Oil Pump Issues?
#1
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Oil Pump Issues?
I'm fine driving, 60 psi oil pressure, but the gauge reads none when I'm at idle. Is something wrong with the pump or could the guage be goofy? It'll jump to 60 after about two seconds at 3500 rpm in neutral, and while driving, it's always fine, it's only at idle. It's been like this at least for 2 months, and I still haven't ruined my motor, so I'm hoping it's just something simple. Any help on diagnosis and opinions on the problem would be nice.
#3
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I've seen someone else have this problem, did it to them a couple of times then stopped and read fine ever since. Bad connection, sender, gauge, oil pump...? If it's not the oil pump I'd just put an aftermarket sender & gauge in.
#4
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I have the same problem right now. It doesn't go to 0 at idle on initial startup but after 10 mins of driving and leaving it on idle on a red light, my gauge will read 0. I do have a slight oil leak possibly coming from the secondary turbo. It's probably time for an aftermarket guage.
#5
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every one of my rx7s ive had the sending units do that.. i put after market guages in and i hae good pressure. you could also have a thermo pellet problem too.. just some ideas to try
#6
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The idea is to buy a aftermarket MECHANICAL gauge and patch it in. You use that to confirm whether or not you have a serious stock electrical gauge.
IF the MECHANICAL gauge also reads close to zip at idle when the engine is HOT, then most likely it's a front cover oil passage seal rather than a oil pump. Oil pumps cost a lot for SWAP troubleshooting vs a front cover seal. See MAZDATRIX.COM FAQ's.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm
http://www.mazdatrix.com/boil2.htm
IF the MECHANICAL gauge also reads close to zip at idle when the engine is HOT, then most likely it's a front cover oil passage seal rather than a oil pump. Oil pumps cost a lot for SWAP troubleshooting vs a front cover seal. See MAZDATRIX.COM FAQ's.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm
http://www.mazdatrix.com/boil2.htm
Last edited by HAILERS; 07-17-06 at 02:10 PM.
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