Oil Metering Pump Removal Reliability question
#26
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
read the part about the tolerances, i tore the engine down after 4k miles and the tolerances hadn't changed any measurable difference so i'm sure they are still at the lower part of the limits, the only thing i can think of is the side housing wear, mine were within limit but had a decent amount of wear. the side seals, apex and all springs are all new, the only difference i may have between most others is i am running solid corner seals. keep in mind this is cheap *** wal mart oil which is a little thinner than most 2 cycle oils i have used before.
did you guys reuse irons or have them lapped?
did you guys reuse irons or have them lapped?
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 12-13-05 at 02:42 PM.
#30
HAILERS
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Originally Posted by J-Rat
Mazda built my motor.
Rising oil levels, to me, mean there's fuel in the oil and nothing else (well, water could do it I suppose).
#31
Opinions are like........
A used oil analysis will help you in determining why your oil level rises.
Fuel dilution is bad. Water/coolant will lead to sludge.
You would also need to VOA the oil you use along with the 2-stroke oil for comparison.
I expect some of the 2-stroke oil to end up in the motor oil. But, most will burn off or just blow out the exhaust. And, with normal oil consumption from oil seal leakage, I don't see how the level could rise at all.
And, I find that most people don't check their oils consistently. Hot and cold oil will read at different levels. And, certain oil filters will drain back different amounts of oil over time depending on effectiveness of the antidrainbackvalve. The ADBV doesn't work too well on cheap filters.
Fuel dilution is bad. Water/coolant will lead to sludge.
You would also need to VOA the oil you use along with the 2-stroke oil for comparison.
I expect some of the 2-stroke oil to end up in the motor oil. But, most will burn off or just blow out the exhaust. And, with normal oil consumption from oil seal leakage, I don't see how the level could rise at all.
And, I find that most people don't check their oils consistently. Hot and cold oil will read at different levels. And, certain oil filters will drain back different amounts of oil over time depending on effectiveness of the antidrainbackvalve. The ADBV doesn't work too well on cheap filters.
#32
Alcohol Fueled!
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
Gee, you've come a ways since you bought a rebuilt from that outfit that used the front rotor housing in the rear and vice versa. You must have gotten a raise.
Rising oil levels, to me, mean there's fuel in the oil and nothing else (well, water could do it I suppose).
Rising oil levels, to me, mean there's fuel in the oil and nothing else (well, water could do it I suppose).
Yeah, I was a poor Staff Seargant back then.. Now I am a rich Tech Seargant!
#33
Sharp Claws
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ok... this got a bit off track. i could give a **** about the oil level rising so long as it is addressed appropriately and drained regularly and the oil changed at least every 3k miles it is not an issue, i hate it when premixing always turns into a debate over simple things.
#34
Alcohol Fueled!
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Originally Posted by Karack
ok... this got a bit off track. i could give a **** about the oil level rising so long as it is addressed appropriately and drained regularly and the oil changed at least every 3k miles it is not an issue, i hate it when premixing always turns into a debate over simple things.
Karack,
Nobody (at least not me) is debating that it happens. Its just something I never heard of before.
#35
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Originally Posted by Karack
ok... this got a bit off track. i could give a **** about the oil level rising so long as it is addressed appropriately and drained regularly and the oil changed at least every 3k miles it is not an issue, i hate it when premixing always turns into a debate over simple things.
I've been running 2 stroke for 4 years in all my t2's. No oil rising ever experience in none of my vehicles.
Karack, If you think that 2 stroke goes pass side seal to crankase you probably forgot about 2 oil ring on each side of rotor. In general, you get more fuel (from flodding) into oil pan than 2 stroke. you crack me up boy.
#36
No money. No love.
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Oil doesn't rise on mine, BUT once it did. I usually redline my car a few times a day or at least get close to redline. I was heading home and went to floor it (I like hearing my car echoe off the concrete walls) and as I hit 7k right as I shifted I heard a small spraying noise. I wasn't sure what it was so I drove home and popped the hood...oil everywhere. The little nipple that branches off on the filler neck blew off. My car was fine, but cleaning up that oil.... LAME
#37
Sharp Claws
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Originally Posted by petex
what? oil rising? from runnig 2 stroke?
I've been running 2 stroke for 4 years in all my t2's. No oil rising ever experience in none of my vehicles.
Karack, If you think that 2 stroke goes pass side seal to crankase you probably forgot about 2 oil ring on each side of rotor. In general, you get more fuel (from flodding) into oil pan than 2 stroke. you crack me up boy.
I've been running 2 stroke for 4 years in all my t2's. No oil rising ever experience in none of my vehicles.
Karack, If you think that 2 stroke goes pass side seal to crankase you probably forgot about 2 oil ring on each side of rotor. In general, you get more fuel (from flodding) into oil pan than 2 stroke. you crack me up boy.
**** son, you better get off the soap box before i knock you off it...
#38
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Originally Posted by Karack
**** son, you better get off the soap box before i knock you off it...
can you explain us the "oil rising"? I would like to know. I'm affraid it my happend to me.
-pete
#39
7th Heaven
iTrader: (9)
imho... kjeep the stock omp working...
although premix may burn better or whatever, but if most na fc can last 200k with the stock omp, maybe it is good enough...
besides... at theen dof the day, iut is jstu a 2-3k car
it DOES NOT deserve all that kidn fo ****... get hte omp working, drive it, and forget it
although premix may burn better or whatever, but if most na fc can last 200k with the stock omp, maybe it is good enough...
besides... at theen dof the day, iut is jstu a 2-3k car
it DOES NOT deserve all that kidn fo ****... get hte omp working, drive it, and forget it
#40
Originally Posted by slpin
imho... kjeep the stock omp working...
although premix may burn better or whatever, but if most na fc can last 200k with the stock omp, maybe it is good enough...
besides... at theen dof the day, iut is jstu a 2-3k car
it DOES NOT deserve all that kidn fo ****... get hte omp working, drive it, and forget it
although premix may burn better or whatever, but if most na fc can last 200k with the stock omp, maybe it is good enough...
besides... at theen dof the day, iut is jstu a 2-3k car
it DOES NOT deserve all that kidn fo ****... get hte omp working, drive it, and forget it
2. Mazda race teams used premix, and IIRC the LeMans engine could have run for at least another 24 hours before being worn out. I'd wager that 24 hours at LeMans, at the kind of RPM that engine was turning, is more wear & tear than most of our cars see in their life.
3. Are you saying that it's not worth maintaining a cheap car? I have a lot more than $3k in my NA after the rebuild & some other stuff (engine blew at 120k miles), and I would like to see my rebuild last as long as possible. Taking another few minutes at the gas station every fillup doesn't bother me a bit - I normally take close to 10 minutes to get gas, check fluids, clean my windshield, stretch, use the bathroom, etc.
If you don't care a whole lot about your car, or rebuilds don't annoy you (I actually like working on rotary engines, but I prefer driving the car a whole lot more), or your car will be regularly driven by someone who wouldn't be likely to bother with premix, then keep the MOP running. The difference in engine condition (carbon buildup) between a premixed engine & a MOP engine is quite significant.
-=Russ=-
#41
7th Heaven
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1. most na may not see 200k, but the majority of it that didnt make it are from lack of maintainence... stock omp not up to task is one of the last things on the list of reasons why they dont.
2. your 88 se is far from a race car... and there are many reasons why they dont run omp on their race car... from oil consumption to reducing crap on the engine....
3. i am saying... be realistic about the amount of work you are doing. does premix help that much? maybe. are you making enough power to make a difference? maybe. but at the end of the day, the stock omp is more than adequeate for any type of driving. if you "spent the time" and want your engine to work, I would make sure the omp is in good shape and use that. the reliability gain from premix might even be a myth... it is unproven and is only something from bench racing.... not to mention... the one time you forgot to premix probably put more wear on that 250 miles of driving than 5-10k of omped driving. :P
2. your 88 se is far from a race car... and there are many reasons why they dont run omp on their race car... from oil consumption to reducing crap on the engine....
3. i am saying... be realistic about the amount of work you are doing. does premix help that much? maybe. are you making enough power to make a difference? maybe. but at the end of the day, the stock omp is more than adequeate for any type of driving. if you "spent the time" and want your engine to work, I would make sure the omp is in good shape and use that. the reliability gain from premix might even be a myth... it is unproven and is only something from bench racing.... not to mention... the one time you forgot to premix probably put more wear on that 250 miles of driving than 5-10k of omped driving. :P
#42
I'm basing my judgement off people who have torn apart premixed engines and noted that the internals are nearly spotless, as compared to the carbon encrusted rotors that result from the stock MOP.
Also, I don't forget to put premix in. And I don't let anyone else fill up my car.
In another few months to a year, we'll have definite numbers. WAYNE88N/A, being the wonderful geek he is, took detailed measurements of the wear parts on his engine when he tore it apart, and figured out some numbers in terms of "wear per 1k miles" & such. That was with the stock MOP. With the rebuild, he's running premix only. When it gets enough miles on it, he's going to tear it down, measure everything, and we'll have some solid numbers on premix vs MOP wear on internals.
-=Russ=-
Also, I don't forget to put premix in. And I don't let anyone else fill up my car.
In another few months to a year, we'll have definite numbers. WAYNE88N/A, being the wonderful geek he is, took detailed measurements of the wear parts on his engine when he tore it apart, and figured out some numbers in terms of "wear per 1k miles" & such. That was with the stock MOP. With the rebuild, he's running premix only. When it gets enough miles on it, he's going to tear it down, measure everything, and we'll have some solid numbers on premix vs MOP wear on internals.
-=Russ=-
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