Glease Man

iTrader: (5)

Just got my rebuild back together. When I stab the CAS, it's always maxed out clockwise... I know without a doubt I put the timing gear on correctly, so I'm ruling that out. (Large chamfer side down) The engine was like that last year as well.

I thought it was maybe a pulley and hub combo problem, but I swapped it out for another and the same thing...

I've seen all of the pictures of correctly stabbed CAS's, so I'm pretty cinfident I'm doing it right.

Any input? Could I possibly still have the wrong pulley and hub on? The engine came without one originally.

Thanks!

VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

Did you pop off the cap and kept in from
moving? The gear inside will move a few
teeth. I use a flat head screw driver to keep it
from moving . You can't get it to completely still
but it's pretty close when you check timing then adjust
from there.

I assume you know there's an align mark on the bottom
gear right?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

When you have a pulley and hub combo off the engine, you can tell if it is correct/original/matched or not. Hold the keyway up at 12 oclock and the leading timing mark (furthest clockwise of the two) should be at exactly 3 oclock, 90 degrees from the key. If not, then the timing marks are not accurate and you should either toss or re-mark that set.

Are you holding the rotor with your thumbs when installing the CAS? When you install the CAS you line up the dot and notch on the bottom gear/body, then hold the rotor on top with your thumbs, slide the CAS slowly into the front cover, aim for roughly the middle of the adjustment slot to line up with the stud (or hole) on the front cover, feel the gear engage, and then lower the CAS while allowing it to spin slightly clockwise until it seats fully. When you are done you should put the stud (or bolt) about 1/4" from the left side of the adjustment slot, or put another way if you divided the adjustment slot into 3 equal sections then the bolt/stud should be sitting exactly at the 1/3 division line. Now look at the two sided rotor on top, and it should be about 1/8" away (counterclockwise if I recall correctly) from the two black pickups in the CAS body.

If you get it in this position you can check your timing with a light and you probably won't even have to move it at all, maybe 1/16" at most, to get the timing set.

Any CAS position not in the left 1/3 of the adjustment range means something is not right.

Glease Man

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the fast replies!

Yes I do have the cover off, I keep it from moving on the way in. I yanked the hub off and it appears to be at 90 degrees. Hard to tell exactly, but looks very close....

Something doesn't add up..

Glease Man

iTrader: (5)

Fixed! I was using the wrong pulley and hub. Swapped them and the CAS clocks perfectly. Now let's see if it runs!