So after putting my dash in, with everything working i decide to reinstall the cd player. Ive installed a heap of cd players so I'm not an idiot, all my speakers are running off an amp so all I have to install is acc, +, -, remote. Simple right? Well I got the colour codes out of the FAQ, checked that the + wire (blue w/red stripe) was right by earthing it out, it sparked and the fuse blew. Sweet replaced fuse and soldered the wires in. Replaced the fuse. Then the acc wire (blue w/white stripe) earthed it out nothing, turned key to acc, sparked. Soldered it together and then attached the ground.

Then I hook up the head unit and it has no power. I've checked the fuse in the head unit and its good. I double checked the audio fuse down in the foot well and its fine, tried another fuse in it, nothing.

I then desoldered the connection and im getting nothing out of the acc wire or the + wire. WTF has happened, am I missing a fuse somewhere?

 

After a search I found out that the room fuse was blown and felt like a bit of an idiot. Went and re soldered everything to find out that it still doesn't work.

Probably also worth noting is my suspension controller (tein EDFC) is spliced into the stereo loom as well. When i connect the power wire to it it beeps, but wont turn on. I'm pretty stumped here

 

I don't get why you cant edit unless its straight after you made the post. More searching has found that it is the ACC wire that has died. If i hard wire them to the + wire everything works. Any ideas what the problem could be?? (thanks in advance hailers lol)

 

When you were messing with the ignition pigtail the other day do you remember what color wire the Blue wire connected to? That particular wire connects to the interior fuse box and provides power to the accessory fuse. Do either of these wires have voltage on them when the key is turned to ACC? If not, then the Blue/White wire will not have voltage to it assuming the fuse and fuse box connections are in working order.

Also, use a multimeter set to volts DC to check for the presence of voltage on a wire, and not putting a wire with voltage to ground! There's simply no reason to do so.

 

Yeah i'll pull that off later and have a look. Now this i find even weirder, I went and brought a multimeter today as I had been using my dads back when I lived there and haven't needed one for a while now. Plug it in, I get 12v DC on the positive wire as expected. But what is odd, is its giving me 11v on the acc wire, when the key is to acc. But the stereo/suspension controller wont work unless the acc wires on them are connected to the constant + wire in the car, and when the acc wire is making the 11v it wont earth out and spark on anything. WTF! Im thinking I might just hard wire the stereo and controller in for the moment and search deeper into this problem on the weekend.

Oh and as for the comment about using a multi meter. Thats all I had and it was 7 at night so I couldn't go and get one.

 

**** MY LIFE! I just drive off to go get dinner and now my windows have stopped working. I have a decent gremlin it seems

 

With the key to "on," do your turn signals work? If they do then the B/W wire from the ignition switch, which supplies the "IG1" fuses in the interior fuse box, has voltage. One of the IG1 fuses is a 30 amp fuse which powers the power windows. Eminating from this 30 amp fuse is a Black/Red wire which feeds voltage to the power window switch. Is the fuse in working order and does this B/R wire have voltage with the key to "on." You could check for voltage on this wire as it plugs into the window switch in the driver's side armrest.

 

^+1
Good clarification, Satch!

The thing that I've found - especially when dealing with not just FCs but ANY 20+ year-old car, in general, is that you're almost better off wiring everything in, manually, as opposed to trying to bridge and splice the OEM wires.

While it may seem like more work, it's less of a hemorrhoid, in the long run.