Kai

I just installed an FC3S.org oil pellet in my FC, and I'm seeing much healthier oil pressures then I was before. Very nice.

My question is, if that front bearing somehow managed to slip out, how long would it be before I noticed something was wrong? I think I installed it just fine, but I have that slight paranoia. Thanks!

Icemark

you'd hear it right away upon starting the engine

Kenteth

Reminds me, I should ask, I bought the pellet, but never found the install, is it on atkins site, or other?

Kai

Good to hear that, I feel safe again.

Since I bought mine from FC3S.org, they sent me printed instructions. The instructions are reproduced on their website at: http://www.fc3s.org/parts_services/oilpellet.html

ProjectRESuperG

Did you use thread lock when putting the bolt back?

Any other new parts needed, o-rings? Anything?

Dvst8

iTrader: (6)

Isnt holding the clutch in through the whole process recommended?

Mr. Gadget

It is but I never understood why. Can anyone enlighten us as to why?? It just does not make sense to me.

Trav

asked the same thing... has something to do w/ holding the needle bearings in place when you pull the bolt. I'll try to find the details...

edit: Actually it's in that link above, first paragraph in bold straight off of fc3s.org.

"Before you begin please read the whole write-up to ensure you don't do any damage to your engines Torrington bearings (needle bearings) in the front of the e-shaft. With the front e-shaft bolt removed, the bearings can drop down and cause a real problem. Use another person or a 2X4 of some sort to depress the clutch pedal down to hold the engine internals in place while you do this. If not then the bearings might drop down onto the e-shaft and when you retighten the front bolt, it will crush them and you will be replacing alot of parts. We are not liable for any damage to your engine by doing this modification. It isn't hard, but you must follow the instructions or risk severe damage."

Icemark

There is a small amount of play to the E-shaft when the clutch is out. When it is pressed in it forces the E-shaft all the way forward, and prevents the play or any additional play by the E-shaft not being held in position.

If you removed the E-shaft bolt, and the E-shaft slides backwards, the needle (Torrington) bearing can fall.

With the clutch in the E-shaft can not move backwards. There are people who have removed the E-shaft bolt and reinstalled the valve or bypass pellet, without the shaft sliding backwards, but would you want to take the chance.

Rpeck

****, i just had a brain freeze when i looked at the picture from fc3s.org. Does the Atkins plug come with a spring? should there be a spring even on the bypass plug? what happens if there is no spring ... I just re-did my front cover O-ring gasket a couple of weeks ago, i don't recall a spring on my atkins bypass plug I installed during my rebuild .

***,
thx,
Robert

Rpeck

Okay, i just looked through my "****, where did that part go?" Bin. I came across these 2 springs, they look familiar to anyone?

I'm gonna be bitter if I need to take that damn thing back apart .. but better that, then problems down the road.

Mr. Gadget

Mark, THANKS! This really makes sense.

Rpeck

No one can anwser my ligitimate Hijack

Rpeck

NM, I gave up on you guys .. I did some mental caculations and decided I think that spring should there.. so i went out in the garage and pulle the damn thing all apart and put it in.

Anyways, I will sleep better now.

BDC

Small spring inside of the big spring -> big spring around the back niche machined on the thermal pellet -> inside the eccentric shaft.

B

Kai

How important is it to have the big spring on the pellet, not just sitting in the hole?

When I did the swap, I only came out with one spring... like in the pictures. It was reinstalled with red locktite.

I really wish my email notification actually worked, I have to keep remembering to search for my own threads.

Rpeck

I think there is only 1 spring period, I only had one also .. and I only ever remeber 1. should be fine.