Non/Turbo W/Nos
10-26-05, 01:44 AM
#1
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Non/Turbo W/Nos
I was thinking of hooking a nos system in my non turbo.
What do you guys think? is that a good idea?
Because my engine is running very well and is reallly expensive and not worth it to convert it into a turbocharged! Ill rather buy another turbo engine which now is not an option!
have any of you tried or sen one?
What do you guys think? is that a good idea?
Because my engine is running very well and is reallly expensive and not worth it to convert it into a turbocharged! Ill rather buy another turbo engine which now is not an option!
have any of you tried or sen one?
10-26-05, 02:05 AM
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rotaries take nitrous very well as long as you dont overdo it. ALWYAS stick with a wet kit IMHO.
I usually stick under 75hp shots, just because any higher and your risk the fuel pump or other components laggins behind, and thus inducing detonation.
there are a lot of guides around. a good one on 1300cc or something. ive got to find it
edit: here ya go http://www.1300cc.com/ under 2nd gen
I usually stick under 75hp shots, just because any higher and your risk the fuel pump or other components laggins behind, and thus inducing detonation.
there are a lot of guides around. a good one on 1300cc or something. ive got to find it
edit: here ya go http://www.1300cc.com/ under 2nd gen
Last edited by jono20; 10-26-05 at 02:10 AM.
10-26-05, 11:46 AM
#5
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Originally Posted by Jager
Last I checked Ted doesn't support Nitrous.
There's too many things that can go wrong.
Having 900+psi of gas pressure should give you a clue!
Small shots are fine - around 50hp.
Big shots are just too hard of a hit to a "delicate" rotary engine.
If you know what you are doing, it's okay.
The key is ignition timing.
Stand-alone EMS would be best.
Keep in mind a non-turbo 13B makes about 100 to 120hp at the wheels.
In the other thread, you're talking about EASILY DOUBLING THAT.
On the original motor with 100k miles on it?
You gotta be kidding me...
The engine needs to be rebuilt with stronger parts to take the power increase; it's just common sense.
-Ted
10-26-05, 11:54 AM
#7
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Hardened (stat) gears
Deeper bearings
Higher oil pressure regulator
FD corner seal springs
I prefer Mazda OEM apex seals - even more so since all new ones from the Mazda dealer are 2-piece.
You need to run colder plugs.
Anything colder than 9's are fricken expensive!
Luckily there's those "bike" spark plugs - B10EV? but you need that special socket to install and remove them.
Remember to back the ignition timing down!
-Ted
Deeper bearings
Higher oil pressure regulator
FD corner seal springs
I prefer Mazda OEM apex seals - even more so since all new ones from the Mazda dealer are 2-piece.
You need to run colder plugs.
Anything colder than 9's are fricken expensive!
Luckily there's those "bike" spark plugs - B10EV? but you need that special socket to install and remove them.
Remember to back the ignition timing down!
-Ted
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