Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Can I just point out the obvious thing here? No flames intended, but there is no need to destroy three pilot bearings in order to remove them when a suitable generic pilot bearing puller tool can be obtained for under $20 at your local Autozone or Harbor Freight. Grind down the jaws a bit on the inside and it turns 3 hours of hell into 60 seconds of joy. Pop it in, pull the mandrel back to expand the jaws and crank it counterclockwise for Happy Ending!

The Mazda tool is obviously best, but for the once in a blue moon that the average owner would need to pull a pilot bearing, the HF/Autozone tool is an attractive alternative.

Also, an inexpensive torque wrench is a smart investment. A 1/2" drive one should suit almost all of your needs. If you need a smaller range, get a 1/4" drive too.

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

Yes it is a grade like American grade 8 for automotive. You might be OK. You'll find out when you torque them. I think the metric automotive are actually marked 10.9.

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

I tried the whole renting/grinding down the tips thing before on another engine a few years ago. Didn't work well for me.. I was able to bust out the 3 other pilot bearings very quick because they were sticking out. Just chisel one part inward like your caving it in then go underneath it. Very easy. Getting them out wasn't my problem.

Well anyways i have the pilot bearing flush with the bottom of the inside taper now. Im ready to continue with the swap! I have a torque wrench and planned to use it. Thanks guys!!

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

They pull back against the clamp of the pressure plate. Without them, no pressure from the pressure plate.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i never had luck with the autozone tool even with grinding down the jaws, that piece of **** just flexes/pops off the lip and sits under my tool box collecting dust. the harbor freight tool costs about $60 but works MUCH better.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Yes,and if that happened the driver would most likely know something is up.
He mentioned locktightening the bolts so they can't spin,so no loosening and therefore shouldn't be a problem.,
6 medium grade bolts should be able to hold the force of a stock clutch when engaging and dis-enagaging.

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

Let me revive my old thread by first saying god damnt.

I guess my pilot bearing install was no good. I have finished the entire 5 speed swap, car runs good but it wont go into any gears. With the car off i can get it into any gear. I verified that the slave is doing its job moving the clutch fork. So im left to believe the pilot bearing is seized up.

Im going to drop the trans and go over it again. Instead of putting every single thing back together then testing it can i do this.... after the tranny is back in push in the clutch pedal,have it in gear, and spin the rear wheels by hand to confirm it stays in neutral? That way i know once the car is running i will be able to put it in and out of gear this time around and drive the god damn thing. Orrr will this not work for some reason?

O and a funny thing. Today I managed to stumble upon the original 6 pressure plate bolts I had lost along time ago.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

How well adjusted is the rod at the clutch pedal? You probably would have thought of this during an auto to manual swap, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

The clutch disc can be installed incorrectly which will basically lock you out of gear when the engine is running. Sucks to learn the hard way.


[edit]
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...9/#post3271747

After searching may or may not be possible with NA? I put my TII clutch in backwards after rebuilding, I was disappointed when it wouldn't go into gear.

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

I bled the clutch and adjusted it. Pedal feels proper and is moving the clutch fork a good amount when the pedal is pressed. (I have my 86 n/a to compare everything to)

Ummmm maybe i did put the clutch disc in backwards then... im using a TII flywheel,clutch,trans,starter and slave. What side of the clutch disc needs to face the back side of the car? Im using a new OEM clutch.

I am fully locked out of gear while the car is running. If i turn the car off it goes into gear no problem. If i have it in gear, clutch pedal pressed down and try to start the car it lurches forward. So its not going into "neutral" when i have the clutch pedal down and have it in gear.

Its beautiful out today, best weather ive seen all year. I guess im going to start disassembling everything right now.
Here is a picture of the vert. Just had it detailed yesterday. Damn't this is perfect drop top weather. I want this done already!

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

I found this thread talking about a S5 turbo trans.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...engage-967674/

I see it says the hump of the clutch disc needs to face the diff. I honestly dont recall which way i put mine on. Hopefully i did just do that wrong and thats it.

I also just stumbled upon a nice little oil leak at the lower corner of the front cover on the drivers side. Just swell!

jjwalker

Clean car. Every vert with the stock top is ripped in that same damn spot!

I had a little rip in mine in the same spot, but I patched it.

Sucks you have to drop the trans again.

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

Trans is out, clutch disc was facing the right direction but the pilot bearing wouldn't spin by finger.

Nothing looked damaged, no unusual wear on the input shaft, nothing.

Little confused why this happened. Everything went smooth during the install before. Hopefully the bearing doesn't seize up this time. I know the bearing spun perfectly fine before the trans was put in.

The dealerships and local automotive stores dont have a pilot bearing in stock. Hopefully a friend has one for me. I dont want to have to order one. I will update this thread when its put back together.