2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

okay so i pulled my oil pan

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Old 11-11-05 | 07:55 AM
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okay so i pulled my oil pan

man it was a complete pain in the *** .... hard nasty dirty work ...


anyway ...

im putting a newer one back on today when i get off ....

one question ....
all the threads i have read about replacing the oilpan its about 50/50 on the matter of using the gasket or not ...

i have a gasket ... and also a brand new full tube of copper RTV ....

should i use the rtv alone or in conjunction with the gasket ?

the new pan going on is in good condition ... no obvious warps or bends on the pan ...
and i cleaned the **** out of both surfaces .... i spent over an hour just scrubbing the bottom of the block to remove all the oil/old gasket/rtv and it looks pretty good now ..
i also used a brass type brush to help scratch the surfaces for a better bond with the RTV

so here i stand before you ... asking to use the gasket .... or not???
Old 11-11-05 | 08:01 AM
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I have done four pans and have used gasket/rtv everytime and it never leaks. If you have the gasket use the gasket.

James

Edit - Why did you pull the oilpan?
Old 11-11-05 | 08:01 AM
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When I did this chore on my '91 N/A, I replaced the gasket and used RTV. Never had any problems with leakage. Just my $0.02 and my personal experience.
Old 11-11-05 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Wankel7
I have done four pans and have used gasket/rtv everytime and it never leaks. If you have the gasket use the gasket.

James

Edit - Why did you pull the oilpan?

The drain plug is stripped thus i cant change the oil ... PLUS it had developed a decent leak several months before ...

anyone else with personal experience?
Old 11-11-05 | 08:09 AM
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Go with an rtv-gasket-rtv sandwhich. Just make sure that your mating surfaces are super clean and free from oil or else the rtv wont stick
Old 11-11-05 | 08:57 AM
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I think the FSM recommends either way. Like others here, I used both.
Old 11-11-05 | 09:09 AM
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I always use both. Never had a leak. Make sure to thoroughly clean both the pan mating surface and bottom of the engine. Use wide washers on the bolts, and only torque to 10 FT-LBS. If you tighten too much, you WILL break the bolts.
Old 11-11-05 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
I always use both. Never had a leak. Make sure to thoroughly clean both the pan mating surface and bottom of the engine. Use wide washers on the bolts, and only torque to 10 FT-LBS. If you tighten too much, you WILL break the bolts.

yeah i know about breaking bolts ... ive stripped a few on previous engines ....

so you said use washers?
wide washers as in just wider than normal washers , or is that a specific type of washer?


sorry its early
Old 11-11-05 | 09:45 AM
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i just used a bead of rtv around the edge and around all the holes and it sealed fine once i got all the blots in it. i was missing one for a day or 2 then i found it and put it back in. dont forget to put a lil sealent on the temp and oil level sensors too.
Old 11-11-05 | 10:08 AM
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The washers I generally use extend from the edges of the bolt by about 3MM or so. They're wider then standard. Generally a hardware store item.
Old 11-11-05 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
The washers I generally use extend from the edges of the bolt by about 3MM or so. They're wider then standard. Generally a hardware store item.

awesome .. thanks mr cake!


now to go buy some washers at the hardware store ...
Old 11-11-05 | 02:23 PM
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so should i apply the rtv and attach the pan .... and then wait about 20 mins or whatever the tube says to tighten all th way down ...

or should i not attach it at all until 20 mins after i apply it?
Old 11-11-05 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
...and only torque to 10 FT-LBS. If you tighten too much, you WILL break the bolts...
Are you serious? I doubt those bolts will break. One might strip the aluminum housing, but not break the bolts. Maybe the specs in the FSM are low because the pan is prone to warping if tightened too much, maybe.

Edit: Sorry, back to the topic. I personally use a "smear" of black RTV on both sides of a RB gasket. Haven't had any leaks yet.
Old 11-11-05 | 03:05 PM
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No really...people have had them shear.

James
Old 11-11-05 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdv519
Are you serious? I doubt those bolts will break. One might strip the aluminum housing, but not break the bolts. Maybe the specs in the FSM are low because the pan is prone to warping if tightened too much, maybe.
You know, I have done this once or twice...

Yes, they will most definitly break. Those bolts seem to be very low grade, and will break if you look at them wrong. Part of it probably has to do with all the sealant and goo that ends up at the back of the bolt holes (some of them on the front cover can be sealed at the end depending on the casting). You end up tightening the bolt against the goo, so it breaks off.

One of the reasons I always replace with stainless bolts (covered in antiseize).
Old 11-11-05 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Wankel7
No really...people have had them shear.

James
Damn thats crazy. I got new bolts from a Fastenal store. I think they were like 4 bucks, I dunno. I got them a little longer since I added the RB oil pan baffle. The baffle plus 2 RB gaskets added enough space that the stock bolts barely bit the motor.
Old 11-11-05 | 03:25 PM
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good to know * runs to hardware store* im doing this in the morning. the washers is a great idea to spread the clamping load out!
Old 11-11-05 | 03:35 PM
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ahhhem

my question is stillkinda unanswered ... oh well .. here i go anyway
Old 11-11-05 | 03:42 PM
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Which question?

You should use the gasket.

I just apply the RTV directly to the gasket on both sides then apply immediately. I only let it sit a little if I'm not using a gasket.
Old 11-11-05 | 03:46 PM
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ditto the gasket/RTV sandwich.
Old 11-11-05 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdv519
Damn thats crazy. I got new bolts from a Fastenal store. I think they were like 4 bucks, I dunno. I got them a little longer since I added the RB oil pan baffle. The baffle plus 2 RB gaskets added enough space that the stock bolts barely bit the motor.
Well, that is a no brainer you HAVE to use longer bolts if you use the baffel.

I went with teh morroso stud kit though when I did my baffle plate. It made it allot easier to line up the gaskets, rtv, and baffle. What a soup of rtv.

James
Old 11-11-05 | 05:32 PM
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I never use gaskets with the oil pan.
Forget all that Permatex stuff, HondaBond is the way to go. No comparison whatsoever.
Be sure not to overtighten the oil pan bolts. They only take about 7 ft.lbs.

Sandwiching the gasket between layers of sealant is utterly pointless imho. Use one or the other, preferably just sealant.
Old 11-11-05 | 05:33 PM
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[QUOTE=Aaron Cake]Which question?

QUOTE]

my last question was about how long to let the rtv chill before applying ..

its all good now though ...

the package said to apply immediatly, but thats damn near impossible so i did the best i could ...

i basically went around the whole mating surface of the pan with bead, then i smeared it ALL over the mating surface ... put the gasket on ... then did another bead all the way around ... then smeared that one on too ... it sure does take alot of rtv to do the oil pan ...

once i had that done i popped the pan up there and got a few opposing side bolts in there to hold it ...

getting those pan bolts on the front was freaking insane ... i still dont know how i did it ..

now comes the waiting ... im gonna wait a few days before adding oil ... but im not letting the car off the jackstands until i have added oil and it holds ...
i REALLY dont want to do this job again
Old 11-11-05 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RX-Heven
I never use gaskets with the oil pan.
Forget all that Permatex stuff, HondaBond is the way to go. No comparison whatsoever.
Be sure not to overtighten the oil pan bolts. They only take about 7 ft.lbs.

Sandwiching the gasket between layers of sealant is utterly pointless imho. Use one or the other, preferably just sealant.
I have to put in my input after this post. The last owners rebuilt the engine before I got it and it leaks like HELL after I change the oil, and then a little bit regularly. They just used sealent.

I would reccomend using the sandwhich method. Just sealant doesn't work.

I absolutly hate the oil stains under my car.
Old 11-11-05 | 08:10 PM
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^^ whats even better is when it gets on the exhaust,mmmmm love the smell of burnt oil!!


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