Omg! Emergency! Broke Spark Plug In Engine!
#27
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so antisieze woulda prevented this? if so, id take this as a learning leason. hope youve been thinking about a rebuild recently. while we are on the subject i there something made to clean up the threads a lil, my concern would be when "cleaning" metal woud fall into the engine.... just thought id throw that out there.
#28
Sharp Claws
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no it won't prevent it, it may help or it may actually hinder the plug from wanting to come out. gotta remember anti sieze does dry out over time so it will just be a mettalic buffer between the plug and housing.
best thing you can do is make sure the plug threads are clean, you can do this by putting some ATF on the threads and running the plug in and out a few times then crank the engine over for a few seconds to blow the ATF off the threads. the ATF helps clean the crap that is built up off the threads, adding anti sieze just adds more crap to the threads to have to clean off later.
some people swear by anti seize but i prefer not having anything on there, just clean threads on plug and housing.
best thing you can do is make sure the plug threads are clean, you can do this by putting some ATF on the threads and running the plug in and out a few times then crank the engine over for a few seconds to blow the ATF off the threads. the ATF helps clean the crap that is built up off the threads, adding anti sieze just adds more crap to the threads to have to clean off later.
some people swear by anti seize but i prefer not having anything on there, just clean threads on plug and housing.
#30
I "lost" my emissions....
ever want to port your engine? now is a good time!
try chipping at it till the procilins out then possibly use some kind of adhive on a smaller bolt to hold it and unscrew it. something like jb weld although that prolly wont be strong enough
try chipping at it till the procilins out then possibly use some kind of adhive on a smaller bolt to hold it and unscrew it. something like jb weld although that prolly wont be strong enough
#31
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Sears sells a set of sockets that are engineered to remove bolts with rounded off heads. They have a set in the $25 range. It looks like you have enough of the plug left to use the bolt extractors.
#32
Ok I see no bolt there to get at, just barely some threads. I would recommend perhaps try finding some sort of counter sink screw or bolt. With the screw get some vise grips on it and try and turn it out. Your not going to be able to get anything on that, or take a screwdriver, cut a slit in the plug, and try and hammer counterclockwise, maybe that will help, use some PB blaster when your doing this.
#33
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The set I used : " Lisle 6 pc. Stuck Bolt, Nut and Stud Remover Set"
The set is $35 but they work.
Take a look.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
ash
The set is $35 but they work.
Take a look.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
ash
#36
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I plan to take the engine apart to rebuild in my case, but I assume that if you can break the center part of the spark plug out leaving the the threaded casing, use some penetrating oil, and also heat the aluminum housing, then something will have to budge. Would a large phillips screw driver also help to extact the plug is the center was missing?
#38
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Hey Guys! Sorry for the no response, I had a lot of Christmas things to do at my church. But heres the story:
So this happend as I was checking my plugs (Because my car already had problems holding idle) to see if they shown signs of any unusual wear (BTW these plugs are brand new). I put the plug in and tightened it and it broke, Dang... I really wish i had pictures but to better describe it, my plugs were good old NGK's and the porcelin did come off as it broke, so only the thread is left in there. So i went to home depot to get a reverse drill bit set and tried to stick a 1/4 inch (I think) and twisted it. It felt like it was working but then the bit broke...
So now i'm think OH MY CRAP....
My Solutions:
1.) Since the Plug is covered, I can run just one spark in the first chamber
2.) I will try to use a bigger bit to get it out (There is still some more room to put the bit in the spark plug)
I am going to go to Sears today to do some more Christmas shopping and buy some tools. And if i do get this fixed, I promise to make a how to on taking out broken spark plugs.
Thanks!
-Josh
So this happend as I was checking my plugs (Because my car already had problems holding idle) to see if they shown signs of any unusual wear (BTW these plugs are brand new). I put the plug in and tightened it and it broke, Dang... I really wish i had pictures but to better describe it, my plugs were good old NGK's and the porcelin did come off as it broke, so only the thread is left in there. So i went to home depot to get a reverse drill bit set and tried to stick a 1/4 inch (I think) and twisted it. It felt like it was working but then the bit broke...
So now i'm think OH MY CRAP....
My Solutions:
1.) Since the Plug is covered, I can run just one spark in the first chamber
2.) I will try to use a bigger bit to get it out (There is still some more room to put the bit in the spark plug)
I am going to go to Sears today to do some more Christmas shopping and buy some tools. And if i do get this fixed, I promise to make a how to on taking out broken spark plugs.
Thanks!
-Josh
#40
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by Karack
i'm still trying to figure out how you broke the plug, the only thought that popped into my head is tightening it with a break bar...
an engine that has been sitting forever and a day and the plugs just don't want to come out is a different story.
an engine that has been sitting forever and a day and the plugs just don't want to come out is a different story.
BINGO! I did use a breaker bar to loosen them. The other three plugs were super tight all the way till the last thread came out. Now my question, how tight did he try to make his spark plugs? Surely not supposed to be tight enough to break the plug unless it was just a defective plug. In that case, the manufacturer needs to know about it.
#41
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Nope, no breaker bar, i used a regular 10-12 inch rachet with a fitting that was made to remove and put in spark plugs (The one with the rubber bushing in side)
#43
Originally Posted by jouslee
Oh, and i tightened them as tight as i could with my rachet
#45
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yeah grab these-
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
and use the ones designed for screws not the ones for bolts and i bet it will pull that biotch right out. if not... try using the ones for bolts but drilling into the ceramic is going to be a PIA
just remember go slow, it will come out eventually.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
and use the ones designed for screws not the ones for bolts and i bet it will pull that biotch right out. if not... try using the ones for bolts but drilling into the ceramic is going to be a PIA
just remember go slow, it will come out eventually.
#46
Weird Cat Man
Originally Posted by jouslee
Oh, and i tightened them as tight as i could with my rachet
I tighten my plugs to about 14 lbs*ft on my car and I've never had a problem. As an experiment, I used an old plug and old housing (trash one) and tightened it in to something like 60 lbs*ft... I didn't have a problem actually.
14 lbs*ft is is just kinda snugged down... not really TIGHT with a deathgrip.
Oh well, mistakes happen
#47
I wish I was driving!
Originally Posted by jouslee
Hey Guys! Sorry for the no response, I had a lot of Christmas things to do at my church. But heres the story:
So this happend as I was checking my plugs (Because my car already had problems holding idle) to see if they shown signs of any unusual wear (BTW these plugs are brand new). I put the plug in and tightened it and it broke, Dang... I really wish i had pictures but to better describe it, my plugs were good old NGK's and the porcelin did come off as it broke, so only the thread is left in there. So i went to home depot to get a reverse drill bit set and tried to stick a 1/4 inch (I think) and twisted it. It felt like it was working but then the bit broke...
So now i'm think OH MY CRAP....
My Solutions:
1.) Since the Plug is covered, I can run just one spark in the first chamber
2.) I will try to use a bigger bit to get it out (There is still some more room to put the bit in the spark plug)
I am going to go to Sears today to do some more Christmas shopping and buy some tools. And if i do get this fixed, I promise to make a how to on taking out broken spark plugs.
Thanks!
-Josh
So this happend as I was checking my plugs (Because my car already had problems holding idle) to see if they shown signs of any unusual wear (BTW these plugs are brand new). I put the plug in and tightened it and it broke, Dang... I really wish i had pictures but to better describe it, my plugs were good old NGK's and the porcelin did come off as it broke, so only the thread is left in there. So i went to home depot to get a reverse drill bit set and tried to stick a 1/4 inch (I think) and twisted it. It felt like it was working but then the bit broke...
So now i'm think OH MY CRAP....
My Solutions:
1.) Since the Plug is covered, I can run just one spark in the first chamber
2.) I will try to use a bigger bit to get it out (There is still some more room to put the bit in the spark plug)
I am going to go to Sears today to do some more Christmas shopping and buy some tools. And if i do get this fixed, I promise to make a how to on taking out broken spark plugs.
Thanks!
-Josh
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