground the O2 sensor body, but crimping on some kinda connector to a piece of wire and using a screw-type hose clamp to attach it to the O2 sensor body.  Run the other end to a known good ground and see if this helps anything...
-Ted
You tried seeing if the ECU spits out any error codes?
At WOT it sounds normal, but at idle and light-load cruising, it's looks "broken".  I would've blamed a bad connection somewhere, but the WOT test shows SOME lights, so that can't be it.  The only other possibility is that you have a ground problem somewhere.  You might want to try and ground the O2 sensor body, but crimping on some kinda connector to a piece of wire and using a screw-type hose clamp to attach it to the O2 sensor body.  Run the other end to a known good ground and see if this helps anything...
-Ted