Oil pan gasket.
06-01-11, 06:09 PM
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Oil pan gasket.
Hey guys. I've done some searching and can't really find a clear answer. What are some of the best ways to swap out an oilpan gasket (actually I'm installing the RB baffle along with 2 gaskets) without pulling the engine? My buddy and I have thought about trying to raise the engine up with a floor jack and a giant block of wood so we can unbolt the engine mount, but other than that and the engine hoist plan we can't think of anything. I don't have a hoist, so that's the main issue here.
Thanks in advance,
-Price
Thanks in advance,
-Price
06-01-11, 06:12 PM
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the engine does need to be lifted a little, but there is a flat spot on the bellhousing of the transmission, so you can put the car on jackstands, and then use the floor jack to support the engine
06-01-11, 07:17 PM
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Didn't know this...need to change my oil pan gasket as well. Do you need to unbolt anything from the engine to slightly raise it?
06-01-11, 09:13 PM
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Awesome, that should be easy enough. Hell, I will (hopefully) have just put my transmission back onto the engine haha. Bent three transmission bolts and of course no one in this general area has any 10x1.25 thread pattern bolts.
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06-02-11, 08:37 AM
#8
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I removed both mounts and used an engine hoist to lift the engine ~1.5" to get access to the front oil pan bolts. With that much room it was extremely easy to change the sealant on the pan (I used no gasket), however I found it was a real PITA to get the mounts back through the correct holes as the lift point I used tilted the engine quite a bit to one side. The floor jack method is probably easier if you choose to take both mounts out.
06-03-11, 03:42 AM
#9
The passenger side one has three bolts that go through the oil pan, you can leave the driver's side connected to the engine.
Also, Ultra Black RTV FTW [gaskets suck! I used a single gasket on my first build and then used NO gasket just RTV on the second and the second one never leaked.. The first always leaked.]
Also, Ultra Black RTV FTW [gaskets suck! I used a single gasket on my first build and then used NO gasket just RTV on the second and the second one never leaked.. The first always leaked.]
06-03-11, 06:56 AM
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Huh, could have sworn it was the driver's side that had the three bolts, my memory isn't the best in the world haha. I already ordered (and paid for) my two gaskets and baffle plate, so I'm going to try them out. I wish I had read more before I bought the gaskets, but oh well. I'm going to be going for this tomorrow, I'll post up what we ended up doing.
06-03-11, 09:57 AM
#11
Dont use ultra RTV anything.
The only stuff i have found that will prevent the pan from leaking again in the near future is Right Stuff Grey/Import. That is the only gasketing goop I use on anything in contact with oil...
I do also think the use of a gasket will just make it leak later. Skip the gaskets use Right Stuff Grey.
The only stuff i have found that will prevent the pan from leaking again in the near future is Right Stuff Grey/Import. That is the only gasketing goop I use on anything in contact with oil...
I do also think the use of a gasket will just make it leak later. Skip the gaskets use Right Stuff Grey.
06-03-11, 04:30 PM
#12
Permatex Ultra Black RTV: http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm
"Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, intake manifold end seals, timing covers, transmission pans"
^_^
"Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, intake manifold end seals, timing covers, transmission pans"
^_^
06-03-11, 04:40 PM
#14
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Ultra black has been good to me too, I've done 2 oil pans with it and 1 transmission pan, all have been leak free. It's designed for direct oil contact. Ultra blue on the other hand, will leak like crazy 
06-03-11, 04:47 PM
#15
Dont use ultra RTV anything.
The only stuff i have found that will prevent the pan from leaking again in the near future is Right Stuff Grey/Import. That is the only gasketing goop I use on anything in contact with oil...
I do also think the use of a gasket will just make it leak later. Skip the gaskets use Right Stuff Grey.
The only stuff i have found that will prevent the pan from leaking again in the near future is Right Stuff Grey/Import. That is the only gasketing goop I use on anything in contact with oil...
I do also think the use of a gasket will just make it leak later. Skip the gaskets use Right Stuff Grey.
06-05-11, 07:51 AM
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Well, the jack worked, but it made it pretty damn annoying. I tried using the gaskets and rtv but the oil pan bolts weren't long enough to go through the two gaskets and the Racing Beat baffle plate. So I through them out (nice waste of 70 bucks) and used a layer of rtv on both sides of the baffle plate. So far so good. Unfortunately the original problem of a fucked up slave cylinder I was trying to fix when I did all of this didn't fix my issue, so now I have to wait until I have some money and can buy a master cylinder so I can drive the car again.
06-05-11, 10:37 AM
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None of my local Honda dealerships have Hondabond anymore. They just use Permatex grey, which they say is the same stuff (no idea if that is true).
Without using gaskets on the baffle, you're going to get leaks fairly quickly.
The trick is to just use longer bolts, with both gaskets and RTV. And use large washers on the heads of the bolts to distribute the load. And only torque to about 10 Ft-LBs.
Without using gaskets on the baffle, you're going to get leaks fairly quickly.
The trick is to just use longer bolts, with both gaskets and RTV. And use large washers on the heads of the bolts to distribute the load. And only torque to about 10 Ft-LBs.
06-06-11, 10:22 AM
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PERMATEX RIGHT STUFF is all I ever use on oil pans, differentials, valve covers, water pumps etc..etc and never had a leak. Don't laugh but on a 91 Nissan I had to pull the head and I was too cheap to replace the head gasket. I applied a thin layer of right stuff on both sides and the Nissan is still being driven today-I got lucky...don't try this at home.
06-06-11, 10:37 AM
#21
Right Stuff Grey is exactly the same stuff both toyota and honda use from the factory, use in the dealerships and sell as their prefered gasket making/dressing formula.
Toyota uses a slightly different (orange) variety for gearboxes but its pretty close...
Toyota uses a slightly different (orange) variety for gearboxes but its pretty close...
06-06-11, 11:10 AM
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Ive used vw, dodge, toyota and the rtv stuff. No leaks for me. 9 or 10 years on my 7 with orange rtv, still dry as can be.
Point is, its not so much what you use but how you prep. Actually reading the directions on the tube goes a long ways.
If your getting leaks with rtv its not the product is you
Point is, its not so much what you use but how you prep. Actually reading the directions on the tube goes a long ways.
If your getting leaks with rtv its not the product is you
06-06-11, 11:18 AM
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So you legitimately think I'll get leaks with the rtv and baffle plate? If I do I might just remove the baffle plate and sell it, not going to buy two more gaskets for seventy bucks. We used a thin layer on the engine, then put the awesome rtv on then the plate then rtv on the pan and put it all together. The baffle stuck to the rtv well enough to just let it sit there while we rtv'd the pan. We also spent a lot of time prepping all surfaces. We'll see in a couple weeks when I go to put the master cylinder on. Speaking of, if anyone has one for sale that works, I need it pretty bad. (:
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