im asking cause i got my car to idle tuesday night .. shut it off, and now it wont idle, and wont even reach 2000 rpm , regardless of how much gas i give it ...

im thinking maybe im in limp mode, but im not getting a check engine light .. of course it doesnt light up with the key in the on position so i assume it wont come on at all ...

but i dont see how a mechanical omp can cause limp mode on a series 4 cause there are no connections for it ..

i need to know EVERYTHING that would cause the car not to rev above or even get to 2 grand on the tach?

could it be?
HUGE vaccum leak
AFM?
something else horribly wrong
OMP? (dont see how)

etc, etc

 

I dont think the S4's have limp mode. Not sure.

 

Nope.

Start with the vacuum leak theory. Check around the accordian intake tube...Is it pig rich? Plugs fouled? Ignition working? Compression test?

 

no limp on s4

how is afm mounted?

could be a big vac leak..... you should be able to hear one that big.

 

well my intake is from the forum member 2a+ron or however you spell his name ... i have that down tight, but it does make me wonder sometimes .. im thinking about putting the stock intake on for the time being ....

im tearing it down saturday and rechecking everything ..
there are some exposed wires on the AFM plug .. is there anyway to check the actuall plug for proper resistance or voltage?

other than a major vaccum leak , can you think of anything that would cause the car to not get up to 2000 rpm, only minutes after reving up farther than that and holding an idle at 1500?

 

no limp mode, not even a code for the OMP on S4's...is it acting like only 1 rotor's firing? there's more, I'm sure, but the limp mode items I know of are: 1) water thermo sensor, and maybe AFM, not sure

 

p.s.
i know the compression is good, (we tested it before we put it in and just after we put it in ) its only been in the car for about 2 weeks or so ..

i know i have spark, cause it will start ...
im going to check fuel saturday ... maybe the filter is way too clogged?

 

the intercooler i have on it, keeps bending the sensor on the throttle body elbow .. ive broke the original one already, so i snatched one off the series 5 jspec throttle body i have. .. but to get the intercooler tight i have to press it down hard and it keeps bending that sensor .. could that be the problem? i straighten it out everytime and reattach the sensor, but could that sensor being pressed against the bottom of the intercooler, affect it at all>?

 

S4's dont have a code on the OMP because its a mechanical OMP, right?

 

1) you can read the AFM plug back to the ECU, if that's what you're asking (except for the ground & door switch pins)
2) you sure your injectors are O.K.? they haven't been sitting around on a shelf or a parts car, have they?

 

mine doesn't hit but i never looked to see how much clearance.

your manifold is prolly not on correctly then.

you might have tightend it down on something and is at an angle -not seating correctly.

is the bolt from the manifold that has a 12m nut on it set in the groove for the IC mount?

that will cause it not to sit properly.

you should have no clearance problems

 

well its a series 5 upper and lower intake with a series 4 intercooler ... they dont sit quite right ....

im thinking about buying some ducting to connect from the turbo to the throttlebody to just eliminate the intercooler for the troubleshooting phase ... it wont sit right on the manifolds regardless .... series 5's and 4's have different hieghts or something i read on this forum

 

yeah they are different.

i would look into that

and are you using a s4 tps as they are differnt too

 

yeah, im using my throttle body from my series 4 ... im pretty sure my tps is shot, but that shouldnt keep it from reving above 2000, i was under the impression that was just for fine tuning the idle, and gas conservation type things...

my injectors are something im going to look into as well...they DID sit for over a year .... we tested them out by attaching current to them, supposidly your supposed to get a click from them when you do this and we got a click so we just assumed they were still good ...

 

ahhh, pull the injectors when you rip it apart again...just because they're clicking don't mean they're flowing- trust me, been there, done that, 3 day troubleshooting marathon...rig up a hose with some solvent in it (acetone works well) & put 12v on the injectors- once they click, try to blow the solvent through them from the other end of the hose (don't ingest the acetone!)

 

hmmmmmm .... thanks everyone ... i have a decent list of things to check now

 

I would also suspect leading coil pack also, you can start a car on trailing but it will bog.

Fuel filter or cats (2 precats 1 main cat was on mine when it was new).

If you can drive the car after checking ignition on leading then look under the car, preferrably at night, sometimes they will glow cherry red when clogged. If you are not worried about noise pollution you can just disconnect the exhaust at the manifold and start the car. Although, an open exhaust though is scary loud

Other things that cause the exhaust to glow red is ignition timing way off, or not burning the gas going into the chamber(s).

 

its not the exhuast .. i have a racing beat 3.15 turbo back

it should be in my signature, but its not showing up