Oil cooler leak
#1
Rotatin'
Thread Starter
Oil cooler leak
Recently installed new lines for the oil cooler, as the OEM ones were corroded and leaking. They work great. Ran the car and watched underneath to make sure they were solid. No problem.
Well, after taking it for a quick run today, came back home to realize I was leaking oil again. So I took a look under the car and tried to figure out the source. After poking around a bit, I noticed this (circled) on the bottom of the oil cooler. Is that another banjo bolt and crush washer that should be replaced? I dont see the leak coming from the new lines, so it must be that.... right?
Well, after taking it for a quick run today, came back home to realize I was leaking oil again. So I took a look under the car and tried to figure out the source. After poking around a bit, I noticed this (circled) on the bottom of the oil cooler. Is that another banjo bolt and crush washer that should be replaced? I dont see the leak coming from the new lines, so it must be that.... right?
#3
Rotatin'
Thread Starter
Is that a banjo bolt that could use replacing? Should I do it anyway and see if it still leaks?
#4
Rabbit hole specialist
iTrader: (11)
What you've circled is the thermostat for the oil cooler. There is a crush washer there. If you take it out, be careful, there is a spring in there and it will all pop out at you.
That may or may not be the leak. If you're worried about the wind flinging it all everywhere during a test drive, could always bring it up to temp in the driveway and hope the leak reappears there.
That may or may not be the leak. If you're worried about the wind flinging it all everywhere during a test drive, could always bring it up to temp in the driveway and hope the leak reappears there.
#5
Rotatin'
Thread Starter
What you've circled is the thermostat for the oil cooler. There is a crush washer there. If you take it out, be careful, there is a spring in there and it will all pop out at you.
That may or may not be the leak. If you're worried about the wind flinging it all everywhere during a test drive, could always bring it up to temp in the driveway and hope the leak reappears there.
That may or may not be the leak. If you're worried about the wind flinging it all everywhere during a test drive, could always bring it up to temp in the driveway and hope the leak reappears there.
Will try bringing it up to temp while sitting, to make sure it is the thermostat. But, I'm pretty sure that's where it's coming from. Will update once it's been replaced!
#7
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (1)
I've done something similar before. Only problem is, when I drive it, the air passing under the car causes the oil to get flung everywhere. So any powder I put under there get saturated anyway.
Is that a banjo bolt that could use replacing? Should I do it anyway and see if it still leaks?
Is that a banjo bolt that could use replacing? Should I do it anyway and see if it still leaks?
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#8
Rotorhead for life
iTrader: (4)
OP - as the other guys said, that circled bolt covers the oil cooler thermostat. If it wasn't leaking there before, and you didn't mess with that plug when replacing the lines, it's likely not the source of your new leak. But the suggested test of running the engine till fully hot in the driveway after cleaning the up mess and observing for leaks is the way to go.
If this is your 1st time using AN fittings, and you find the fitting leaking, common mistake that leads to leaks is over-tightening the fittings. The aluminum deforms pretty easily, trashing the sealing surfaces. If there's no tightening spec that came with them, rule of thumb is to tighten the fitting with your hands until it's "finger tight", then use a short stubby wrench to tighten another 1/8 ~ 1/4 turn.
If this is your 1st time using AN fittings, and you find the fitting leaking, common mistake that leads to leaks is over-tightening the fittings. The aluminum deforms pretty easily, trashing the sealing surfaces. If there's no tightening spec that came with them, rule of thumb is to tighten the fitting with your hands until it's "finger tight", then use a short stubby wrench to tighten another 1/8 ~ 1/4 turn.
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