CyberPitz

I've replaced the unit itself, put new seals on the inside, and it still leaks. This brings me to two conclusions. The screws which injects the oil/gas mixture are the cause of the leak. Or perhaps the two screws that go to the body, are stripped out some and are THERE causing the leaks.

When I feel for the oil, it seems to pool most around the bottom of the oil injector screws, so I suspect them. Now here's a question. Do I need to have "gasket sealer" anywhere near/on the screws to stop leaks? I've taken some pictures, let me illustrate. This is a pretty large picture, so you people can determine if anything looks fishy...*this is 50% the size it ACTUALLY is. D:*



I do have individual pictures of each screw, if you want them as well. Another question is,. the big orange gasket, do I need to put gasket sealer on that? I don't know, this is exactly what they look like when I unscrewed them. Well, except for them drenched in oil, of course. I bought some thread sealer along with gasket to put on ANYTHING just in case....so please, help?


Please, I don't want to know if you prefer the block off plates more than just screwing with the OMP. I know they would be easier than this, but as of right now, I don't have the tools/time/anything to do that at the moment. Please, only constructive posts for this. I hopefully want to have this fixed today...

CyberPitz

Well, I think I found the problem out...when I unscrewed the buttom/front bolt to the OMP...there were metal shards IN the freaking threads...so apparently it's just a bad inside there. I put thread sealer on there, and am going to test it out in a bit *how long does it take for that to dry, now?* and if that's the true case, then ....well...this is my 2nd OMP, doing the exact same thing. ><

AllMotorRotor

If those threads are bad, you may have to buy a heli coil thread repair kit. I used one kit and its very easy.

Thread sealer wont work. If the bottom bolt is not threading correctly, then the omp o-ring is not sealing to the front cover correctly causing it to leak.

CyberPitz

Now, the threads that are coming apart are the ones on the OMP itself, not the threads at all...would that "heli coil thread repair kit" fix that? And if so, what do you have to do to use it? Do you just swab it in there, let it try, then screw the screw in?

Never heard of a thread repair kit.

AllMotorRotor

I thought you were talking about the bolt under the OMP that bolts the OMP to the front cover.

If you are talking about one of the four injector holes being stripped then you need to get another OMP, you can't fix those threads since any goop you may use to fix the threads may clog up the oil inlet hole. Drilling and threading a hole will require a larger banjo bolt and drilling out the oil injector line fitting to fit the larger banjo bolt. Drilling and tapping the hole may also allow the oil inlet hole to become larger or actually break through into the distribution cylinder area.

The Heli coil repair kit consists of a Threader of the right size, and heli coils. They look like springs. You then get the drill bit of the appropiate size and redrill the hole, thread it, insert the spring and your done.

I would read up online on heli coil repair kits and rethreading just so you can learn how to do it correctly

CyberPitz

Well, I guess I'll just get another OMP, but the only other one I have, is on another 7, but the bolt to the body is freaking stripped so I can't get it off. ><

--MAstermind--

vacuume caps Auto zone

OMP plate with hardware
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...ROD&ProdID=103

pipe plug
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...PROD&ProdID=51

JUSTICE! no more issues

OH and use this instead of motor oil....

http://www.imotorcyclestore.com/prod...X02MOU800&pt=L

it leaves NO DEPOSITS IN THE ENGINE we tested it as compared to "super tech" or OTHER brands the Motul left 0 caked in deposits... all we needed was one blast from the brake parts cleaner and A CLEAN rotor surface appeared no wire wheel, no scratching the surface CLEAN amazing product...

you stated u wanted a constructive post... i gave you info, and LINKS to get what you need .... at your rate id probly go this route if i where you youll get some solid life with that setup... OH and i added 1 ounce of motul per gallon of fuel...

i wish ya the best of luck either way ya go!!!!

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

makes me wanna do it

VacavilleFC

ok the "orange gasket" your referring to is a copper crush washer just like the ones still on the bolts, they all need to be replaced there a single item. order them from mazdatrix they have both.

order another pump, order the rebuild kit from pineapple racing, order the copper crush washers from mazdatrix. Fixed

AllMotorRotor

Did you not read his entire post? He doesn't want to remove the OMP. He is SMARTER then that.

Abou your test, can you release the specs of the engine before and after using the oil?

The link didn't work, is that motor oil or 2 stroke. You say to use it instead of motor oil, im guessing its 2 stroke but he wouldn't use motor oil for premixing anyways so im guessing you mean to swap out his conventional oil with whatever oil you are linking to.

--MAstermind--

now now... I didn't say i PREFER them i said it would be his best bet at this point because either way hes going to need to A: waste gas driving to get one off of some rotary punk locally (since his other one seems to have minor damage OR B: Acquire one off of someone on the boards and pay shipping at the MINIMUM if they are giving one to him for good will unless they are an angle and happen to pay shipping AND give him the good condition OMP..... Mazda's oil metering pump system is decent system when functioning correctly (besides the E-shaft oil bypass pellet deal... not so good..) so i don't believe i fall into the former category thanks.

ill upload the pics offa the cam sometime this week as i have been formulating my thesis on the matter because i know how cruel and unusual the boards can be... but i assure you the motul full 2 stroke synthetic is amazing for sure...

I was not biased on the matter nor was i pushing the anti omp movement... i said well GOOD LUCK EITHER WAY YOU GO HOPE YOU GET THE CAR RUNNING.... thus leading me to believe that my original post prove true GRANTED i lacked in informing him that the M800 motul was a 2stroke oil although with the first 2 links... u can safely assume that I'm talking about premixing... either way assuming is usually not the best thing and im sorry for missing that info!

again either way GOOD LUCK and sorry for the essay I'm just tired of forum knights trying to over analyze and protect the innocent.

take care!

AllMotorRotor

You still have to pay the price for the plates and pay for shipping for them.....

Good used OMPs are easy to find. Most of the time you do not need to fully rebuild them with the kit from pineapple racing. New crush washers and you should be set.

Too bad I experimented to much with 2 spare OMPs I have, otherwise I would have sent one to him probubly for free + shipping. They are ruined now though

CyberPitz

I understand, and soon, if I get frustrated enough, I might take you up on that...but as of right now, I'm still hoping to get this one fixed, because then I don't have to worry about, "Oh ****, did I forget to put the 2-stroke in there?" But I guess if I do end up going that route, just a quick question. Which way does the oil/gas flow? Is the OMP the start of the process, or the end of it? If I put the blockoff plate there, can I just..leave the wires dangling? Or do I need to clog them up with gasket or something?

Thanks for all the help, man. I appreciate it. I'm going to get a small pair of vice grips today, and see if I can get the screw off the other OMP, since I don't truely NEED it on my good car, I'm not worried about it. I just wish I wouldn't have this problem...it's just so frustrating. Haha. I will update today if I can get that screw off. if this fails, and I can't find another good OMP...I might take someone up on that blockoff plate. I've been dealing with this thing for a good 4 months. ><

CyberPitz

Since I can't edit my previous post....

Is there another blockoff plate for under the UIM, or do I just clog the lines somehow?

AllMotorRotor

For the oil injectors? Just use the right sized bolt and crush washer.

coxxoc

iTrader: (3)

You can have my spare OMP. Give me a call at 417 317 1818. If you bring your stripped bolts, we can match them up to some of the same size to replace it with.

I live in Joplin.

Josh

AllMotorRotor

ding ding

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

im think ima go with premix soon!

CyberPitz

See, my bolts aren't stripped. It's the holes on the OMP. I unscrewed the injector screws, and on THOSE threads, were metal from the inside of the omp.

I called and left a vm Coxxoc