Once again, back from the track, and very disappointed......
#1
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Once again, back from the track, and very disappointed......
Well, this on-going quest for 15's still hasn't gone my way yet. I went to the track tonight and got about 10 runs. The best of them all, is whats in my sig now. I just cant cut that 60' time down to save my life. Can I pleeaasse have some tips for getting that 60' time in the 2.1xx-2.2xx territory....?
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haha....very funny u @#$@#!$%^@#%^@#$^ jk man
Anyway, how many of you guys get wheel hop on aggressive launches? Just wondering if its cureable too.....
Anyway, how many of you guys get wheel hop on aggressive launches? Just wondering if its cureable too.....
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#9
I dont know a damn thing
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you need to lower your psi in your rear tires to around 25 or 24 and when the third yellow comes up you need to drop it...you will not redlight well maybe 1 out of 10 times but that is the best way for your reaction and 60footer...your reaction has no meaning in your quarter time it just tells you how slow your fat *** got off the line a 2.0 60 is a number to shoot for this was in my friends 86 base and i run a 2.2 60 in my 88 gtu but ive only raced my car 5 times im sure ill be seeing the 2 flat range when i get my clutch....hehe
#10
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Has your motor been rebuilt? How's the compression in the motor (any leaks anywhere...exhaust???). If the cars in good condition you should be running MUCH better than that. Then again it could be just practice time, I'm not trying to sound rude, but you know what I mean. All of can use practice that alone will drop your times.
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Originally posted by rico05
Stiffer rear springs will help the wheel hop. What kind of reaction time did you have?
Stiffer rear springs will help the wheel hop. What kind of reaction time did you have?
Lower your tire pressure in the rear to about 20#.
Stay OUT of the waterbox- it gets in the tread and kills your traction. Drive around the water, and do a SHORT burnout to clean the tires.
I get about equal results feathering the clutch (slipping it to keep rpm up- hard on the clutch) and dumping it at about 5k rpm. I also run right around a 2.3 60 ft... but in a 3000+# convertible with a high 3.9 differential without limited slip. You should be able to do better than that due to lighter weight and better gearing.
Brad
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p.s. don't shift at the buzzer. I shift at 7600-7800. (Do this at your own risk, you COULD hurt your car, i.e. blown motor.) You appear to be doing ok with the shift ranges you are using, since you have about 2 mph more than I get... but I run 16.1 at 85 mph with a 2.31 or so 60' time.
Brad
Brad
#14
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Yo,
I just went to the track. Best I did was a 16.004. I'll have to look at my timeslips for 60' times, etc. Like you, I really wanted to break into the 15's. But hey, with 1300cc's, what can ya do? *grin*
I was launching at 4000-5000rpm. I got no wheel hop, I'm thinking because my 6 ports are wired open. Not enough torque to get it started. Heh.
KS
1989 GTUs "Still not meant to drag race..."
I just went to the track. Best I did was a 16.004. I'll have to look at my timeslips for 60' times, etc. Like you, I really wanted to break into the 15's. But hey, with 1300cc's, what can ya do? *grin*
I was launching at 4000-5000rpm. I got no wheel hop, I'm thinking because my 6 ports are wired open. Not enough torque to get it started. Heh.
KS
1989 GTUs "Still not meant to drag race..."
#15
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i went 2.0 in my base on 17s. 205s at that. but try to lower your tire pressure some. and come off the line harder. people think im dum. but i launch between 5 and 6. and it does spin alittle but as soon as it stops its ready to slam it in to second. and i went 2.0 consistent that way. just practice launchin and shiftin man
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For all those that asked, mainly, I am gettin a ton of wheelhop. My tire pressure was about 32lbs. I am runnin 225/50/15 Kuhmo's in the rear. I do have an exhaust leak that I can fix with a gasket, I just havent bothered to get it yet. The motor has never been rebuilt, and I dont even know what compression is like.
#19
I wish I was driving!
Originally posted by rx7_ragtop
Stay OUT of the waterbox- it gets in the tread and kills your traction. Drive around the water, and do a SHORT burnout to clean the tires.
Brad
Stay OUT of the waterbox- it gets in the tread and kills your traction. Drive around the water, and do a SHORT burnout to clean the tires.
Brad
As for the tiny amount of water left in your tires after centripetal force spins it out during your burnout, it will evaporate with the heat in your tires from the burnout while you're staging.
But I agree, a short burnout is all that is needed.
#20
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I'd just say get it tuned and running right. I picked up .2 by fixing my exhaust leak that was right behind the exhaust manifold. I guess it needed that backpressure
If your engine has higher miles its probably losing compression too. If youve ever taken apart a N/A engine you can see that the stock oil injection system slowly causes a lump of carbon buildup right behind the apex seal. Slowly but surely, this high spot of carbon scores the housing causing it to lose compression. Only a matter of time before it goes .. stupid Mazda
If your engine has higher miles its probably losing compression too. If youve ever taken apart a N/A engine you can see that the stock oil injection system slowly causes a lump of carbon buildup right behind the apex seal. Slowly but surely, this high spot of carbon scores the housing causing it to lose compression. Only a matter of time before it goes .. stupid Mazda
#21
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Yo,
Okay, I got the best time slip out of my drag runs:
Dial-in: 16.00
Reaction: .560
I1: 2.261
I2: 6.719
I3: 10.321
MPH (I3) 67.905
I4 13.415
E.T.: 16.010
MPH: 87.647
Over/Under .010
M.O.V. .850
Needless to say, with a .010 Over/Under...I got to the next round. *grin*
1989 GTUs, RB Downpipe/Presilencer, HKS 50mm exhaust, 6 ports wired open, K & N cone. 140rwhp.
Drag racing is not my forte, neither is it my cars. *grin*
Kevin
1989 GTUs "Happy Dale? I put my real name!"
Okay, I got the best time slip out of my drag runs:
Dial-in: 16.00
Reaction: .560
I1: 2.261
I2: 6.719
I3: 10.321
MPH (I3) 67.905
I4 13.415
E.T.: 16.010
MPH: 87.647
Over/Under .010
M.O.V. .850
Needless to say, with a .010 Over/Under...I got to the next round. *grin*
1989 GTUs, RB Downpipe/Presilencer, HKS 50mm exhaust, 6 ports wired open, K & N cone. 140rwhp.
Drag racing is not my forte, neither is it my cars. *grin*
Kevin
1989 GTUs "Happy Dale? I put my real name!"
#22
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Oh yea, and if its been an AZ car for a few years, you can probably bet on the EGR leaking causing a vacuum leak. The heat isnt very kind to rubber
Have you checked spark plugs to see if its running rich or lean latley?.
Yea as for the launch, I think your just gonna have to be mean to your clutch and slip it some more. It should get rid of the wheel hop at least.
Whered you race at.. Firebird?
Have you checked spark plugs to see if its running rich or lean latley?.
Yea as for the launch, I think your just gonna have to be mean to your clutch and slip it some more. It should get rid of the wheel hop at least.
Whered you race at.. Firebird?
Last edited by 88 SE; 11-07-02 at 07:16 PM.
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Scathcart,
I agree with Brad, unless you're running drag radials, you don't need or want the water. The tread is going to trap water that's going to drip down onto your launch surface... A quick spin is all I do when I drag
race the trans am..
PaulC
I agree with Brad, unless you're running drag radials, you don't need or want the water. The tread is going to trap water that's going to drip down onto your launch surface... A quick spin is all I do when I drag
race the trans am..
PaulC
#25
Super Newbie
Yes, even if you spin the rear tires to clean the water, the front tires are carrying water for you to run over and pick back up.
I always tell the track worker not to spray the hose, because here there isn't enough room to drive around the water box.
I always tell the track worker not to spray the hose, because here there isn't enough room to drive around the water box.