Okay veterans, I'm stumped...
#26
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Oh and also, the vacuum lines haven't been altered as far as I know. They were up to par when it went out. I did remove the vacuum line coming off the egr valve and now my car sounds cooler haha. I also have flippin exhaust coming out all over the place; so I need to invest in some new exhaust gaskets... anyone know where I can get some online? No one in town has them...
#27
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did you rev the motor while the car was in neutral with the clutch pushed in? Did it make the noise?
Try connecting the two wires(using a crimp connector) for the thermo switch at the bottom of the radiator.
You still never said if you took off the air filter and reved the car
Try connecting the two wires(using a crimp connector) for the thermo switch at the bottom of the radiator.
You still never said if you took off the air filter and reved the car
#28
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No, I have been at work all day. I get breaks every 2.5 hours or so... But I have not yet revved it with it in neutral and clutch pushed in or with my intake removed... And what good will crimping those wires together?
#30
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The water thermo switch at the bottom of the rad is used primarily for the secondary air injection system. The coolant sensor for the EGI is at the back of the water pump thermostat housing.
The EGR valve on the S4 NA (S5's have no EGR valves) is mounted at the top of the intermediate shaft and requires removal of the intake manifold to get to the vacuum line at it - unless you unhook the vacuum line at the EGR solenoid. I have a feeling you're talking about the vacuum lines to the ACV (air control valve) roughly between the lower intake manifold and the exhaust manifold.
If you still have an air pump and main cat, you want the ACV connected properly to send air either to relief (to atmosphere), exhaust port, or main cat. You won't get better performance with half a system working. This may also explain you smelling exhaust gases.
Back to the main problem... as I said before (and a few others), try to narrow down the problem. Rev. to 4-5000 RPM, in gear clutch in, clutch out, then in neutral clutch in, clutch out. Listen to the engine to see if it's firing smoothly. The vibration may come from the engine running roughly or being out of balance. It may come from the clutch, tranny input shaft or other transmission parts. If the vibration only occurs with the car actually moving, the problem could be back of the tranny, or even suspension, brake parts, wheel bearings, diff, mounts or axles.
Basically, you need to try the things above so we can have a better clue.
The EGR valve on the S4 NA (S5's have no EGR valves) is mounted at the top of the intermediate shaft and requires removal of the intake manifold to get to the vacuum line at it - unless you unhook the vacuum line at the EGR solenoid. I have a feeling you're talking about the vacuum lines to the ACV (air control valve) roughly between the lower intake manifold and the exhaust manifold.
If you still have an air pump and main cat, you want the ACV connected properly to send air either to relief (to atmosphere), exhaust port, or main cat. You won't get better performance with half a system working. This may also explain you smelling exhaust gases.
Back to the main problem... as I said before (and a few others), try to narrow down the problem. Rev. to 4-5000 RPM, in gear clutch in, clutch out, then in neutral clutch in, clutch out. Listen to the engine to see if it's firing smoothly. The vibration may come from the engine running roughly or being out of balance. It may come from the clutch, tranny input shaft or other transmission parts. If the vibration only occurs with the car actually moving, the problem could be back of the tranny, or even suspension, brake parts, wheel bearings, diff, mounts or axles.
Basically, you need to try the things above so we can have a better clue.
#31
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Okay so I put the missing nut back on the water pump pully, helped a little with how smooth it feels but the shaking is still there...
I took off the air filter and again, didn't change anything... I did that with the clutch, and there is NO change. It doesn't matter what gear I am in. Its always between 4 and 5 k rpm. I should get a video up tomorrow.
I took off the air filter and again, didn't change anything... I did that with the clutch, and there is NO change. It doesn't matter what gear I am in. Its always between 4 and 5 k rpm. I should get a video up tomorrow.
#33
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Okay so I put the missing nut back on the water pump pully, helped a little with how smooth it feels but the shaking is still there...
I took off the air filter and again, didn't change anything... I did that with the clutch, and there is NO change. It doesn't matter what gear I am in. Its always between 4 and 5 k rpm. I should get a video up tomorrow.
I took off the air filter and again, didn't change anything... I did that with the clutch, and there is NO change. It doesn't matter what gear I am in. Its always between 4 and 5 k rpm. I should get a video up tomorrow.
As soon as I replaced my water pump I started getting high RPM vibration (most noticeable at 4-5k). I took my fan off the other day and pulled the alternator/air pump belts so I could just spin the water pump w/ pulley. Sure enough, the pulley wobbles slightly with each rotation. I haven't had the chance to pull off the pulley (since you have to take off all of them...f-ing mazda), so I don't know if it's the bearing in the water pump that's bad or if the pulley is warped somehow. I'd suggest checking it out; a lot of old posts on vibration come up with the same reason: bad water pump bearing.
And block off that ACV (air control valve, the thing the air pump plugged into with a ~1" hose).
#36
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As far as what I will do to fix the problem, I'll start by buying another pump. This time I'll check ahead of time that it actually spins evenly. Most auto parts stores have limited lifetime warranties on parts, so swapping it won't be an issue.
#38
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well the waterpump came with the waterpump gasket (and a lifetime warrenty), so i molested it with sealent before I put it on, but the housing gasket your talking about... that might be a good idea.
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Just take the damn stock fan off, start the engine, and you will know within seconds if that is the problem.
#43
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I'm not sure - is there some reason you think it would be the EGR? All EGR does is lower combustion temps, and thereby NOx formation, by routing back inert exhaust gas to the intake under part throttle conditions. It sounds like you have a misfire; I'd be looking for unplugged vacuum lines or solenoids.
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OK OK.....So my friend decided to get these great looking new pulley for his 86 na. Man were they clean. But when he started up his Rx7 it started shaking around the same rpm. Then we relized that there was a set of small counter balance weight's were the eccentric shaft pulley is. You might have noticed these stupid little tabs of metal.
If your fan or water pump wasn't installed right then you would have a shake. But leave no stone unturned and make sure you check everything.
Any more question's? sendme a message.
If your fan or water pump wasn't installed right then you would have a shake. But leave no stone unturned and make sure you check everything.
Any more question's? sendme a message.
#45
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Okay i'll take off the fan first thing tommorow morning, but the waterpump... i looked at the pully and fan mount and they matched up and everything. Damn, why do replacement parts have to be such a pain....
Plus... if something was "out of balance," wouldn't the wobbeling progress the higher the rpms go? I dont feel anything <4,000 rpm
Plus... if something was "out of balance," wouldn't the wobbeling progress the higher the rpms go? I dont feel anything <4,000 rpm
#47
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Yeah im gunna take off the fan today after work (6:30) and see if that changes anything. i also think i need to take my exhaust apart and put in all new gaskets...
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