ShIvER[PT]

I think most of U know what Im talking about but for those who don't here's the deal: I want to buy an s5 TII that I came to find that it's coolant sealants are KO, I was told to find a Fc in good shape but that's next to impossible (unless I import but I don't wanna go that way cause rotary taxes are REALLY expencive).
find a better shape fc cause the car is not behing used and it rusts inside.. now read this:

1- the first time I went to check out the car it didn't fire right up, but hey it was stoped there for 2 years... but from the moment it started it was fine (idle was jumping up and down really crazy and stuff but nothing that I can relate to blown seals)
2- I went there like 2-3 more times and it was allways the same, a bit hard to start (nothing to much, little touch on the throtle and it would fire up), and allways reved up just fine..
3- a week ago or so, I went there and the guy from the stand started it and it was really weird!! REALLY hard to start... then when it started it had no power at all... had to fulltrotle for 10 seconds or so to make it climb to 3000rpm and once it got there it worked ok again!! but once I droped the acelerator, it died.. but then it was once again "easy" to start, and after it started it was exactlly the same as before mad jumpy idle but revved fine!
(I forgot to tell that it rained really bad one day or two before point 3.)


what do I want from this? not really sure.. just that I don't want to believe it is a KOed car..
rusted that bad?! (to the point where a new engine is required, no normal rebuild would fix it)..how much time does it takes to rust the inside to the point where it's unusable?

what signs can I check on the car that will tell me if it is koed or not?
1- compression test
2- if it starts normally again it's a good sign..
3- no rusted plugs ?
4- no giant white cloud at start up..
5- ??


sorry If im behing repetitive and irritant with my questions.. but I really like these cars (specially a black s5), and Ive done what my older brother told me it was impossible.. convince my parents to suport me on this!! I was so happy now Im really confused and kinda sad.. a little help here please

once again,
thx in advance

ShIvER[PT]

oh.. I knew I was forgeting sumthing!!
wouldn't it run like crap if it was rusted inside?

yearrgh

It sounds like the primary fuel injectors aren't working properly.

Nice sig btw.

RylAssassin

WOW settle down there fella, one question at a time. Your not buying a brand new ferrari here so calm down a bit.
If your looking at an FC than its got to be around 15 years old right? That means you can expect some problems with it.
It sounds like from what i can translate from your post that your having some kind of starting problems with the car your trying to buy. Well i would consider the fact that according to what you say its been sitting for 2 years. That means lower compression and the seals could be in bad shape (apex seals) and that its in an extreme need of a tune up. Ask the guy when a tune up was done and get the compression checked then you can start worrying.
You need to be able to work on these cars and know a decent amount about them to own one due to the fact that there are very few GOOD rotary mechanics that know what they are doing. If in doubt bring someone you know that knows somthing about them or do lots of research.
Good luck.

ShIvER[PT]

sorry.. I was freaking out. I mean, this car is one of my goals as my teenager life (Im 19 but still a teen ), so I was a bit freaked out after this thread : https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/blown-coolant-seals-%3D-coolant-combustion-chamber-366354/
take a look and also take a look at these pics from rotaryressurection.com http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...naldamage.html check the part where it says "COOLANT SEAL DAMAGE", that's what I was thinking about for that s5.. not that bad but sumthing like that.
I also forgot to mention that on point 3 my friend told me it trew a lot of smoke while I was accelerating it (before it fired up nice). I asked if it was white and he sayd yes, but then he said he wasn't sure but that it was bright.

also... wouln't it gush out water of the rad cap if the coolant seals were broken while I cranked it? (after I filled it up to the top and removed the EGI fuse)
(there might be hope ) I really don't mind if the car needs a rebuild! Ill do it, as long as only small internal parts are needed. the ones at rotaryaviation kits are what I had in mind! but if the housing or rotors them self are KOed, I might aswell forget it...

I might go there tomorrow if U guys give me a few ideas that I can check..

Edit: off to bed now.. but Ill come here to check on new posts as soon as I can tomorrow

WAYNE88N/A

Compression check, definetly. On any rotary that has high mileage on it, say over 100K miles...

If the compression numbers are around 85 to 90 psi, maybe a bit lower, and you want to rebuild, that's fine- a kit should do the trick. If the compression numbers are screwy, like 90 in front and 30 or less in the back, you may want to reconsider, because the rotor housing may not be in the best of shape to use for rebuilding, and if you can't get a new rotor housing to your location, then it's all for naught...

ilike2eatricers

Next time you go to check out the car do the geyser test. Then it that checks out warm up the car and let it idle. Turn it off and then do a compression test. Check for smoke out of the exhaust and check the codes. That should be a pretty good overall idea of what's wrong with the car. Search to find out how to do these things.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Definately do that, although the white smoke is enough to tell that the coolant seals arent in great shape.
You sound a lot like me - I was 19 when I got my car and it was my goal in life to get one. It also had problems with the coolant seals (although I didn't know it at the time) and it died about 3 months later. If you do get it, plan on doing at least a partial rebuild when you get it. If you wait you might just crack the housing like I did.

tecknomage

whats a geyser test

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

basically you warm the car up, take the radiator cap off and rev the engine. If you see lots of bubbles and coolant shoots out, your seals are bad and air is being forced into the coolant system. For more details do a quick search.

ilike2eatricers

You can do the geyser test when the car is cold. Which I actually prefer because when the car is warmed up and the coolant system is pressurized it's not too fun taking off the pressure cap unless you like getting burned and making a mess.

Pull codes off an s5 http://1300cc.com/howto/how2/codes.html

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

No one can say what you'll find on the inside until it is apart. I would expect to find a housing or 2 warped, or maybe a busted jacket, as pictured on my site. IF it still runs, then the rust isnt a concern yet...but the warpage or busted jacket are.

Bottom line, you have to get it and take it apart to know for sure, anything else is just speculation.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

oh yeah, im stupid.

ShIvER[PT]

thx.. I forgot to tell one thing.. the car's alternator belt is loose. and I don't have the tools to fix it :\
(but I have all kinds of tools on my summer house's garage that is where I plan to fix the car)

ShIvER[PT]

yeah, it still runs.. so I guess the housings are fine, right?

ShIvER[PT]

Ok I went there and Im quite dull...

the car started but didn't hold on.. even if I acelerated it died.. I tought it was lack of fuel so I went and buy a bit of quality fuel. then I think the booster didn't have enough power to start it up..

the gueiser test.. well, I opened the cap and to my surprise it was pretty wet. I didn't need to add much coolant for it to reach the top.. less than a cup!! then I cranked it, and not a thing.. didn't even move, now listen here. wich belt connects to the water pump ? cause the one that is loose is the one that goes to the air pump (but it's related to the alternator cause it doesn't move).

the codes stuff.. well, the key is suposed to be one the II position right? well all lights (exept two of them) were on and none went down.. or blinked :S
and another thing.. the stupid lights I see here, have text. well, that car has simbols!! I didn't see any check engine light

and, well the man on the stand told me to get a mechanic to fix that belt (that I will have to pay for) and then he would go with me, so I could drive the car and that way check if I like it or not.. I guess he's bored cause I went there so many times. and also, when I asked him for the number of the car's owner (it's not his car.. it's from a friend's of him that uses his stand has a garage) cause I wanted to talk with him about a compression check he told me that he had lowered to price to 6000€ so he wouldn't be bored anymore... my guess, he wants to take his cut cause the car stayed on the stand for so long!! bastard!!!

any advice?
I have a friend of mine that is a mechanic at citroen.. I believe he can go there with me and fix that belt, U guys think I should go for a drive?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Don't go far.

IF the car is as you have described thus far, I would give it about a 5% chance of NOT needing a rebuild. I don't know why you won't accept that it will have to be done if you intend to put it back into service. This is ridiculous. I say either buy it and fix it right, or leave it alone. I can't be the only one getting tired of hearing about it on a daily basis...

Do you not read well? I just told you above, that rust probably isn't any concern, however that still doesnt mean that you won't find a warped or cracked iron. This is a 50/50 shot, and it depends on exactly how hot the engine was overheated in the first place. No one can know until it is taken apart. But, it isn't going to fix itself.

ShIvER[PT]

hey don't beat me up!! Im sorry If I was a boresome... Im not concerned about a rebuild where I need to replace all the seals and stuff, cause that's "easy" to get.. but if the housings or rotors are messed up it's another thing cause such parts are hard to get here. ... I am gonna buy it, Im just trying to make sure I won't be spending 5000€ on a car that has a totally f*cked up engine..

ilike2eatricers

The thing is you won't know for sure unless you take apart the engine. That's the bottom line. Honestly I think it's a pretty big gamble to buy the car with how you described it.

If you dont know how to tighten the belt I suggest you make yourself a big budget to pay your mechanic also. Not trying to put you down but it's the truth.

ShIvER[PT]

it's not that I don't know.. Im not a mechanic the owner won't let me do it. Im somewhat good with mechanics, I don't know much.. but I think Im a fast learner and I understand how stuff works pretty fast. also.. I don't have the tools on my house. they are all on my summer house's garage