no start. and i have searched.
#1
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no start. and i have searched.
alright.
i normally would have to deflood the car once every few weeks. the last two times i pulled out all the plugs, put some atf in the lower plug holes, cranked it over for 20 seconds, put the plugs in and it fired up and started fine for a few days.
then, drove it home, shut it off. 12 hours later went to start it, and it didn't. attempted the deflooding process numerous times.
finally installed a fuel pump.
still is not working.
I have done the radio shack code reader, the led's come on for a few seconds then kick off. about 10 seconds later the LED from DCCI-1 flashes only one pulse every few seconds. and maintains the one pulse.
Could this be the crank angle sensor?
I have also read about the clutch interlock switch. Could it be that?
I really need some help here before I soak the car in gas and watch it burn.
Thanks
i normally would have to deflood the car once every few weeks. the last two times i pulled out all the plugs, put some atf in the lower plug holes, cranked it over for 20 seconds, put the plugs in and it fired up and started fine for a few days.
then, drove it home, shut it off. 12 hours later went to start it, and it didn't. attempted the deflooding process numerous times.
finally installed a fuel pump.
still is not working.
I have done the radio shack code reader, the led's come on for a few seconds then kick off. about 10 seconds later the LED from DCCI-1 flashes only one pulse every few seconds. and maintains the one pulse.
Could this be the crank angle sensor?
I have also read about the clutch interlock switch. Could it be that?
I really need some help here before I soak the car in gas and watch it burn.
Thanks
#4
Check the resistance with the multimeter set to ohms. Disconnect the plug to the CAS and w/the nub of the plug positioned on top then place one lead into the upper right terminal and the other lead into the lower right terminal and the reading should fall between 110 to 210 ohms. Do the same thing for the other two terminals and it should also fall within the same range.
The interlock switch, being part of the start circuit, allows this circuit to do one of two things. It provides the starter solenoid with voltage to trigger the starter to turn over and it also provides the ECU a signal that the car is attempting to start and to choose how much gas should be required to start the car, which brings the water thermosensor into play. On an S4 the start signal can be measured at pin 3B. While the engine is cranking pin 3B will show voltage around 8 to 10 volts, which is dependent on the condition of the battery.
Also, in case of flooding issues it is always prudent to check the water themosensor to see if it is operating according to spec. Again, on an S4 the output signal of the sensor can be measured at pin 2I and has the voltage range of .4 to 1.8 volts during a warm start and 2 to 3 volts on a cold start.
The interlock switch, being part of the start circuit, allows this circuit to do one of two things. It provides the starter solenoid with voltage to trigger the starter to turn over and it also provides the ECU a signal that the car is attempting to start and to choose how much gas should be required to start the car, which brings the water thermosensor into play. On an S4 the start signal can be measured at pin 3B. While the engine is cranking pin 3B will show voltage around 8 to 10 volts, which is dependent on the condition of the battery.
Also, in case of flooding issues it is always prudent to check the water themosensor to see if it is operating according to spec. Again, on an S4 the output signal of the sensor can be measured at pin 2I and has the voltage range of .4 to 1.8 volts during a warm start and 2 to 3 volts on a cold start.
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