Fitness Stain

man it was a complete pain in the *** .... hard nasty dirty work ...


anyway ...

im putting a newer one back on today when i get off ....

one question ....
all the threads i have read about replacing the oilpan its about 50/50 on the matter of using the gasket or not ...

i have a gasket ... and also a brand new full tube of copper RTV ....

should i use the rtv alone or in conjunction with the gasket ?

the new pan going on is in good condition ... no obvious warps or bends on the pan ...
and i cleaned the **** out of both surfaces .... i spent over an hour just scrubbing the bottom of the block to remove all the oil/old gasket/rtv and it looks pretty good now ..
i also used a brass type brush to help scratch the surfaces for a better bond with the RTV

so here i stand before you ... asking to use the gasket .... or not???

Wankel7

I have done four pans and have used gasket/rtv everytime and it never leaks. If you have the gasket use the gasket.

James

Edit - Why did you pull the oilpan?

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

When I did this chore on my '91 N/A, I replaced the gasket and used RTV. Never had any problems with leakage. Just my $0.02 and my personal experience.

Fitness Stain

The drain plug is stripped thus i cant change the oil ... PLUS it had developed a decent leak several months before ...

anyone else with personal experience?

kungfuroy

iTrader: (6)

Go with an rtv-gasket-rtv sandwhich. Just make sure that your mating surfaces are super clean and free from oil or else the rtv wont stick

buttsjim

I think the FSM recommends either way. Like others here, I used both.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I always use both. Never had a leak. Make sure to thoroughly clean both the pan mating surface and bottom of the engine. Use wide washers on the bolts, and only torque to 10 FT-LBS. If you tighten too much, you WILL break the bolts.

Fitness Stain

yeah i know about breaking bolts ... ive stripped a few on previous engines ....

so you said use washers?
wide washers as in just wider than normal washers , or is that a specific type of washer?


sorry its early

KingCobraV9

iTrader: (2)

i just used a bead of rtv around the edge and around all the holes and it sealed fine once i got all the blots in it. i was missing one for a day or 2 then i found it and put it back in. dont forget to put a lil sealent on the temp and oil level sensors too.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The washers I generally use extend from the edges of the bolt by about 3MM or so. They're wider then standard. Generally a hardware store item.

Fitness Stain

awesome .. thanks mr cake!


now to go buy some washers at the hardware store ...

Fitness Stain

so should i apply the rtv and attach the pan .... and then wait about 20 mins or whatever the tube says to tighten all th way down ...

or should i not attach it at all until 20 mins after i apply it?

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Are you serious? I doubt those bolts will break. One might strip the aluminum housing, but not break the bolts. Maybe the specs in the FSM are low because the pan is prone to warping if tightened too much, maybe.

Edit: Sorry, back to the topic. I personally use a "smear" of black RTV on both sides of a RB gasket. Haven't had any leaks yet.

Wankel7

No really...people have had them shear.

James

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You know, I have done this once or twice...

Yes, they will most definitly break. Those bolts seem to be very low grade, and will break if you look at them wrong. Part of it probably has to do with all the sealant and goo that ends up at the back of the bolt holes (some of them on the front cover can be sealed at the end depending on the casting). You end up tightening the bolt against the goo, so it breaks off.

One of the reasons I always replace with stainless bolts (covered in antiseize).

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Damn thats crazy. I got new bolts from a Fastenal store. I think they were like 4 bucks, I dunno. I got them a little longer since I added the RB oil pan baffle. The baffle plus 2 RB gaskets added enough space that the stock bolts barely bit the motor.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

good to know * runs to hardware store* im doing this in the morning. the washers is a great idea to spread the clamping load out!

Fitness Stain

ahhhem

my question is stillkinda unanswered ... oh well .. here i go anyway

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Which question?

You should use the gasket.

I just apply the RTV directly to the gasket on both sides then apply immediately. I only let it sit a little if I'm not using a gasket.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

ditto the gasket/RTV sandwich.

Wankel7

Well, that is a no brainer you HAVE to use longer bolts if you use the baffel.

I went with teh morroso stud kit though when I did my baffle plate. It made it allot easier to line up the gaskets, rtv, and baffle. What a soup of rtv.

James

RX-Heven

iTrader: (1)

I never use gaskets with the oil pan.
Forget all that Permatex stuff, HondaBond is the way to go. No comparison whatsoever.
Be sure not to overtighten the oil pan bolts. They only take about 7 ft.lbs.

Sandwiching the gasket between layers of sealant is utterly pointless imho. Use one or the other, preferably just sealant.

Fitness Stain

[QUOTE=Aaron Cake]Which question?

QUOTE]

my last question was about how long to let the rtv chill before applying ..

its all good now though ...

the package said to apply immediatly, but thats damn near impossible so i did the best i could ...

i basically went around the whole mating surface of the pan with bead, then i smeared it ALL over the mating surface ... put the gasket on ... then did another bead all the way around ... then smeared that one on too ... it sure does take alot of rtv to do the oil pan ...

once i had that done i popped the pan up there and got a few opposing side bolts in there to hold it ...

getting those pan bolts on the front was freaking insane ... i still dont know how i did it ..

now comes the waiting ... im gonna wait a few days before adding oil ... but im not letting the car off the jackstands until i have added oil and it holds ...
i REALLY dont want to do this job again

Mason Rx7

I have to put in my input after this post. The last owners rebuilt the engine before I got it and it leaks like HELL after I change the oil, and then a little bit regularly. They just used sealent.

I would reccomend using the sandwhich method. Just sealant doesn't work.

I absolutly hate the oil stains under my car.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

^^ whats even better is when it gets on the exhaust,mmmmm love the smell of burnt oil!!