Not Leaking and Not Clicking either
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Not Leaking and Not Clicking either
Ok, so I picked up a set of fuel injectors from a junk yard....450cc from an S4 they looked to be in decent shape.
So when I brought them home I decided to test them with my 12V adapter and the following was discovered: 3 of them are not clicking and one of them has a really faint click. I sprayed them with carb cleaner but no luck.
Can anyone please tell me if I ended up with a trash set or whats going on, I know there are places that offer service for $25 per injector and thats really more than I'm willing to pay for. Any suggestions?
So when I brought them home I decided to test them with my 12V adapter and the following was discovered: 3 of them are not clicking and one of them has a really faint click. I sprayed them with carb cleaner but no luck.
Can anyone please tell me if I ended up with a trash set or whats going on, I know there are places that offer service for $25 per injector and thats really more than I'm willing to pay for. Any suggestions?
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Forgive my poor grammar from above, been too much around fuel lately.....
Anyways, I tested the ohms of the injectors from above compared to the DENSO injectors that came from my S4, my DENSO ones measure 12.5-12.6 Ohms where as the ones I got from the junk measure 2.0 Ohms consistently. It appears, to me anyways, that the coils are fine...? Although, I cant figure out why there would be difference in Ohms? Both sets have the same 195500-1350 number, except the one from the junk yard has no brand name, all it has "10" on the back. Anyone have a clue if the S4 injectors varied from car to car, or could it be that these injectors have been replaced at one point?
Anyways, I tested the ohms of the injectors from above compared to the DENSO injectors that came from my S4, my DENSO ones measure 12.5-12.6 Ohms where as the ones I got from the junk measure 2.0 Ohms consistently. It appears, to me anyways, that the coils are fine...? Although, I cant figure out why there would be difference in Ohms? Both sets have the same 195500-1350 number, except the one from the junk yard has no brand name, all it has "10" on the back. Anyone have a clue if the S4 injectors varied from car to car, or could it be that these injectors have been replaced at one point?
#3
Rotary Freak
Yeah the jerks made low and high resistance injectors with the same part number. The color of the injectors should be a bit different though.
I've no idea why they would not click. Put one pin to positive and the other touch with a negative batt lead momentarilyand they should make a click each time you touch the injectors other pin with the neg batt lead.
I've no idea why they would not click. Put one pin to positive and the other touch with a negative batt lead momentarilyand they should make a click each time you touch the injectors other pin with the neg batt lead.
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Yeah the jerks made low and high resistance injectors with the same part number. The color of the injectors should be a bit different though.
I've no idea why they would not click. Put one pin to positive and the other touch with a negative batt lead momentarilyand they should make a click each time you touch the injectors other pin with the neg batt lead.
I've no idea why they would not click. Put one pin to positive and the other touch with a negative batt lead momentarilyand they should make a click each time you touch the injectors other pin with the neg batt lead.
Are you saying to hook it up to the car battery?
Last edited by JK5S; 02-01-11 at 07:29 PM.
#9
Rotary Freak
I'm not sure how you have been testing the injectors. Some people use D cell batteries and whatever.
I just use a old injector clip with wires still in place. I put the clip on the injector. Then put one of the wires on the positive post of the battery and then momentarily touch the other wire on the clip to the neg lead of the battery. The injector should click when you do that. As in open/**** as you momentarily touch the lead to the battery.
I'm talking about the connector that goes on the fuel injectors. I use a old one with the wires still on the injector plug. About a foot of wire left on the injector plug. Then do what I just tried to describe.
Make sense????? If not say so and we'll try again.
Just in case: the idea is to put a wire from the battery positive post to one of the pins on the fuel injector. Then put another wire on the batt neg post and momentarily touch the other pin on the fuel injector. Injector WILL click doing that.
And no, you should not use the low impedence injectors on the car without the solenoid resistor package. It may take several months or more, but sooner but probably later, either the ECU injector drivers will give up or the fuel injector itself will give up.
So since you already have the EM harness that does not have the solenoid resistor package........keep on using the high resistance injectors.
I just use a old injector clip with wires still in place. I put the clip on the injector. Then put one of the wires on the positive post of the battery and then momentarily touch the other wire on the clip to the neg lead of the battery. The injector should click when you do that. As in open/**** as you momentarily touch the lead to the battery.
I'm talking about the connector that goes on the fuel injectors. I use a old one with the wires still on the injector plug. About a foot of wire left on the injector plug. Then do what I just tried to describe.
Make sense????? If not say so and we'll try again.
Just in case: the idea is to put a wire from the battery positive post to one of the pins on the fuel injector. Then put another wire on the batt neg post and momentarily touch the other pin on the fuel injector. Injector WILL click doing that.
And no, you should not use the low impedence injectors on the car without the solenoid resistor package. It may take several months or more, but sooner but probably later, either the ECU injector drivers will give up or the fuel injector itself will give up.
So since you already have the EM harness that does not have the solenoid resistor package........keep on using the high resistance injectors.
#10
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I'm not sure how you have been testing the injectors. Some people use D cell batteries and whatever.
I just use a old injector clip with wires still in place. I put the clip on the injector. Then put one of the wires on the positive post of the battery and then momentarily touch the other wire on the clip to the neg lead of the battery. The injector should click when you do that. As in open/**** as you momentarily touch the lead to the battery.
I'm talking about the connector that goes on the fuel injectors. I use a old one with the wires still on the injector plug. About a foot of wire left on the injector plug. Then do what I just tried to describe.
Make sense????? If not say so and we'll try again.
Just in case: the idea is to put a wire from the battery positive post to one of the pins on the fuel injector. Then put another wire on the batt neg post and momentarily touch the other pin on the fuel injector. Injector WILL click doing that.
And no, you should not use the low impedence injectors on the car without the solenoid resistor package. It may take several months or more, but sooner but probably later, either the ECU injector drivers will give up or the fuel injector itself will give up.
So since you already have the EM harness that does not have the solenoid resistor package........keep on using the high resistance injectors.
I just use a old injector clip with wires still in place. I put the clip on the injector. Then put one of the wires on the positive post of the battery and then momentarily touch the other wire on the clip to the neg lead of the battery. The injector should click when you do that. As in open/**** as you momentarily touch the lead to the battery.
I'm talking about the connector that goes on the fuel injectors. I use a old one with the wires still on the injector plug. About a foot of wire left on the injector plug. Then do what I just tried to describe.
Make sense????? If not say so and we'll try again.
Just in case: the idea is to put a wire from the battery positive post to one of the pins on the fuel injector. Then put another wire on the batt neg post and momentarily touch the other pin on the fuel injector. Injector WILL click doing that.
And no, you should not use the low impedence injectors on the car without the solenoid resistor package. It may take several months or more, but sooner but probably later, either the ECU injector drivers will give up or the fuel injector itself will give up.
So since you already have the EM harness that does not have the solenoid resistor package........keep on using the high resistance injectors.
My S4 doesn't come with a resistor box so I wont attempt to use them.
#11
talking head
colours mean not a lot after 25 years of fading and vague net descriptions
they both have the same number
but the hi ohm version ( saturated injector,, late 1987 ) has the injector clip locating notch offset
,, while the earlier low ohm ( peak hold ) injector has a central notch
this theme is common to separate hi and low ohming injectors with the EV1 plug
you can force the wrong plug over the clip but they are fragile and the clip will break there
you can file the offset notch off the injector if using replacement EV1 injector clip connectors
PS
you injectors show normalish ohms ( 2.5 is what i expect from early ones )
the injectors may free up with a tap and a quick short across the battery
but the professional sonic clean and rekit is almost mandatory
if your stubborn and handy there is kits ( of various styles suit various configs ) to home service the injectors
and you tube how to's
i have a bucket of s4/s5 turbo and NA injectors of all descriptions and i wouldnt trust my engine on any of them without a clean and service
- well worth the money
as is just buying new 1000 cc injectors and going from there
( if you have stand alone ECU , turbo and boost fetish )
they both have the same number
but the hi ohm version ( saturated injector,, late 1987 ) has the injector clip locating notch offset
,, while the earlier low ohm ( peak hold ) injector has a central notch
this theme is common to separate hi and low ohming injectors with the EV1 plug
you can force the wrong plug over the clip but they are fragile and the clip will break there
you can file the offset notch off the injector if using replacement EV1 injector clip connectors
PS
you injectors show normalish ohms ( 2.5 is what i expect from early ones )
the injectors may free up with a tap and a quick short across the battery
but the professional sonic clean and rekit is almost mandatory
if your stubborn and handy there is kits ( of various styles suit various configs ) to home service the injectors
and you tube how to's
i have a bucket of s4/s5 turbo and NA injectors of all descriptions and i wouldnt trust my engine on any of them without a clean and service
- well worth the money
as is just buying new 1000 cc injectors and going from there
( if you have stand alone ECU , turbo and boost fetish )
#12
Rotary Freak
Oops. I got this thread mixed up with another thread I've been writing on. That's why the mention of the solenoid resistor package. Forget that part and more or less heed the rest of what I wrote.
I've never harmed a fuel injector using the battery for power. I just momentarily touch the lead to the battery.
I've never harmed a fuel injector using the battery for power. I just momentarily touch the lead to the battery.
#13
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colours mean not a lot after 25 years of fading and vague net descriptions
they both have the same number
but the hi ohm version ( saturated injector,, late 1987 ) has the injector clip locating notch offset
,, while the earlier low ohm ( peak hold ) injector has a central notch
this theme is common to separate hi and low ohming injectors with the EV1 plug
you can force the wrong plug over the clip but they are fragile and the clip will break there
you can file the offset notch off the injector if using replacement EV1 injector clip connectors
PS
you injectors show normalish ohms ( 2.5 is what i expect from early ones )
the injectors may free up with a tap and a quick short across the battery
but the professional sonic clean and rekit is almost mandatory
if your stubborn and handy there is kits ( of various styles suit various configs ) to home service the injectors
and you tube how to's
i have a bucket of s4/s5 turbo and NA injectors of all descriptions and i wouldnt trust my engine on any of them without a clean and service
- well worth the money
as is just buying new 1000 cc injectors and going from there
( if you have stand alone ECU , turbo and boost fetish )
they both have the same number
but the hi ohm version ( saturated injector,, late 1987 ) has the injector clip locating notch offset
,, while the earlier low ohm ( peak hold ) injector has a central notch
this theme is common to separate hi and low ohming injectors with the EV1 plug
you can force the wrong plug over the clip but they are fragile and the clip will break there
you can file the offset notch off the injector if using replacement EV1 injector clip connectors
PS
you injectors show normalish ohms ( 2.5 is what i expect from early ones )
the injectors may free up with a tap and a quick short across the battery
but the professional sonic clean and rekit is almost mandatory
if your stubborn and handy there is kits ( of various styles suit various configs ) to home service the injectors
and you tube how to's
i have a bucket of s4/s5 turbo and NA injectors of all descriptions and i wouldnt trust my engine on any of them without a clean and service
- well worth the money
as is just buying new 1000 cc injectors and going from there
( if you have stand alone ECU , turbo and boost fetish )
#14
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Here's some good info about injectors and why the injector part numbers are the same but the resistance is different.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ctor_info.html
I would recommend trying to find the correct injectors rather than going through the effort of adding resistor packs to your harness.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ctor_info.html
I would recommend trying to find the correct injectors rather than going through the effort of adding resistor packs to your harness.
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