Ok guys! need help: Brakes, Idle, BAC, Manifolds, A/C rem., & finally, PING: Sonicrat
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Ok guys! need help: Brakes, Idle, BAC, Manifolds, A/C rem., & finally, PING: Sonicrat
Ok Guys, heres the scoop.
A few of you remember me
Its been a few months since I've been on and around. I'm going back to school wednesday and am excited, but have only 2 days to get everything fixed on my car i want fixed.
Last March I swapped the auto out for another auto. Took a total of about 30 working hours. I'd never considered doing such a job, so it was a total learning experience.
Problem 1: Oil Pressure Guage not working.
Possibility: I know its not on the mushroom thing under the oil filter mount. I've checked, rechecked and double rechecked.
I have three wires left over from the auto/auto swap that did not get respliced togeteher
A. Wire hanging from starter, or area of. Has about .7 volts when the car is at idle. It drops a bit, to about 6.8 when you give it gas.
B. Wire is dangling near oil filter mount. After numerous trial and errors, I have found that grounding this wire makes the oil pressure guage spike to its highest point.
C. Wire also near oil filter mount. Has no voltage when car is running to my knowledge. I tried hooking Wire B to Wire C, and gauge spikes to half the gauge. However I don't believe this is the correct wire.
Problem 2: 2nd gear went out on the auto tranny 2 months after installing it.
Solution: Bought Manual driveline parts from SonicRat.
------------------------------
On and off my car will be a stuburn bitch. Sometimes, usual on hot days, the car will just not be nice. When you start, she hesistates until about 4k rpm. Than she will spike to the good ole 7000rpm (in park of course, WOT). However, doing the same (WOT) other times the engine will completely cut out at 4000 rpm for 2-3 seconds, or until I let off the gas and reapply gas. Not a freaking clue what this might be. Its aggrivating as hell though.
--------------------------------
Rebuilt rear brake calipers. Didn't do the best job of bleeding the brakes, but they work alright, just a bit more squishy than they used to be. Noticeable, but not bad at all. Now when I brake after I start the car (for example stopping at the stop sigh when leaving home) the car will die. I assume it is related to my schmuch bleed job? Is that even possible?
------------------------------
When starting the car, I let it AWS run for about a minute. I put it in reverse and make it about 10 feetout of the driveway before she dies. Start her up, make it another ten feet and dies. Once I'm going straight in drive, no problems other than those stated above or below.
-------------------------------
Today I was hoping to get to the bottom of some ****. Took off the intake piping. Removed intake elbow. Removed all TB bolts and DC bolts. Can't get the TB or DC off from the manifolds, so I just cleaned some things up and put it back together.
I was hoping to make it to the 6port act. and see if they are working alright. I looked just above the Exhaust manifold (with all the above still intact) and saw the two mushroom looking thingies that I believe are the actuators... correct?? I always thought you had to remove the UIM and LIM to get to them though??
I tried to move the rods connected to the mushroom things (which are above the exhaust manifold, next to the EGR thingy, and have vacumn hoses going to them) and the aft rod moves about 7-8mm up and down. The forward actuator rod does not move at all. I put everything back together, and started her up. I thought I would see the rod move if i revved the engine, but I didn't see the rods move at all.
Are these even the 6port actuators, and are they supposed to move??
------------------
Today I also removed a bunch of A/C crap that my car hasn't liked in over 3 years --since I got the car. I'm a man and dont need a/c-- or something. besides its almost winter. I had to take a cutting wheel to the A/C oil cooler because the mounts and all bolts were so rusted on. Came off without any trouble. Took off some various A/C piping along with it. the compressor is still on the engne, however is not belted.
In all my car actually seems happier not to have all that A/C crap in her. She sstill got long ways to go though!!!
------------------
Finaly, SonicRat/James-- you around?
-------------
Thanks for reading everything, I'd really love your help or any comments that you may have. Thanks!!!
Kent
A few of you remember me
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Last March I swapped the auto out for another auto. Took a total of about 30 working hours. I'd never considered doing such a job, so it was a total learning experience.
Problem 1: Oil Pressure Guage not working.
Possibility: I know its not on the mushroom thing under the oil filter mount. I've checked, rechecked and double rechecked.
I have three wires left over from the auto/auto swap that did not get respliced togeteher
A. Wire hanging from starter, or area of. Has about .7 volts when the car is at idle. It drops a bit, to about 6.8 when you give it gas.
B. Wire is dangling near oil filter mount. After numerous trial and errors, I have found that grounding this wire makes the oil pressure guage spike to its highest point.
C. Wire also near oil filter mount. Has no voltage when car is running to my knowledge. I tried hooking Wire B to Wire C, and gauge spikes to half the gauge. However I don't believe this is the correct wire.
Problem 2: 2nd gear went out on the auto tranny 2 months after installing it.
Solution: Bought Manual driveline parts from SonicRat.
------------------------------
On and off my car will be a stuburn bitch. Sometimes, usual on hot days, the car will just not be nice. When you start, she hesistates until about 4k rpm. Than she will spike to the good ole 7000rpm (in park of course, WOT). However, doing the same (WOT) other times the engine will completely cut out at 4000 rpm for 2-3 seconds, or until I let off the gas and reapply gas. Not a freaking clue what this might be. Its aggrivating as hell though.
--------------------------------
Rebuilt rear brake calipers. Didn't do the best job of bleeding the brakes, but they work alright, just a bit more squishy than they used to be. Noticeable, but not bad at all. Now when I brake after I start the car (for example stopping at the stop sigh when leaving home) the car will die. I assume it is related to my schmuch bleed job? Is that even possible?
------------------------------
When starting the car, I let it AWS run for about a minute. I put it in reverse and make it about 10 feetout of the driveway before she dies. Start her up, make it another ten feet and dies. Once I'm going straight in drive, no problems other than those stated above or below.
-------------------------------
Today I was hoping to get to the bottom of some ****. Took off the intake piping. Removed intake elbow. Removed all TB bolts and DC bolts. Can't get the TB or DC off from the manifolds, so I just cleaned some things up and put it back together.
I was hoping to make it to the 6port act. and see if they are working alright. I looked just above the Exhaust manifold (with all the above still intact) and saw the two mushroom looking thingies that I believe are the actuators... correct?? I always thought you had to remove the UIM and LIM to get to them though??
I tried to move the rods connected to the mushroom things (which are above the exhaust manifold, next to the EGR thingy, and have vacumn hoses going to them) and the aft rod moves about 7-8mm up and down. The forward actuator rod does not move at all. I put everything back together, and started her up. I thought I would see the rod move if i revved the engine, but I didn't see the rods move at all.
Are these even the 6port actuators, and are they supposed to move??
------------------
Today I also removed a bunch of A/C crap that my car hasn't liked in over 3 years --since I got the car. I'm a man and dont need a/c-- or something. besides its almost winter. I had to take a cutting wheel to the A/C oil cooler because the mounts and all bolts were so rusted on. Came off without any trouble. Took off some various A/C piping along with it. the compressor is still on the engne, however is not belted.
In all my car actually seems happier not to have all that A/C crap in her. She sstill got long ways to go though!!!
------------------
Finaly, SonicRat/James-- you around?
-------------
Thanks for reading everything, I'd really love your help or any comments that you may have. Thanks!!!
Kent
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Problem 1: Oil Pressure Guage not working.
Tapping it, the unit itself, makes it work for me.
A. Wire hanging from starter, or area of. Has about .7 volts when the car is at idle. It drops a bit, to about 6.8 when you give it gas.
B. Wire is dangling near oil filter mount. After numerous trial and errors, I have found that grounding this wire makes the oil pressure guage spike to its highest point.
C. Wire also near oil filter mount. Has no voltage when car is running to my knowledge. I tried hooking Wire B to Wire C, and gauge spikes to half the gauge. However I don't believe this is the correct wire.
B. Wire is dangling near oil filter mount. After numerous trial and errors, I have found that grounding this wire makes the oil pressure guage spike to its highest point.
C. Wire also near oil filter mount. Has no voltage when car is running to my knowledge. I tried hooking Wire B to Wire C, and gauge spikes to half the gauge. However I don't believe this is the correct wire.
Rebuilt rear brake calipers. Didn't do the best job of bleeding the brakes, but they work alright, just a bit more squishy than they used to be. Noticeable, but not bad at all. Now when I brake after I start the car (for example stopping at the stop sigh when leaving home) the car will die. I assume it is related to my schmuch bleed job? Is that even possible?
I tried to move the rods connected to the mushroom things (which are above the exhaust manifold, next to the EGR thingy, and have vacumn hoses going to them) and the aft rod moves about 7-8mm up and down. The forward actuator rod does not move at all. I put everything back together, and started her up. I thought I would see the rod move if i revved the engine, but I didn't see the rods move at all.
Are these even the 6port actuators, and are they supposed to move??
Are these even the 6port actuators, and are they supposed to move??
And this problem may cause this one:
On and off my car will be a stuburn bitch. Sometimes, usual on hot days, the car will just not be nice. When you start, she hesistates until about 4k rpm. Than she will spike to the good ole 7000rpm (in park of course, WOT). However, doing the same (WOT) other times the engine will completely cut out at 4000 rpm for 2-3 seconds, or until I let off the gas and reapply gas. Not a freaking clue what this might be. Its aggrivating as hell though.
Last edited by Templeswain; 09-02-03 at 10:01 AM.
#7
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Awesome, thanks James.
So... what exactly do i do about these 6port actuators? Are they SOL, or can i break them free? Err-- rather do they need to be replaced or just fixed? the forward actuator is stuck solid, while the aft actuator rod moves 7-8 mm. How far should they be able to move?
Also... my buddy said I would need new manifold gaskets if I took of the TB, DC, UIM or LIM. Is this true. I honestly doubt they have ever been removed from the block...ever.
Thanks for your help.
So... what exactly do i do about these 6port actuators? Are they SOL, or can i break them free? Err-- rather do they need to be replaced or just fixed? the forward actuator is stuck solid, while the aft actuator rod moves 7-8 mm. How far should they be able to move?
Also... my buddy said I would need new manifold gaskets if I took of the TB, DC, UIM or LIM. Is this true. I honestly doubt they have ever been removed from the block...ever.
Thanks for your help.
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Are they SOL, or can i break them free? Err-- rather do they need to be replaced or just fixed?
Don't know.
Make em work.
the forward actuator is stuck solid, while the aft actuator rod moves 7-8 mm. How far should they be able to move?
They should move completely, freely, easily. No stickiness.
If you replace one. Replace the other.
Also... my buddy said I would need new manifold gaskets if I took of the TB, DC, UIM or LIM. Is this true. I honestly doubt they have ever been removed from the block...ever.
Sometimes they can't.
So, would you rather have the gasket ready and at hand if you can't re-use it?
Or would you rather not have the gasket handy?
My experience is that you're not going to say, "Damn it, dman it all to hell, I have all the gaskets that I need!"
Last edited by Templeswain; 09-02-03 at 07:46 PM.
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