Oil Recommendation?
#2
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Before you get seriously flamed, you probably ought to search the forums for this topic. It's been discussed many times. The short version
- Don't use cheap synthetics, only the good stuff like like Mobil 1, Redline, royal Purple
- Use Castrol in a 10W-30 or 20W-50 weight...don't use 10W-40
- Change the oil every 2500-3000 miles
This applies if you keep the Oil Metering Pump hooked up and functioning. If you've disconnected it and are running only premix, then you can use whatever you want.
- Don't use cheap synthetics, only the good stuff like like Mobil 1, Redline, royal Purple
- Use Castrol in a 10W-30 or 20W-50 weight...don't use 10W-40
- Change the oil every 2500-3000 miles
This applies if you keep the Oil Metering Pump hooked up and functioning. If you've disconnected it and are running only premix, then you can use whatever you want.
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15w40 is probably a diesel oil. As long as the oil container says that the oil is approved for mixed fleets-meaning gas and diesel engines, it will be ok to use in your rotary. However, if it says that it is only approved for diesel engines, DON"T USE it because it will have higher ash content and also have additives that can poison your cats.
I use 10w40 exclusively in my rotaries and have driven rotary powered cars since 1986 and am on my 4th RX7. I have yet to ever have to do a rebuild which doesn't appear to be the norm around here.
I use 10w40 exclusively in my rotaries and have driven rotary powered cars since 1986 and am on my 4th RX7. I have yet to ever have to do a rebuild which doesn't appear to be the norm around here.
#6
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Originally Posted by homebrewer
15w40 is probably a diesel oil. As long as the oil container says that the oil is approved for mixed fleets-meaning gas and diesel engines, it will be ok to use in your rotary. However, if it says that it is only approved for diesel engines, DON"T USE it because it will have higher ash content and also have additives that can poison your cats.
I use 10w40 exclusively in my rotaries and have driven rotary powered cars since 1986 and am on my 4th RX7. I have yet to ever have to do a rebuild which doesn't appear to be the norm around here.
I use 10w40 exclusively in my rotaries and have driven rotary powered cars since 1986 and am on my 4th RX7. I have yet to ever have to do a rebuild which doesn't appear to be the norm around here.
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#13
Rotary No Ka Oi
[QUOTE=Chuck]
- Don't use cheap synthetics, only the good stuff like like Mobil 1, Redline, royal Purple
QUOTE]
Say what? Why are you recommending he use synthetics at all? Im sure this has been covered a million times before. You shouldnt be running synthetics. Unless he is premixing which I dont think he is, he is better off running a good quality mineral oil.
- Don't use cheap synthetics, only the good stuff like like Mobil 1, Redline, royal Purple
QUOTE]
Say what? Why are you recommending he use synthetics at all? Im sure this has been covered a million times before. You shouldnt be running synthetics. Unless he is premixing which I dont think he is, he is better off running a good quality mineral oil.
#14
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Originally Posted by SGPguy
WTF? its right under your hood. 20w-50 for normal weather. Most cars have oil recommendations on a sticker on the underside of the hood.
#17
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My car just loves the GTX. As soon as I put it in I noticed a difference in engine noise and vibration, it was much smoother. Its non synthetic too, so its what mazda will recommend.
I think the best would probably be like mobil 1, even though its synthetic, its ash content is very low.. But lets try not to get in an argument on that.
Play it safe and use the GTX
I think the best would probably be like mobil 1, even though its synthetic, its ash content is very low.. But lets try not to get in an argument on that.
Play it safe and use the GTX
#18
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Originally Posted by 91mazdarx7
i put in castrol GTX 20w50
During cold weather I switch to a 10W30 weight oil but otherwise I use what he said. i also run my car premix but I like to keep things consistent. And I use a synthetic oil, a redline a day keeps the build up away.
#19
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Originally Posted by Madrx7racer
i use 10W30.........what are the pro
s of 20w50?
s of 20w50?
20w50 is jsut a thicker weight oil, it supposed to lube the engine up better, where as 10W30 is a lighter weight oil
#21
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Originally Posted by andrewdruiz
GTX 20w50, I have been looking at Idemitsu and Royal purple though... does anyone have those?
For you guys using lighter oils than 20W50 your doing your engines any favors. The rotary engine needs the oil for LUBRICATION in the rotor housings and Mazda recommends that weight for a reason.
Also consider using synthetic oil such as Royal Purple or RedLine for the tranny and differential. They are far superior than the organic oils.
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I did a search on the flushing question before going to RP for the tranny and differential. I found that is not necessary for the manual tranny but might be necessary for the AT if the tranny fluid is very old and very dirty. What is recommended is to buy the cheapest dino tranny oilm 75W90 that you can get and after thoroughly draining a manual transmission simply run the dino oil thru the tranny to flush out all the old stuff. Then replace the drain plug and fill with the new RP GL-5 gear oil, 75W90, until it just starts to seep out of the filler/check plug.
#25
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i am running GTX 20w 50, but i give the car and oil lots of time to warm up. Until the car is fully warmed up, ~10 minutes, the pressure reads very high on my aftermarket guage, which makes me think that 20w 50 is too thick to to circulate very well when it's cool. i have been considering switching to 10w 30, 10w 40 only dropped it about 5 psi. cold.