Oh nooo! Mr. Bill, it's Another TID mod question
03-01-02, 04:52 PM
#1
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Oh nooo! Mr. Bill, it's Another TID mod question
[I just spent 30 mins doing a search in vain.]
My question is - does anyone have an exact parts list of what to buy to do this mod to a series 5? For example what length of PVC / what sort of temperature grade, diameters, etc. DETAILS, DETAILS
If you've done this to a 89-91 I'd really appreciate some pointers like a shopping list and dimensions...thanks again!
My question is - does anyone have an exact parts list of what to buy to do this mod to a series 5? For example what length of PVC / what sort of temperature grade, diameters, etc. DETAILS, DETAILS
If you've done this to a 89-91 I'd really appreciate some pointers like a shopping list and dimensions...thanks again!
03-01-02, 05:09 PM
#3
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Originally posted by 1FastT2
Sorry I can't help you but whos Mr. Bill?
Sorry I can't help you but whos Mr. Bill?
Geez!!!
03-01-02, 05:36 PM
#5
Search a little harder
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=25335
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=21338
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=23146
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=25335
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=21338
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=23146
Last edited by rx7_turbo2; 03-01-02 at 05:41 PM.
03-01-02, 06:49 PM
#7
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Originally posted by rx7_turbo2
Search a little harder
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=25335
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=21338
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=23146
Search a little harder
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=25335
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=21338
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=23146
Trending Topics
03-01-02, 07:05 PM
#8
Super Newbie
Mine is a S4, but I used a 3'' 45 degree elbow, and cut the large end of it off so it was 3'' on both ends. Then a 2.5''-3'' coupler and another 3'' coupler. All on the same isle at Home Depot.
03-01-02, 08:42 PM
#10
Originally posted by FEDREX
I already sifted thru those - has about everything except length/type of pvc which is what I was looking for. I'm trying to get around removing and measuring OEM TID to save time.
I already sifted thru those - has about everything except length/type of pvc which is what I was looking for. I'm trying to get around removing and measuring OEM TID to save time.
3"-2 1/2" reducer. 3" 90 degree PVC elbow. Cut the ends off the elbow put it all together and tighten it up. As for doing it with the air pump on, my guess is you could just plumb the line back into the new TID, or put a small crank case filter on the air pump inlet itself.
03-01-02, 09:05 PM
#13
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I bet if you got a 2.5" 90 degree with a 2.5" coupler at the turbo, and the 3" to 2.5" reducer from the AFM to pipe it would fit, but I don't know if that would be much better then the stock one...
03-01-02, 09:24 PM
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Check The Parts Trader
http://www.thepartstrader.com/Single...=101&C2ID=1004
Has anyone seen this ad? I have my own custom made setup. Maybe I can get a picture of it tonight or in the morning.
Has anyone seen this ad? I have my own custom made setup. Maybe I can get a picture of it tonight or in the morning.
03-01-02, 09:40 PM
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I just finished mine today! The following is fitted with the Air Pump still in place!
I got one 3" 45 degree PVC bend and cut the coupler ends off. Cut ( Miter saw ) it to aprox. 35 degrees of bend. Then take a 2 inch straight piece of 3" PVC pipe and used PVC primer and cement to fuse it together. This end goes to the turbo inlet. Then took a 3.5 inch section of the 3" PVC pipe and glued it to the other side. This will mate to the MAF sensor.
Using a 3" to 2" reducer, I attached it to the turbo inlet, then used a 3" coupler to attach to the MAF sensor. bent the stock mount bracket to the MAF to secure it.
(Optional) I plumbed all 3 of the hoses back into the TID using barbed PVC fittings by drilling and JB Welding them in.
Total cost at Home Depot: $19.00
(2) 45 degree 3" PVC bends ( in case I screwed one up)
(1) foot of 3" PVC pipe
(1) 3" to 2" reducer
(1) 3" to 3" coupler
(3) barbed fittings
I was running 8.5 PSI boost before this. I will post new #s after testing tommorrow!
Mike
I got one 3" 45 degree PVC bend and cut the coupler ends off. Cut ( Miter saw ) it to aprox. 35 degrees of bend. Then take a 2 inch straight piece of 3" PVC pipe and used PVC primer and cement to fuse it together. This end goes to the turbo inlet. Then took a 3.5 inch section of the 3" PVC pipe and glued it to the other side. This will mate to the MAF sensor.
Using a 3" to 2" reducer, I attached it to the turbo inlet, then used a 3" coupler to attach to the MAF sensor. bent the stock mount bracket to the MAF to secure it.
(Optional) I plumbed all 3 of the hoses back into the TID using barbed PVC fittings by drilling and JB Welding them in.
Total cost at Home Depot: $19.00
(2) 45 degree 3" PVC bends ( in case I screwed one up)
(1) foot of 3" PVC pipe
(1) 3" to 2" reducer
(1) 3" to 3" coupler
(3) barbed fittings
I was running 8.5 PSI boost before this. I will post new #s after testing tommorrow!
Mike
Last edited by 89turbo2dutch; 03-01-02 at 09:53 PM.
03-01-02, 10:10 PM
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Definitely too much but...
Still a good idea. I made my own out of parts I got at Autozone of all places. Mine cost more, but it is made out of aluminum and has fittings for the BOV and PCV. The only extra connector I purchased was a 3" coupler from Home Depot. It even looks good. I will post a picture tommorow.
Oh, and mine has a 3" filter, NOT the airbox. It could fit the box, but not with an air pump.
Oh, and mine has a 3" filter, NOT the airbox. It could fit the box, but not with an air pump.
Last edited by gorockrx; 03-01-02 at 10:18 PM.
03-02-02, 11:53 PM
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Whoops, I forgot the pics. Here they are!
Sorry, forgot to get the picture during daylight. they turned out ok, but tell me what you think of this setup.
This is the best shot of the TID itself.
This is the best shot of the TID itself.
Last edited by gorockrx; 03-03-02 at 12:01 AM.
03-03-02, 12:16 AM
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Shots of the whole intake
Still needs a little work, and a cold air box, but with another 45 degree coupler and a small piece of the pipe I cut, I could get it to hook up to the original airbox to be cold air. I was just trying this way first. I was planning on installing my FMIC instead of the OE Box.
Front shot of intake
Side picture
and last one
I hope that is helpfull. It is changeable to fit the IC pipes and or the OE box. I was planning to box this out and let some cold air in if I kept the OE IC.
With a FMIC I was going to pipe some air in to the filter, but I havn't got that far yet. Still working on other issues like over 15psi due to this intake and a full RB Exhaust!!! Wastegate is heavily ported already, so I think its not working right. MUST FIX ASAP!
Later......
Front shot of intake
Side picture
and last one
I hope that is helpfull. It is changeable to fit the IC pipes and or the OE box. I was planning to box this out and let some cold air in if I kept the OE IC.
With a FMIC I was going to pipe some air in to the filter, but I havn't got that far yet. Still working on other issues like over 15psi due to this intake and a full RB Exhaust!!! Wastegate is heavily ported already, so I think its not working right. MUST FIX ASAP!
Later......
03-03-02, 02:21 AM
#22
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Here's something I posted a little while ago, it's a description of what I did to my last car, it's pretty similar to gorockrx's TID:
My last was a 1984 Mazda Cosmo, complete with factory 12A Turbo. The airbox/AFM/TID/turbo setup was almost identical to the FC RX-7. I replaced everything except the AFM.
I replaced the TID with a Ø2.5" 45º mandrel bent steel tube about 10" long (nice swept bend) which I had flared up to 3" at the AFM end and HPC coated (just for looks), this was coupled to the turbo and AFM with rubber couplers and hose clamps (I didn't have a BOV so no connection was needed). I made a bracket (also HPC'd) to support the AFM. I replaced the airbox with the biggest K&N pod filter I could fit (3" neck), and made a cool little stainless steel square-to-round adapter to fit it to the AFM (I've got a cast HKS one on my FC). The pod filter was isolated from the engine bay with an aluminium shield and fed cold air from a 3" scoop under the bumper. The performance increase was huge (especially when you consider it cost stuff-all because I made it all myself) and it looked really trick. As soon as I get my FC's wastegate ported, this is exactly what I'm going to do, because I know how well it works.
BTW, personally I wouldn't use PVC, I think it looks a bit budget!
My last was a 1984 Mazda Cosmo, complete with factory 12A Turbo. The airbox/AFM/TID/turbo setup was almost identical to the FC RX-7. I replaced everything except the AFM.
I replaced the TID with a Ø2.5" 45º mandrel bent steel tube about 10" long (nice swept bend) which I had flared up to 3" at the AFM end and HPC coated (just for looks), this was coupled to the turbo and AFM with rubber couplers and hose clamps (I didn't have a BOV so no connection was needed). I made a bracket (also HPC'd) to support the AFM. I replaced the airbox with the biggest K&N pod filter I could fit (3" neck), and made a cool little stainless steel square-to-round adapter to fit it to the AFM (I've got a cast HKS one on my FC). The pod filter was isolated from the engine bay with an aluminium shield and fed cold air from a 3" scoop under the bumper. The performance increase was huge (especially when you consider it cost stuff-all because I made it all myself) and it looked really trick. As soon as I get my FC's wastegate ported, this is exactly what I'm going to do, because I know how well it works.
BTW, personally I wouldn't use PVC, I think it looks a bit budget!
05-13-02, 03:51 PM
#23
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hey gorockrx can you email the pics to VMB2000@YAHOO.COM
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