Black13B

iTrader: (1)

the oil bypass valve

so i was reading up on it, and i have also spoken with a few people who have done it

some people STRESS that while you remove the bolt with the valve and spring on it, you hold the clutch down the whole time to prevent the pulleys from moving which may make some type of "bearing" or something fall

other people have failed to include this in instructions (on various websites)

other people have said if you use an air powered gun to take it off, the movement of the gun is so quick that it wont matter

other people say just leave it in gear and that should be enough.

im a little nervous to do this myself, because this is my summer car, and.. its the summer! the cav is put away for the summer..

just curious to know who has done this, how they did it, and what they did to prevent those parts from falling downwards if the pulleys moved..

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

damn.. almost off the 1st page..

bump

Relisys190

iTrader: (4)

Icemark where are you. i'll give you what i know

You have to wedge the cluch IN with a brick, or something

this will keep your E-shaft from coming out of alignment. once you get the clutch wedged to the floor, install a VERY large wrench on the Main pully bolt install a breaker bar onto the wrench,rest it along the chassis and turn the key in your car. dont turn it to where it will start, just a blip of the key, to make it turn over... this will instantly loosen the nut, and you can begin to do the oil pellet mod.. I'm sure others will endure their knowledge. Icemark! where are you.

-Markus

good luck Colin

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

im a little skeptical about turning the key during this..

part of knowing how to prevent damage is understand what your trying to prevent..

im not positive whats going on down there when im doing it, so i just wanted to know how everyone else did it..

icemark gave me pictures and everything on how to do it, i dont recall now if he touched on the topic im curious of now.. but anyways.. after speaking with a few other rotary mechanics, im curious to know who has done this and how they did it, because everyone i've talked to has a different procedure..

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

bump

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

bump

NO ONE has ever taken out that 1 bolt and is willing to tell a story about it?!

Relisys190

iTrader: (4)

Damn, i can't believe no one has correctly reply'd yet. that's the best info i have.. but im sure there's others out there who've done it

-Markus

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

thats why i keep bumpin it up - i cant believe no one else has replied either..

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

bump dammit!

come on guys i know SOME OF YOU have at LEAST taken that bolt out..

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

WHEE!

its TERRH to the RESCUE! well, not really, but I have a story.

First, that BITCH is a ******* PAIN to get off.

I've got a cavalier too, and even IT wasn't strong enough to budge that bolt. Then I used fire. (A torch) and it came right off with a ratchet.

As far as keeping the pullies from moving, why? This doesn't make any sense to me, you're not moving anything with a bearing around, how can you damage anything? Anyways, you are probably going to have to use fire to get that thing off. After that, it should be pretty easy. Put the washers on, and put it back in.

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

THANK YOU FOR POSTING!

well see im not familiar with the area

i was just reading that something can fall downwards internally that isnt easily traceable, so "make sure the pulleys dont move."

i was confused and already asked a few people.. some said "who cares?" others say "what bearing?" others say "it wont happen unless you let it run.. or something" others say "DONT LET IT TURN OR ELSE INSTANT DEATH!"

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

augh ma gawd!

i think im about to get the "thread most times bumped" award

im shocked no one has any input!

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Terrh to the rescue? Terrh should be shot! The front pulley applies pressure to a spacer, and upon the spacer sits the thrust bearings, when you remove the pulley, nothing's holding that spacer in place, so it(thrust bearing) falls behind the spacer, and then you go and tighten the bolt up to 300lbs, and imagine what that does to your bearing! It crushes that ****** and ruins your day! ALWAYS hold the clutch in, this will force the eccentric shaft forward and hold that spacer in place so it can't flop around.

hIGGI

iTrader: (7)

i gunned it out with engine out of car, no problems at all...checked the bearing before putting it back....

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Higgi: did you have the engine sitting on the flywheel? That's how they suggest to do it, so that gravity holds it in place.

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

ahh ok i see.. THANK you for getting into more detail sonicrat..

so, hold the clutch the entire time? or.. hold the clutch while you losen the nut, and while your retorquing?

i didnt realize it was meant to be done while sitting on the flywheel..

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

I did mine with the engine out of the car too, and took no precautions.. my car still runs...

is there a possibility that I fucked something up? Should I take this apart, like,NOW and see if there's a problem?

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

yeah im curious to know if.. i will KNOW if that bearing comes lose and gets crushed.. like.. what would come of the engine if that were to happen?

HAILERS

Read: http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

Notice it says in the first sentence or so *WHAT CAN HAPPEN*, not will happen. They are trying to help you prevent a costly mistake.

Prior to reading the above url, I had taken the pulley and bolt out and replaced the oil bypass valve and had no problem. Before putting the bolt back in, I made the measurement called out in the fsm for the front pulley hub install. See the fsm for this measurement. ENGINE section, reassymbly part.

Its this way. What if your not lucky? The needle bearing falls down. The measurement does not measure up. Whoopeeee. Now you get to pull the front cover off the engine plus all that is infront of the front cover. Nice way to spend the weekend.

Its safer to wedge the clutch in with a stick/broom handle/ long piece of wood, real heavy brick/ your choice of objects.

The front pulley bolt, if installed right, should have had some thread locker put on the threads. Thread locker does what???? Yes. That makes it tough to get the bolt off if you don't have an impact wrench. There are ways around that but the air/electric impact wrench is the way to go. The bolt is put on with thread locker and a bunch or that torque stuff. Pounds of it.

Read the url above.

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

wow that URL was helpful man.. now i understand what's going on in there..

thanks HAILERS!

i would imagine i would have used an impact gun in the first place to get it off..

torque specs - 65-80 ft lbs on it still? is that accurate or does anyone want to argue it?

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

OK... I took NO PRECAUTIONS LIKE THIS AT ALL. I've run the car and driven around, put maybe 500-1000 KM on it.

IF this bearing fell out of place, would I have damage by now? Would the car still run? What would the symptoms be? My car seems to work just fine, but... what could happen if this bearing fell out of place?

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

i would imagine that your LUCKY and nothing happened to ya!

but to be honest im curious about the symptoms and such as well..

HAILERS

Wellllllllllllll...........my 87fsm says 80-98 ft/lb. It also says *apply a locking agent to the lock bolt threads. And apply a coat of sealant to the flange face of the lock bolt. And install the lock bolt together with a new copper washer.* The sealant I used is just a good smear of black RTV. They say the grey is better.

If you have no air impact wrench, you might try to put a two foot long craftsman breakover bar with 19mm socket on the bolt. Rest the breakover bar on the car frame on the left side, then bump the starter. That acts like a impact wrench, sorta, kinda. Works for me. IF you just get on it with a breakover and try to take it off by hand, you have to somehow lock the engine up.

This information is in the ENGINE section of the fsm under the subheading *assy*. There are free, online fsm at http://www.iluvmyrx7.com The 88 manual is there.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

and if that doesn't work, use fire.

I tried the starter method and nothing happened, aside from me burning a wire to the starter.

So, I put a 6 ft pole on the breaker bar and went at it that way. No luck. Attached my cavalier to the pole, broke the breaker bar.

Gave up, used a torch, it came right off.

Really, a torch is the way to go.

Fingers

i took no precautions either, and used a really powerful impact wrench. car ran quite a while, but engine died for a different reason. Coolant jacket.