you have a cavalier too? haha.. my 2.2l has 92hp and 102 ft/lbs torque. BAHA! what a joke. its the most reliable car i've had so far (but now that i got the GXL, i think it has some competition)

im not a fan of using a torch in the engine bay.. ill probably use one of our impact guns at work..

the ones we have are used for unbolting wheel nuts on tractors and trailers.. you only need 450-500 ft/lbs on them, but those guns can put way more on it

ok so lemme get this straight

heres the bolt

C/-----

(sorry for the lack of ansi characters )

use some RTV at the "/" and threadlock (a medium locker or a super locker?) at the "------"

 

I tryed the tourch. No luck so far. The bolt will not move. I try the starter method....broke the breaker bar (craftsman).

How long did you cook the bolt. I try for 2-3 min. Should I go longer?

 

broke the breaker bar (craftsman).
be sure to go to Sears and get another one. They should just swap out the old for the new without cost to you.

 

I went at it for like... I dunno.. 30-45 sec, tops.

You're not using a propane torch, are you?

they don't get very hot... If you have to use one of those, surround the bolt with as much flame as possible, then as soon as you are done heating it grab the breaker bar and YANK on it and it should come off... it still won't be easy, but it will be MUCH MUCH easier.

 

yeah.....I only have a propane torch. I will give your idea a try, right after I go back the sears to get my free replacement for my breaker bar. Got to love that lifetime warranty.

 

I went at it for like... I dunno.. 30-45 sec, tops.

You're not using a propane torch, are you?

they don't get very hot... If you have to use one of those, surround the bolt with as much flame as possible, then as soon as you are done heating it grab the breaker bar and YANK on it and it should come off... it still won't be easy, but it will be MUCH MUCH easier.

 

yeah you gotta use a real torch..

if you can, get your hands on impact air tools..

(i know i still havent got the pellet in so i cant say it works the best)

but at work we do alot of major engine repairs on turbo diesel trucks, anything we cant get off with a breaker bar, we use an impact gun. if the gun doesnt work, we use a torch then the gun.

as a last resort (i wouldnt recommend this because our shop is a rich rich shop ) we weld a large steel bar to the bolt we are trying to remove and that will get it off.

(obviously afterwards we just buy a new bolt.. but welding it to a bar has only happened once or twice..)

 

bump

is this completely safe?

im still worried about the torrington bearing. after reading tutorials from FC3S and Mazdatrix, im a little more nervous.

they insruct to hold the clutch pedal down, but HOW can you loosen the bolt while the clutch is down? the engine turns over! i tried holding the alternator pulley bolt, and the belt slips and the main pulley still turns. i tried all sorts of things.

the only thing i could conclude is to leave it in 1st gear, and that will keep it from turning over while trying to remove the bolt

but to do this the clutch must be OUT, not in (obviously). FC3S and Mazdatrix clearly stated that before you even loosen the bolt at all to have the clutch held in..

anyone?!?!

 

leave the clutch out until you've broken the bolt loose, then hold it in.

 

thats what i mean though - is that a completely safe thing to do?

from what i read the clutch should be in during the whole procedure..

just wanted to double check..

 

I don't know, as I've never done it this way, but, think about it.

If you break the nut loose and turn it 1/4 of a turn, that's not going to give much room for **** to fall places.

 

i was thinking the same thing, but it doesnt hurt to double check.. i was going to do that, but i decided against it - just didnt feel comfortable without posting in the forum and getting some responses first.

 

bump - comments from anyone else?