gxlbiscuit

well my engine is overheating.. because its spouting all the coolant out...none of the water is leaking in the engine and i can start the engine prefectly and it idles perfectly. It doesnt give off any smoke. Performance is perfectly normal except if you cruise at 80-90 mph you will have to pour the resivior back into the engine after 30 miles. when i drove 55 i got over 50 miles. sounds like a bad coolant seal. i think i have a super small leak that acts like a valve compression out no water in. is there anywhere the intake could be leaking compression?... all my TB coolant lines are bypass.. i bypassed the turbo coolant lines and it still did it(i put them back). can i rebuild the engine with just new coolant seals?

kungfuroy

iTrader: (6)

I got lost in there. To clarify things are you leaking anywhere you should not? Or is it that your overflow bottle just gets filled up?

If you are sure you are not losing any coolant in the combustion chambers, check your hose connections and make sure they seal properly. You may have a tiny leak/hole somewhere that is sucking up air when it should be sucking up coolant back from the overflow bottle.

gxlbiscuit

sorry im only leaking at the bottle ...... the car is just an overgrown super soaker... i have installed a new mazda thermostat, fan clutch, water pump, and radiator.

jhammons01

Sorry, but did you buy a new cap?? Could be it's not holding any pressure and the coolant is just boiling out.

gxlbiscuit

caps plural even the mazda cap i have run a 16lb too.... still a squirt gun ...

Stanello

iTrader: (1)

I've got the same thing, except I dont let mine overheat. I'm currently running a cored thermostat and saving for a rebuild. So, yes, probabley coolant seals. You can do the coolant seal test to be sure. Pull the EGI Comp fuse, take the radiator cap off and have someone else crank it over. If you see bubbles or have coolant flowing out, start your own rebuild fund.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

pull the motor and tear it down, blown seal and no way for any of us to tell you whether it is as simple as a blown seal, an iron seal wall broken or a damaged rotor housing coolant jacket.

YearsOfDecay

Yes. most likely you are pressurizing the coolant system by compression getting into the coolant system. HOPE for a bad seal and not a broken water channel in the front housing..

If its just the seals... you can get away with a "Soft Seal Kit" And re-use all the hard parts.. but, i'd at least put apex seals in it while you have it apart.

Get the Bruce T video from www.rotaryaviation.com and watch the whole thing before you decide what you are going to do. he lays everything out pretty well in it.

gxlbiscuit

i have the video i rebuilt this engine works tops but umm water water everywhere and not a drop to drink... it really pisses me off that i dont get water in the engine. that test doesnt work on my car i can let her idle forever and wont get a drop of water.. but soon as i put the car under load above 3000 i think it starts to bubble and become an issue. i can pull over and the water bottle be filled to the brim and not giving me one bubble even though it filled the bottle up under load. there is no where in the intake were water can be pressurirzed? i dont have any UIM cooling