2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Not your usual antiflood question

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Old 04-01-02 | 08:44 PM
  #26  
Salguod's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Melbourne, FL
Originally posted by Icemark


Simple question.

Did it do that new? Or did the flooding issue appear after a while?

If it started having the problem after, say 30k miles; then that again points to an mechanical issue in the car. If it had the issue from the first day it rolled off the dealers lot (as I doubt) then it could really be a computer bug.

If you are the 6th owner and don't know if it did it new (as I suspect) I would first fix the mechanical issues with the car before installing any sort of aftermarket switch or delay or other band aid.

Ok simple answer. Yes when these cars were brand spanking new they didn't do it. When they had perfectly balanced compression on each side of each rotor, they did not do it. When they had no carbon built up anywhere in the intake, engine, or exhaust they did not do it. Yes when the car was brand new it was able to overcome the fact that the computer was pumping way more fuel into the engine than it needed to start when the engine was warm/hot.

So yes, if I were to put a brand new intake, engine, ignition, fuel injection and exhaust system in the car every 30k miles, then yes my car would start almost every time for the next 30k miles. But for those of us in the real world, we install an aftermaket device so that we can get 125k miles or better out of our non-perfect engines.

The fact is that the early T2 computers dump too much fuel into the engine during a hot start condition, even when the cars were new.

Simply putting new injectors, ignitors, solenoids, or spark plugs can in some cases relieve this particular problem for a while, but it always returns. The use of a fuel cut switch or a fuel pump solenoid delay circuit quickly and permanently solves this particular problem in early T2s every time.

If you don't want to believe me then fine.

If you want to read a little more about this problem, or if anyone is interested in a delay circuit similar to one I built myself for my car check out this site:

http://www.our.net.au/~pnt/afm/rx7_RX7.html


I'm Done,
Salguod
Old 04-01-02 | 09:27 PM
  #27  
NZConvertible's Avatar
I'm a boost creep...
 
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Auckland, New Zealand
From that website:
Please do not ask for information on how they work etc as this information and design is proprietary and will not be disclosed
That's because they don't want you to know you're being charged $98 for $3 of electrical components in a $5 plastic box!
Salguod, I'd be interested to know how you made yours. Others probably would too. I'm sure it would be a very simple circuit easily constructed by anyone who can read a schematic and solder components. This is such a common problem this info needs to be available the same way the TeamFC3S DIY FCD is.
Old 04-24-02 | 08:48 PM
  #28  
Salguod's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Melbourne, FL
Originally posted by NZConvertible
From that website: That's because they don't want you to know you're being charged $98 for $3 of electrical components in a $5 plastic box!
LOL

Thats about right.... I actually had everything I needed to build mine lying around the shop except for for the transistors.

If you have a little electronics know-how, and if you have a good library near you try to find a Book called "The Encyclopedia of Electronic Circuits" by Rudolf F. Graf. In it, look up the "Precision Solid State Time Delay Circuit." That’s the one to build. Its pretty cheap and fairly easy to build.

Be careful though, if you really don't know much about electonic circuitry, then the $100 investment is still cheaper than a new ECU if something goes wrong.

Later
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