SpooledupRacing

Please alow me to clarify my intent on my previous post..

I was not trying to be rude or a ********, It is great that u are trying to find all of this out however I am just trying to state that it seems very odd and over the top for somone who has no expectations of having a car that performs to such high expectations..

Thats all.. good luck on your quest for knowledge.

SpooledupRacing

I guess I over looked this what regulators are u refering to? andwhat is their benifit over the fc regulators

Roen

iTrader: (2)

If you're going to do the oil pan gasket, you might as well go with a baffle plate while you're doing it.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

...which requires another gasket and makes a subsequent pan leak twice as likely.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

Of course you could always go with longer studs....

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

front and rear oil pressure regulators...one goes in the rear iron, one in the front iron.

benefit is higher pressure...FC stuff maxes out around 80psi, Fd stuff around 110-115. I am running them in my FC with no issues.

micah

Man, I can't believe I haven't seen this post.... I did almost the exact same thing a couple weeks ago. Except, I hooked my garden hose up to the drain spigot of my hot water heater and blasted near-boiling hot water into it. I used a piece of wood with a point like you mention in the post to block off the bypass portion of the cooler. The amount of crap that came out with water alone was astounding.. There WERE a few chunks of black gunk... but nothing outrageous. Then I tipped it on its side so I could fill it with degreaser of some sort. I used simple green, but moved up to purple power... let it soak for a good 30min, came back rinsed it out for a LONG time then soaked a mixture of dishsoap and water in it for a long while.... then rinse... Every time rinsing with the hottest water I could get. Then I hooked up my air compressor and dried it out for a long time. I have a refrigerated air-dryer, so that helped dry it out.

+1 on taking it in though if you've had a spun bearing or something super serious. I'm tempted to take mine in ALSO before I start this engine... I just wonder if flushing it out the DIY way maybe didn't get ALL of it out, but losened it enough so that next time I run the car, it'll break free and fuxxor me.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

The OPR you buy from RB, is that the front or rear OPR? Methinks it's the rear, so where would I get an 80 psi front?

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

I've actually been toying with the idea of running dual oil coolers similar to the FD setup I saw recently (i'll hunt the link real quick). I was curious if those coolers and setup give the same cooling factors as the stock oil cooler. I ask because I plan on running a front mount and the extra room would prove beneficial, but not at the sacrifice of heat disappation.

Black91n/a

http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/shimoil.htm

It's nearly free, so it's a good way to go.

If you've got the engine apart you can swap in the TII oil pump, it's wider for more capacity, it's a good mod for a heavily tracked car.

I've put in an oil pan baffle twice, once with gaskets and goo, once with just goo and I've never leaked a drop. Seriously, just goop the snot out of it and it should be fine.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

^that philosophy leads to clogged oil pickup strainers, ala mazda remans.

NZConvertible

First, why would you remove the thermostat and expect the oil temps to change? Why would you even remove the thermostat at all? And if you have 220degF oil at light loads then something is obviously wrong with your oil cooling system because that's not normal.

Turning on the heater is going to have no effect on oil temps because oil doesn't run though the heater...

They'd be next to useless. A fan small enough to fit would move only a tiny amount of air through a small fraction of the core, so you'd need a bunch of them. Plus they'd need to be completely weatherproof and able to withstand high temps. Good like finding anything suitable.

That's completely and utterly pointless for your car (and most other people's). And FD's have 13B's too...

Unless you actually have an oil temp problem, this is going to do more harm than good because you'll be over-cooling the oil. Oil that's too cold doesn't lubricate as well as oil at the proper temp. Unless this is for a track car, don't do it.

I heard of a guy who "gooped the snot" out of the sump gasket on his $10,000 Chev V8, only to have the excess goop get squeezed into the oil and block the oil pick-up enough to turn his engine into a $10,000 boat anchor within 100km...

You should use just enough sealant to make a good seal. No more, no less.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

And for the love of all that is holy, do NOT do the eccentric oil jet mod if you have an NA oil pump unless you like > 10 PSI of oil pressure at idle.

Wankel7

I understand that. I was illustrating the point on how quickly water will lose its heat while oil will take more time to do so.

James

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

unless its the dead of winter a secondary oil cooler won't have ANY negative effect....its not goin to reduce the temperture to where it would cause a problem.....cooler engine oil= cooler engine

say you are using a 10 weight oil......its goin to have to get to down to about 5degrees Celsius before its starting to get to thick to move around the engine properly but that oil is good to around -15C
the cooler the oil is the thicker the oil is ...the thicker the oil is the better it coats parts
don't run some crazy thick oil and you will be fine
say it dropped it 15-20C degrees i'm having trouble seeing how it would have anything but positive effects on the engine
not to mention that it also increases the volume of oil in the engine oil system

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Well, that is and isn't true....

The stock oil cooler has a thermostat which bypasses the oil cooler until the oil temperature has risen (to around 190 I think?). Otherwise the oil would be overcooled and it would be like a perpetual cold start. Oil is designed to operate at a specific temperature when under high load. If it's constantly cool, then it's viscosity may be too high and can cause engine damage (not reaching critical areas, not circulating, putting the oil pump under high load, etc.).

Not true. Why don't we beat on an engine after a cold start? Because oil needs time to come up to temperature before it offers the most protection.

Mazda set bearing clearances with a specific engine temperature and oil temperature in mind.

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

I am debating doing this for my next engine. What would oil pressure be like for a T2 pump with the oil jet mod? The car will be a streetcar for the most part, but I do plan on tracking it a bit. I've read very mixed thoughts on this mod. Some say its for 400Hp and up some say 500hp and up and some say its for very high revving engines. I'll be around 500rwhp revving to around 8K probably.

2Lucky2tha7

iTrader: (3)

Is this for an N/A block or a turbo block? If it's an N/A block, I'd suggest replacing the oil pump with a new TII oil pump from Mazdatrix. It's one of the things I did for my N/A build.

2Lucky2tha7

iTrader: (3)

The oil pump change was already stated, but I would like to add: Apply an even light layer of spray on high tack (the red stuff) where the oil pump mates to the block. Do this to both the block and the oil pump mating surfaces. (Be careful and take your time as to keep ANY of the high tack from possibly getting inside the oil pump gears).
I immediately noticed that from that point on with any of the engines that I have built, that there are no longer any tiny bubbles present in the oil after it has been running. Without doing this, the oil pump is able to pull in a very slight amount of air in through the sides where it is mounted and creates bubbles in the oiling system while it builds the pressure through those gears. I learned this from Judge ITO a few years back and have done it myself about 4 times now and has worked everytime.
BTW, another example is after driving the car and then draining the oil for an oil change, I no longer see any tiny bubbles in the oil like I have seen on other rotaries before. Just a little info for you.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

the oil would never reach its ineffective temperture range.....
obviously with the engine in the stock state its alittle bit overkill
but start adding power and shove a big FMIC in front of the stock oil cooler and a secondary oil cooler might not seem like too bad of an idea

Black91n/a

Ok, well I obviously don't mean use a whole tube of goo on the engine, I mean use enough to be sure that it'll seal. When I did it last with no gaskets I was generous, but hardly any seeped out on the outside, so it's fine.

Wankel7

140F on the stock bypass

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Well, actually it is true that cold oil is much thicker and coats better. What isn't true is that thick oil protects better. Oil needs to flow well, too, or it will reach tight spaces slower or hardly at all. I get mildly annoyed when people simply run the thickest stuff they can find. Thankfully even the thickest oil sold is still ok in most climates.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Between 22-25psi at idle, taken from an autometer electrical gauge.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

In my experience you are fine with the TII oil pump. It moves enough volume such that the oil jet mod only has a minor impact.

For the amount of money it costs (almost none), I'd do it on any engine expected to make big power. 400 HP and above.