Not even a chance to idle... it just dies...help please!!!
#1
Not even a chance to idle... it just dies...help please!!!
Ok.. before, i adjusted the tps and the car ran fine with an ok idle... i sat the car in the garage for 2 weeks... now it wont even idle at all, it just dies when u lift the gas. On idle reving, itll start the hessitate and very hard to get pass 3k or so, unless i step on it a lot more. I did a compression check and both came out in the 90s front and rear. Can it be a vac leak or the BAC valve or throttle stop screw??? i dont know
please let me know, i want to get the car to Rotary Fest!!!
Thanks
please let me know, i want to get the car to Rotary Fest!!!
Thanks
#7
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
if you have a propane torch just turn it on but do not light it, go around the UIM and intake ducts with the engine running and if the idle increases or smooths out then you are close to a leak in the system. you can also do this with carburetor or brake cleaner but those are more of a fire risk however will net better results at finding a vacuum leak. always have a fire extinguisher handy while doing tests like this.
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#11
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
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Pull the vac hose off the BOV and plug it. Does that allow it to idle? If it does then the BOV is the problem. If it doesn't then check all the other hoses for a large leak, including the TID.
All of the warning lights should come on when you tyurn the ignition on, and then go out when the engine starts.
All of the warning lights should come on when you tyurn the ignition on, and then go out when the engine starts.
Last edited by NZConvertible; 06-20-06 at 05:36 AM.
#12
I checked for Vac leaks and i really cant find any big leaks or leaks at all. I think the previous owner of the car changed a lot of hose's at Hose Techniques a couple of weeks b4 i bought the car. But i can check again later.
So I guess the chances of it being stuff like throttle cable(knocked off a few times) or BAC or stuff like that is pretty low??
So I guess the chances of it being stuff like throttle cable(knocked off a few times) or BAC or stuff like that is pretty low??
#14
hook an air compressor up through an intake line, and plug the the afm with a plug from home depot. listen for leaks. as has been said, you probably have an vacuum leak. It really doesn't take to big of a leak to make your car not run/run like ****. a throttle cable would not cause your car to bog out and die.
#19
Originally Posted by twilight slide
sounds like time to upgrade. . . 3" aluminium TID
Oh, i just checked it, there isnt any cracks or anything, but the end where it meets the turbo is melted and a little goo-ey. Ill post pics if i ever find out how. Also there was 2 small holes (the size of a cue tip end) on the TID that was just left open. Can that be where my problem lyes??? As well as the melted part??
#20
check your atmospheric pressure sensor...if it's faulty or if the hose got knocked off...it'll make your engine idle rough or erratically...to the point where it stalls...
#21
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
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The atmospheric pressure sensor is either in the cabin (S4) or in the ECU (S5), and doesn't have a hose. I'm guessing you mean the manifold pressure sensor.
A faulty sensor won't cause this but a disconnected vac line will. He did say he checked the hoses though...
A faulty sensor won't cause this but a disconnected vac line will. He did say he checked the hoses though...
#23
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
your TID should be completely sealed, any leaks could cause the AFM to shut after startup and kill the fuel pump so plug off the holes or fabricate a new TID. normally there is a BOV recirculation hole and one for crankcase pressure to vent into the intake, if you have those bypassed or vented externally then plug those holes.
#25
Ok, so i pluged the leaks while im waiting for the couplers... I tighten the throttle cable screw, tightened all the couplers/clamps and it idles a lot better. It now jumps between 800 and 1200. I just realized the BAC screw was missing, can i replace that with another normal screw? (if so, what size and length)
Heres the tricky part, every time i engine brake the car to slow it down, the car dyes when i press on the cluth at low RPMs... but if i shift it to nuetral and let it roll to the stop itll be a little better.... any ideas???
Thanks
Heres the tricky part, every time i engine brake the car to slow it down, the car dyes when i press on the cluth at low RPMs... but if i shift it to nuetral and let it roll to the stop itll be a little better.... any ideas???
Thanks