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Not Leaking and Not Clicking either

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Old 01-31-11, 08:37 PM
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Not Leaking and Not Clicking either

Ok, so I picked up a set of fuel injectors from a junk yard....450cc from an S4 they looked to be in decent shape.

So when I brought them home I decided to test them with my 12V adapter and the following was discovered: 3 of them are not clicking and one of them has a really faint click. I sprayed them with carb cleaner but no luck.

Can anyone please tell me if I ended up with a trash set or whats going on, I know there are places that offer service for $25 per injector and thats really more than I'm willing to pay for. Any suggestions?
Old 02-01-11, 01:12 AM
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Forgive my poor grammar from above, been too much around fuel lately.....
Anyways, I tested the ohms of the injectors from above compared to the DENSO injectors that came from my S4, my DENSO ones measure 12.5-12.6 Ohms where as the ones I got from the junk measure 2.0 Ohms consistently. It appears, to me anyways, that the coils are fine...? Although, I cant figure out why there would be difference in Ohms? Both sets have the same 195500-1350 number, except the one from the junk yard has no brand name, all it has "10" on the back. Anyone have a clue if the S4 injectors varied from car to car, or could it be that these injectors have been replaced at one point?
Old 02-01-11, 06:11 AM
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Yeah the jerks made low and high resistance injectors with the same part number. The color of the injectors should be a bit different though.

I've no idea why they would not click. Put one pin to positive and the other touch with a negative batt lead momentarilyand they should make a click each time you touch the injectors other pin with the neg batt lead.
Old 02-01-11, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by HAILERS2
Yeah the jerks made low and high resistance injectors with the same part number. The color of the injectors should be a bit different though.

I've no idea why they would not click. Put one pin to positive and the other touch with a negative batt lead momentarilyand they should make a click each time you touch the injectors other pin with the neg batt lead.
is there any good towards high resistance?

Are you saying to hook it up to the car battery?

Last edited by JK5S; 02-01-11 at 07:29 PM.
Old 02-01-11, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by JK5S
is there any good towards high resistance?
Are you asking if high resistance is better than low resistance injectors?
Old 02-01-11, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
Are you asking if high resistance is better than low resistance injectors?
Yea, In this case I have 2 Ohm vs 12.5 Ohm, which is better?
Old 02-01-11, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by JK5S
Yea, In this case I have 2 Ohm vs 12.5 Ohm, which is better?
You can use both I gather but you need the inline resistors for the low impedance injectors and not for the high impedance injectors if this makes any sense.
Old 02-01-11, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
You can use both I gather but you need the inline resistors for the low impedance injectors and not for the high impedance injectors if this makes any sense.
Is there a problem with using low resistance injectors on a car that has no resistor box?
Old 02-01-11, 08:39 PM
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I'm not sure how you have been testing the injectors. Some people use D cell batteries and whatever.

I just use a old injector clip with wires still in place. I put the clip on the injector. Then put one of the wires on the positive post of the battery and then momentarily touch the other wire on the clip to the neg lead of the battery. The injector should click when you do that. As in open/**** as you momentarily touch the lead to the battery.

I'm talking about the connector that goes on the fuel injectors. I use a old one with the wires still on the injector plug. About a foot of wire left on the injector plug. Then do what I just tried to describe.

Make sense????? If not say so and we'll try again.

Just in case: the idea is to put a wire from the battery positive post to one of the pins on the fuel injector. Then put another wire on the batt neg post and momentarily touch the other pin on the fuel injector. Injector WILL click doing that.

And no, you should not use the low impedence injectors on the car without the solenoid resistor package. It may take several months or more, but sooner but probably later, either the ECU injector drivers will give up or the fuel injector itself will give up.

So since you already have the EM harness that does not have the solenoid resistor package........keep on using the high resistance injectors.
Old 02-01-11, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by HAILERS2
I'm not sure how you have been testing the injectors. Some people use D cell batteries and whatever.

I just use a old injector clip with wires still in place. I put the clip on the injector. Then put one of the wires on the positive post of the battery and then momentarily touch the other wire on the clip to the neg lead of the battery. The injector should click when you do that. As in open/**** as you momentarily touch the lead to the battery.

I'm talking about the connector that goes on the fuel injectors. I use a old one with the wires still on the injector plug. About a foot of wire left on the injector plug. Then do what I just tried to describe.

Make sense????? If not say so and we'll try again.

Just in case: the idea is to put a wire from the battery positive post to one of the pins on the fuel injector. Then put another wire on the batt neg post and momentarily touch the other pin on the fuel injector. Injector WILL click doing that.

And no, you should not use the low impedence injectors on the car without the solenoid resistor package. It may take several months or more, but sooner but probably later, either the ECU injector drivers will give up or the fuel injector itself will give up.

So since you already have the EM harness that does not have the solenoid resistor package........keep on using the high resistance injectors.
Thanks man, it makes perfect sense. I was using a 12 volt adapter from a hard drive its rated at like 2 amps; my 9 volt batteries kept getting drained out. I was just unsure if you were referring to the car battery (bad for the internal injector coils).

My S4 doesn't come with a resistor box so I wont attempt to use them.
Old 02-01-11, 09:25 PM
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colours mean not a lot after 25 years of fading and vague net descriptions


they both have the same number
but the hi ohm version ( saturated injector,, late 1987 ) has the injector clip locating notch offset
,, while the earlier low ohm ( peak hold ) injector has a central notch


this theme is common to separate hi and low ohming injectors with the EV1 plug

you can force the wrong plug over the clip but they are fragile and the clip will break there
you can file the offset notch off the injector if using replacement EV1 injector clip connectors

PS
you injectors show normalish ohms ( 2.5 is what i expect from early ones )
the injectors may free up with a tap and a quick short across the battery
but the professional sonic clean and rekit is almost mandatory

if your stubborn and handy there is kits ( of various styles suit various configs ) to home service the injectors
and you tube how to's


i have a bucket of s4/s5 turbo and NA injectors of all descriptions and i wouldnt trust my engine on any of them without a clean and service
- well worth the money

as is just buying new 1000 cc injectors and going from there
( if you have stand alone ECU , turbo and boost fetish )
Old 02-01-11, 09:42 PM
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Oops. I got this thread mixed up with another thread I've been writing on. That's why the mention of the solenoid resistor package. Forget that part and more or less heed the rest of what I wrote.

I've never harmed a fuel injector using the battery for power. I just momentarily touch the lead to the battery.
Old 02-01-11, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bumpstart
colours mean not a lot after 25 years of fading and vague net descriptions


they both have the same number
but the hi ohm version ( saturated injector,, late 1987 ) has the injector clip locating notch offset
,, while the earlier low ohm ( peak hold ) injector has a central notch


this theme is common to separate hi and low ohming injectors with the EV1 plug

you can force the wrong plug over the clip but they are fragile and the clip will break there
you can file the offset notch off the injector if using replacement EV1 injector clip connectors

PS
you injectors show normalish ohms ( 2.5 is what i expect from early ones )
the injectors may free up with a tap and a quick short across the battery
but the professional sonic clean and rekit is almost mandatory

if your stubborn and handy there is kits ( of various styles suit various configs ) to home service the injectors
and you tube how to's


i have a bucket of s4/s5 turbo and NA injectors of all descriptions and i wouldnt trust my engine on any of them without a clean and service
- well worth the money

as is just buying new 1000 cc injectors and going from there
( if you have stand alone ECU , turbo and boost fetish )
You are absolutely right about not trusting them without cleaning. I had a bad experience with cleaning them myself using the carb cleaner with a fuel injector hose and a 12 volt source. What ended up happening is one of the crud pieces from inside the injector broke off and jammed the injector wide open making the needle stuck and not wanting to move. I had to play around with it for quite some time until I finally have freed it. So my lessons is learned as of last night, I will have to try out Witchhunter performance place, they seem to do a great deal of work for the $19/Inj. price.
Old 02-07-11, 11:57 PM
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Here's some good info about injectors and why the injector part numbers are the same but the resistance is different.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ctor_info.html

I would recommend trying to find the correct injectors rather than going through the effort of adding resistor packs to your harness.
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