marshall13B

iTrader: (5)

Oh and also, the vacuum lines haven't been altered as far as I know. They were up to par when it went out. I did remove the vacuum line coming off the egr valve and now my car sounds cooler haha. I also have flippin exhaust coming out all over the place; so I need to invest in some new exhaust gaskets... anyone know where I can get some online? No one in town has them...

lupin

iTrader: (3)

did you rev the motor while the car was in neutral with the clutch pushed in? Did it make the noise?

Try connecting the two wires(using a crimp connector) for the thermo switch at the bottom of the radiator.

You still never said if you took off the air filter and reved the car

marshall13B

iTrader: (5)

No, I have been at work all day. I get breaks every 2.5 hours or so... But I have not yet revved it with it in neutral and clutch pushed in or with my intake removed... And what good will crimping those wires together?

lupin

iTrader: (3)

I'm not sure how the switch works but once the car heats up I think it might make a connection between the wires. And because your car never sees that connection it could cause a hesitation Maybe?

and the air filter move was a sep test.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

The water thermo switch at the bottom of the rad is used primarily for the secondary air injection system. The coolant sensor for the EGI is at the back of the water pump thermostat housing.

The EGR valve on the S4 NA (S5's have no EGR valves) is mounted at the top of the intermediate shaft and requires removal of the intake manifold to get to the vacuum line at it - unless you unhook the vacuum line at the EGR solenoid. I have a feeling you're talking about the vacuum lines to the ACV (air control valve) roughly between the lower intake manifold and the exhaust manifold.

If you still have an air pump and main cat, you want the ACV connected properly to send air either to relief (to atmosphere), exhaust port, or main cat. You won't get better performance with half a system working. This may also explain you smelling exhaust gases.

Back to the main problem... as I said before (and a few others), try to narrow down the problem. Rev. to 4-5000 RPM, in gear clutch in, clutch out, then in neutral clutch in, clutch out. Listen to the engine to see if it's firing smoothly. The vibration may come from the engine running roughly or being out of balance. It may come from the clutch, tranny input shaft or other transmission parts. If the vibration only occurs with the car actually moving, the problem could be back of the tranny, or even suspension, brake parts, wheel bearings, diff, mounts or axles.

Basically, you need to try the things above so we can have a better clue.

marshall13B

iTrader: (5)

Okay so I put the missing nut back on the water pump pully, helped a little with how smooth it feels but the shaking is still there...

I took off the air filter and again, didn't change anything... I did that with the clutch, and there is NO change. It doesn't matter what gear I am in. Its always between 4 and 5 k rpm. I should get a video up tomorrow.

Davidov

iTrader: (2)

Have you tried to take off your fan and/or drivebelts, and then see if the problem is still there?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Ok, I just read through all the posts, and if you saw a small improvement by adding a nut back onto the fan assembly, then it's gotta be the same problem I'm having.

As soon as I replaced my water pump I started getting high RPM vibration (most noticeable at 4-5k). I took my fan off the other day and pulled the alternator/air pump belts so I could just spin the water pump w/ pulley. Sure enough, the pulley wobbles slightly with each rotation. I haven't had the chance to pull off the pulley (since you have to take off all of them...f-ing mazda), so I don't know if it's the bearing in the water pump that's bad or if the pulley is warped somehow. I'd suggest checking it out; a lot of old posts on vibration come up with the same reason: bad water pump bearing.

And block off that ACV (air control valve, the thing the air pump plugged into with a ~1" hose).

marshall13B

iTrader: (5)

dang, so whats the fix?

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

Are you SURE YOU PUT THE SPACERS BACK ON BEHIND THE WATER PUMP HOUSING? This will cause bad vibration and maybe break your front iron.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

If he replaced only the pump, and not the whole housing (which most people would do unless the rear gasket was leaking), then that's not a possibility.

As far as what I will do to fix the problem, I'll start by buying another pump. This time I'll check ahead of time that it actually spins evenly. Most auto parts stores have limited lifetime warranties on parts, so swapping it won't be an issue.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

Why not replace the gasket while youre at it? They dont last for forever.

I'd feel like an *** if i replaced the pump and not the housing gasket and then it leaked 6 months down the road and i had to take it all back off again.

marshall13B

iTrader: (5)

well the waterpump came with the waterpump gasket (and a lifetime warrenty), so i molested it with sealent before I put it on, but the housing gasket your talking about... that might be a good idea.

marshall13B

iTrader: (5)

Also, I'm going to get an e-fan from an early 90's ford taurus. I hear those fit perfectly with the s4 n/a koyo radiator? Im hoping this might help a little.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

so you didnt take the whole housing off, or did you?

Davidov

iTrader: (2)

Instead of wasting your time buying a fan, figuring out how to install it, etc...
Just take the damn stock fan off, start the engine, and you will know within seconds if that is the problem.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

If taking the fan off fixes the problem then you have a worn waterpump bearing, the fan wasnt installed right, or there are no spacers on the back of the housing on the left most studs.

Street_Knight

WTF?

Street_Knight

OK OK.....So my friend decided to get these great looking new pulley for his 86 na. Man were they clean. But when he started up his Rx7 it started shaking around the same rpm. Then we relized that there was a set of small counter balance weight's were the eccentric shaft pulley is. You might have noticed these stupid little tabs of metal.
If your fan or water pump wasn't installed right then you would have a shake. But leave no stone unturned and make sure you check everything.
Any more question's? sendme a message.

marshall13B

iTrader: (5)

Okay i'll take off the fan first thing tommorow morning, but the waterpump... i looked at the pully and fan mount and they matched up and everything. Damn, why do replacement parts have to be such a pain....


Plus... if something was "out of balance," wouldn't the wobbeling progress the higher the rpms go? I dont feel anything <4,000 rpm

Street_Knight

I'm just saying my friend had the same problems, just something you might want to cover.

marshall13B

iTrader: (5)

Yeah im gunna take off the fan today after work (6:30) and see if that changes anything. i also think i need to take my exhaust apart and put in all new gaskets...