Jobro

iTrader: (2)

Hi,

I just got a S5 FC3S TII transmission put in my 1st gen RX-7. The box needs to come out again because the shifter ends are very worn for 3/4 and 5/r and cause me to change into the wrong gear. This has proven VERY dangerous on my first outing at the drag strip as I accidentally changed into 4th gear (instead of 2nd) and nearly killed myself.

Anyhow...

The TII transmission in my car is from Japan and has the crappy 0.806 5th gear. If I can get a 0.719 5th gear put in my gearbox when I fix the shifter ends I can change to a faster rear end ratio for drag racing, yet still keep excellent rpm for my drives to work @ 62mph.

I have the part number from the 91-92 FC3S parts fiche.

[17-611] R523-17-610 but has been superseded by R524-17-610 apparently.

Anyway is that the only part I need? How big a job is it to get that deep into the gearbox. I know I can change the shifter ends myself but I'm not sure about how deep in there 5th gear is.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

You'd need the countershaft and 5th gear, along with a rebuild kit for the TII transmission. The TII is significantly easier to rebuild than the smooth case NA transmission, but it's not a walk in the park.

FYI, the countershaft will be expensive.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the 5th gear on the counter shaft is separate, R524-17-308.

so you need the two gears, and probably the synchro as well. the .719 gear set eats synchros, its too big of a drop

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Oh yeah, it is splined on separately. I forgot that part

Jobro

iTrader: (2)

I'm not so worried about the 5th gear synchro. I will just slow down my changes into 5th gear.

Hey thanks for the posts. I did find out somewhere else about the countershaft cog also. In terms of getting in that deep. Are we talking about 2 hours of trained mechanic labour or more? From what I've read I wouldn't be attempting to change the cogs.

Do I 100% need the rebuild kit? If its extra work I'm not really concerned about getting bearings changed 'for the sake of it'. The issue with the transmission is the shifter ends and doesn't have any noticeable bearing sounds. I'm not worried about transmission sounds until its noisier than my exhaust.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

2 hours for a slam bam job, about 6 if you're a picky **** and clean everything like me(i hate slamming together things with many very important small moving pieces..).

there is no kit, the TII parts are pieced together from mazda so just order the 5th gear, counter gear, 5th gear syncro and the rear bearing, rear counter bearing is optional but the rear main bearing has a high chance of getting fubar during disassembly.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

+1. I can do it in 3-4 hours, including the trans RnR you should buy the synchro, and yeah that's a good point about the bearings, its tricky to get em out without damaging them, and as long as you're at Mazda, buy the 2 nuts too, they get staked down.

5th and reverse are separate from 1-4th so you don't rebuild the whole trans to change 5th.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

and while you're at it order a 1/2 gate return spring that sits on the shift arm under the shifter itself. if it's more than a few years old save yourself the headache and spend the $6.

john ward

iTrader: (7)

Yes..... I need to do my spring one day. I was waiting till the syncros started to go. I've built plenty of ax4n 4l60 604's (gotta love that radiator) but am kinda weary of opening up my first standard.

Jobro

iTrader: (2)

I've got plenty of good spare return springs. I've got about 3 or 4, and 1 car to use them in.

Points noted on the bearings that will be damaged.

The minor overhaul is getting a bit sillly. Its starting to look like it will cost as much as the transmission cost.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

only way around it is good usable parts. find someone with the gears, all series of turbo transmissions are almost identical in many ways within the gear sets so you can get parts from the FD trannies to fit as well.

it's always a pain to get into these transmissions as the rear bearings need to be pulled off and even in some cases heated with a torch to release from the main shaft. the counter gear bearing i usually don't have any issues with and the nuts i just restake. the new rear main bearing i usually will ream out a few thousandths so it slips onto the main shaft easier and subsequently much easier to remove next time around, ie no more destroying it to get it off and the new bearings are sealed but the old series 4 and some series 5 had open bearings.