OMP Installion, Starting problems
03-26-06, 05:25 PM
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OMP Installion, Starting problems
i just finished my OMP installion. It started up fine, but it idles at like 4500k. Then i turned it off, and it didnt start up so i compression started it. It turned on after the compression start, but now it idles at 300 rpm, and I have no power at all.
It gets boost but really ertically. The previous owner capped off alot of vaccum lines, and I dont know where they go. I vaccumed all the four oil injectors, do they go into the one between the two oil injectors by the passenger side? Im stumped and need some ideas, could it be my vaccum lines?
It gets boost but really ertically. The previous owner capped off alot of vaccum lines, and I dont know where they go. I vaccumed all the four oil injectors, do they go into the one between the two oil injectors by the passenger side? Im stumped and need some ideas, could it be my vaccum lines?
Last edited by importedboi; 03-26-06 at 05:28 PM.
03-26-06, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by eriksseven
He was running premix and just swapped in an OMP system. 
Also my car is gutless, there is no power what so ever, and it sounds like it is about to die, and it also sounds like its only running on one rotor.
03-26-06, 11:00 PM
#5
Originally Posted by importedboi
Erickseven is correct.
Also my car is gutless, there is no power what so ever, and it sounds like it is about to die, and it also sounds like its only running on one rotor.
Also my car is gutless, there is no power what so ever, and it sounds like it is about to die, and it also sounds like its only running on one rotor.
03-26-06, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by eriksseven
Huh... Compression test? That doesn't sound good at all... How long has it been running like this, minute-wise? Did you just take it around the block or something?
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03-27-06, 12:15 AM
#8
Originally Posted by importedboi
I drove it around the block for a good 10-12mins. Ill do a compression check tomorrow. What could have caused it though because it was prefectly fine when premixing? Also i wont start up normally now, i always have to compression start it now.
If you need any help and can't figure it out, I could help you...
To lay it out: The worst case scenario is that somehow your motor blew... This is unlikely because the only variable that changed was the fact that you installed the OMP setup. You wouldn't have blown your motor though, from hooking it up wrong and driving for 10 minutes--simply because your gas (in the tank) was already premixed and I doubt a motor would seize after only 10 minutes without lube... Let's just hope you have a major vac. leak somewhere.
Did you remember to hook up the fat brake-booster line behind the UIM? (on the firewall?)
03-27-06, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by eriksseven
Hmm... That's really weird. So, when you FIRST started it, were there any issues? Like, did you drive it around when it was acting all funky, wanting to die, running on 'one rotor' or whatever. OR, was it after you drove it around for a bit that it started acting up...?
If you need any help and can't figure it out, I could help you...
To lay it out: The worst case scenario is that somehow your motor blew... This is unlikely because the only variable that changed was the fact that you installed the OMP setup. You wouldn't have blown your motor though, from hooking it up wrong and driving for 10 minutes--simply because your gas (in the tank) was already premixed and I doubt a motor would seize after only 10 minutes without lube... Let's just hope you have a major vac. leak somewhere.
Did you remember to hook up the fat brake-booster line behind the UIM? (on the firewall?)
If you need any help and can't figure it out, I could help you...
To lay it out: The worst case scenario is that somehow your motor blew... This is unlikely because the only variable that changed was the fact that you installed the OMP setup. You wouldn't have blown your motor though, from hooking it up wrong and driving for 10 minutes--simply because your gas (in the tank) was already premixed and I doubt a motor would seize after only 10 minutes without lube... Let's just hope you have a major vac. leak somewhere.
Did you remember to hook up the fat brake-booster line behind the UIM? (on the firewall?)
Ill go in order.
Start up perfectly fine besides the fact that it idles at 4500k, drove around for like 3mins, normal engine power and everything.
Turn it off to see if my throttle was stuck. It wasnt stuck, and also to change the engine oil
Crank it didnt start up.
Compression Start it, and fired right up but now it idles at like 400rpm or less, now it is gutless.
Pulled it apart agian to check whats wrong, found nothing besides some capped off vaccums, try starting it again, didnt fire so we compression started it, fired up.
Drove around for 10mins, its gutless, but builds boost normally.
I would really appreciate it if you came over to come and help me out with it.
I also did hook up that big line behind the the UIM
03-27-06, 03:09 AM
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Sorry to minor hijack..
But the top two OMP lines that go on the top of the engines on my car don't really have vacuum lines running to them...two part question
1) Would this be considered a vacuum leak? I mean technically, I pull 20 before the Supercharger and 15 after the Supercharger which from my previous experiences is normal.
2) Do the OMP lines have to vacuum going to them, or is specifically for the S4's? What happens if I DONT have the vacuum lines going to them, should I run out side and fret and start throwing vac hoses on them?
But the top two OMP lines that go on the top of the engines on my car don't really have vacuum lines running to them...two part question
1) Would this be considered a vacuum leak? I mean technically, I pull 20 before the Supercharger and 15 after the Supercharger which from my previous experiences is normal.
2) Do the OMP lines have to vacuum going to them, or is specifically for the S4's? What happens if I DONT have the vacuum lines going to them, should I run out side and fret and start throwing vac hoses on them?
03-27-06, 03:18 AM
#11
Originally Posted by importedboi
Ill go in order.
Start up perfectly fine besides the fact that it idles at 4500k, drove around for like 3mins, normal engine power and everything.
Turn it off to see if my throttle was stuck. It wasnt stuck, and also to change the engine oil
Crank it didnt start up.
Compression Start it, and fired right up but now it idles at like 400rpm or less, now it is gutless.
Pulled it apart agian to check whats wrong, found nothing besides some capped off vaccums, try starting it again, didnt fire so we compression started it, fired up.
Drove around for 10mins, its gutless, but builds boost normally.
I would really appreciate it if you came over to come and help me out with it.
I also did hook up that big line behind the the UIM
Start up perfectly fine besides the fact that it idles at 4500k, drove around for like 3mins, normal engine power and everything.
Turn it off to see if my throttle was stuck. It wasnt stuck, and also to change the engine oil
Crank it didnt start up.
Compression Start it, and fired right up but now it idles at like 400rpm or less, now it is gutless.
Pulled it apart agian to check whats wrong, found nothing besides some capped off vaccums, try starting it again, didnt fire so we compression started it, fired up.
Drove around for 10mins, its gutless, but builds boost normally.
I would really appreciate it if you came over to come and help me out with it.
I also did hook up that big line behind the the UIM
03-27-06, 07:54 AM
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You REALLY NEED to state what model car you have. S4 or S5.
ASSuming you havea S4,you have connected your omp air lines up wrong plus the fuel injector air bleed is connected up wrong.
The lines on top of the oil injectors all get fed air from the large nipple on the rear of the throttle body. They are all first joined together into what Mazda calls a Spider and this spider is fed from the LARGE nipple on the rear of the throttle body.
The nipple that is b/t the two oil injectors is for the fuel injector air bleeds. It also goes to a nipple on the back of the throttle body. NEVER the bottom nipple though. That bottom nipple on the throttle body is the ONLY one that has vaccuum on it. You can connect the fuel injector air bleed to any of the upper nipples.
YOu can go to MAZDATRIX online site to see what a spider looks like. Or you can buy some VACTITE nipples and make your own. Just NEVER connect the oil meter injectors to a source of vacuum and the same can be said about the fuel injector air bleed nipple.
After you straighten this out you may still have problems with the idle, but at least this part will be kosher. One step at a time.
ASSuming you havea S4,you have connected your omp air lines up wrong plus the fuel injector air bleed is connected up wrong.
The lines on top of the oil injectors all get fed air from the large nipple on the rear of the throttle body. They are all first joined together into what Mazda calls a Spider and this spider is fed from the LARGE nipple on the rear of the throttle body.
The nipple that is b/t the two oil injectors is for the fuel injector air bleeds. It also goes to a nipple on the back of the throttle body. NEVER the bottom nipple though. That bottom nipple on the throttle body is the ONLY one that has vaccuum on it. You can connect the fuel injector air bleed to any of the upper nipples.
YOu can go to MAZDATRIX online site to see what a spider looks like. Or you can buy some VACTITE nipples and make your own. Just NEVER connect the oil meter injectors to a source of vacuum and the same can be said about the fuel injector air bleed nipple.
After you straighten this out you may still have problems with the idle, but at least this part will be kosher. One step at a time.
03-27-06, 06:41 PM
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The spider is item D at or near the bottom of this page http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-5.htm
03-27-06, 06:57 PM
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[IMG]
[/IMG]
As you can see in the pic, I spidered all the oil injectors lines into one and then put it on the top of the throttle bodie. Was this the correct spot?
[/IMG] As you can see in the pic, I spidered all the oil injectors lines into one and then put it on the top of the throttle bodie. Was this the correct spot?
03-27-06, 07:05 PM
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Welllllll.............I've never seen it done like that. Where is the other end of the hose connected??? Should be to the large metal nipple at the back of the throttle body. There are four nipples, one above the other back there. The hose should be going to the second one from the bottom which is larger than the others.
I hope it's not going to the large metal nipple that is by itself and is to be used for the brake booster.
Usually the single hose connected to the spider is routed from the rear of the intake manifold and not the front.
I hope it's not going to the large metal nipple that is by itself and is to be used for the brake booster.
Usually the single hose connected to the spider is routed from the rear of the intake manifold and not the front.
03-27-06, 09:47 PM
#19
Originally Posted by importedboi
[IMG][/IMG]
As you can see in the pic, I spidered all the oil injectors lines into one and then put it on the top of the throttle bodie. Was this the correct spot?
[/IMG] As you can see in the pic, I spidered all the oil injectors lines into one and then put it on the top of the throttle bodie. Was this the correct spot?
Take off your UIM/TB and look at the backside of it. You should see FOUR nipples, one on top of the other. Since your emissions are stripped, most (or all) will be capped off.
The SECOND from the bottom is a FAT nipple. This is the nipple that the vac. spider should be connected to. Like Hailers said, the nipple between the Oil Injectors should be connected to any of the top two nipples, of the four.
Make sense?
03-27-06, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by eriksseven
Yo, that's not the right spot on the TB. That's a coolant passage you have the line going to.
Take off your UIM/TB and look at the backside of it. You should see FOUR nipples, one on top of the other. Since your emissions are stripped, most (or all) will be capped off.
The SECOND from the bottom is a FAT nipple. This is the nipple that the vac. spider should be connected to. Like Hailers said, the nipple between the Oil Injectors should be connected to any of the top two nipples, of the four.
Make sense?
Take off your UIM/TB and look at the backside of it. You should see FOUR nipples, one on top of the other. Since your emissions are stripped, most (or all) will be capped off.
The SECOND from the bottom is a FAT nipple. This is the nipple that the vac. spider should be connected to. Like Hailers said, the nipple between the Oil Injectors should be connected to any of the top two nipples, of the four.
Make sense?
I switched it to the four nipples on the back, the second one from the bottom. Now the car wont start at all. Man im depressed.
03-27-06, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by importedboi
I switched it to the four nipples on the back, the second one from the bottom. Now the car wont start at all. Man im depressed.
It's possible that you left something off and that's why it won't start. Maybe the large hose on the rear of the throttle body for the brake booster is off?????
03-29-06, 12:47 AM
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okay got a compression test today. Front and Rear Rotors both have 88-89. Is that good for a S4 Turbo II rx7 with 110,000 miles on it?
Then i was thinking it might be flooded so we tried unflooding it and no fuel came out. Then this has probably led to my fuel not getting through thats why it was weak, hesitating, not starting, etc. Now i have to figure out what I did or why they are not firing.
Then i was thinking it might be flooded so we tried unflooding it and no fuel came out. Then this has probably led to my fuel not getting through thats why it was weak, hesitating, not starting, etc. Now i have to figure out what I did or why they are not firing.
03-29-06, 03:54 AM
#24
Originally Posted by importedboi
okay got a compression test today. Front and Rear Rotors both have 88-89. Is that good for a S4 Turbo II rx7 with 110,000 miles on it?
Then i was thinking it might be flooded so we tried unflooding it and no fuel came out. Then this has probably led to my fuel not getting through thats why it was weak, hesitating, not starting, etc. Now i have to figure out what I did or why they are not firing.
Then i was thinking it might be flooded so we tried unflooding it and no fuel came out. Then this has probably led to my fuel not getting through thats why it was weak, hesitating, not starting, etc. Now i have to figure out what I did or why they are not firing.
Your AFM is hooked up, right?
03-30-06, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by eriksseven
Compression is not great, but it's good enough to start/run/drive. It'll last a while longer if you treat it right, but still you should be saving up for a rebuild.
Your AFM is hooked up, right?
Your AFM is hooked up, right?