Not too sure about these AFR's
05-17-06, 02:39 PM
#1
Drive.
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Not too sure about these AFR's
Alright...just installed the rtek 2.0. It's set to 550/720 (I actually have 750's in the secondary). The rtek was showing an intake air temp sensor error...turns out the plug had fallen off...plugged it back in and now the error is gone. So...there are no errors...so I decide to take the car out finally, with the new ecu.
Well, I have an innovate lc-1/xd-1 wideband setup. I took the car just up the street, but I never got on it at all because just at cruising in 1st and 2nd gear not boosting at all between 2-3k rpms...I'm getting 14.5-14.8 afr's on the wideband. That seems pretty high to me....or is that about right without boosting?
Anyway, not wanting to chance anything, I turned around and came back to the house...and look at the pda...now there is an o2 sensor error...with the #'s 0020 and 0000 at the bottom.
The ecu doesn't use the wideband signal does it? ( I didn't install the WB) The o2 sensor error seems to come and go.
How long do I need to wait after running the car to recalibrate the WB? I wanna do this just to make sure it's reading correctly.
The rest of my mods are as follows
88tII
street ported motor
s5 turbo
ported WG
full RB racing exhaust (no cats)
true CAI
Walbro 255
750cc marren secondaries
rtek 2.0
all emissions removed
Well, I have an innovate lc-1/xd-1 wideband setup. I took the car just up the street, but I never got on it at all because just at cruising in 1st and 2nd gear not boosting at all between 2-3k rpms...I'm getting 14.5-14.8 afr's on the wideband. That seems pretty high to me....or is that about right without boosting?
Anyway, not wanting to chance anything, I turned around and came back to the house...and look at the pda...now there is an o2 sensor error...with the #'s 0020 and 0000 at the bottom.
The ecu doesn't use the wideband signal does it? ( I didn't install the WB) The o2 sensor error seems to come and go.
How long do I need to wait after running the car to recalibrate the WB? I wanna do this just to make sure it's reading correctly.
The rest of my mods are as follows
88tII
street ported motor
s5 turbo
ported WG
full RB racing exhaust (no cats)
true CAI
Walbro 255
750cc marren secondaries
rtek 2.0
all emissions removed
05-17-06, 03:19 PM
#2
Seduced by the DARK SIDE
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Orange Park FL (near Jax)
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After driving a block, the sensor should be hot enough for a free air calibration.
I assume you're still running the stock O2 sensor along with the wideband sensor.
High 14's are perfect for cruising, unless you want to waste fuel & shoot flames.
If the stock sensor is bad, you can try using the LC-1's simulated narrow band output for the rtec.
I assume you're still running the stock O2 sensor along with the wideband sensor.
High 14's are perfect for cruising, unless you want to waste fuel & shoot flames.
If the stock sensor is bad, you can try using the LC-1's simulated narrow band output for the rtec.
05-17-06, 03:26 PM
#3
Drive.
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Originally Posted by SureShot
After driving a block, the sensor should be hot enough for a free air calibration.
I assume you're still running the stock O2 sensor along with the wideband sensor.
High 14's are perfect for cruising, unless you want to waste fuel & shoot flames.
If the stock sensor is bad, you can try using the LC-1's simulated narrow band output for the rtec.
I assume you're still running the stock O2 sensor along with the wideband sensor.
High 14's are perfect for cruising, unless you want to waste fuel & shoot flames.
If the stock sensor is bad, you can try using the LC-1's simulated narrow band output for the rtec.
Can I do a free air calibration without removing the o2 sensor? I thought I read somewhere that you could do one after the car had set for "X" # of hours to let the exhaust in the pipes dissapate.
Do you know the specifics on wiring up the lc-1 to the rtek 2.0 to use it as the narrowband output? I'll try to do some research on it...but if you know off the top of your head...that'd be good too
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