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#1
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So i did a t2 swap into my friends car and now it wont fire up. It def ran in the car before. Ive done what ive read on threads about no spark or no start. The main relay clicks when i turn the key on. The wire going to the coils all contain 12v. Fuses all arond are good and not blown. But im just not getting spark. i know the pump works because i hot wired it really quick to check and it turned on . It turns over but no start. I need the car running by the end of the month because im moving nevada and want to give the car back to my friend before i move.
#2
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Pick up a $3 spark checker from harbor freight. See if there is spark on the primaries. Check for trouble codes. Check to see if the tach is registering during cranking, or stays at zero (tach signal comes from trailing coil). Pull up the right side carpet, get down to the ecu, backprobe the pins, and check the voltages against those published in the FSM; they have two sets of readings specified; one for ignition on/not running, the other at idle. Pay special attention to the voltage from the water thermosensor, tps, the two intake air temp sensors, the AFM, and the two signals from the crank angle sensor (you will have to crank while checking those).
Double check the routing of the ignition wires. Re-stab the crank angle sensor (reset initial timing).
Double check the routing of the ignition wires. Re-stab the crank angle sensor (reset initial timing).
#5
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The Main Relay feeds the fuel injectors and the ECU plus you need the ENGINE fuse to be good for that relay to pull in.
The ECU gnd wires have to be installed on top of the rear rotor housing for the spark/fuel injection to happen.
Pins 31 and 3J of the small plug of the ECU,. have to have power on them with key ON.
The light green......light green/red........light green/white and light green/black wires on the small plug have to have power on them for injeciton to happen.
I suggest you don't have power on 3I and 3J and or the ECU gnds wires are not grounded on top of the rear rotor housing. NOT the rear side housing.........the rear ROTOR housing. Two black wires on a RING terminal bolted to the left of centerline of the rear ROTOR housing.
A clue as to whether that gnd is bolted on or NOT, is to turn the key ON and jumper the fuel pump check connector that is yellow in color and has but two sockets. IF the pump does not runs, the gnd is probably not bolted down. OR just push the vane in the AFM aft at least a quarter inch instead and see if the pump runs with key ON. Either way the ECU gnd has to be bolted down for the pump to run doing these two things.
The ECU gnd wires have to be installed on top of the rear rotor housing for the spark/fuel injection to happen.
Pins 31 and 3J of the small plug of the ECU,. have to have power on them with key ON.
The light green......light green/red........light green/white and light green/black wires on the small plug have to have power on them for injeciton to happen.
I suggest you don't have power on 3I and 3J and or the ECU gnds wires are not grounded on top of the rear rotor housing. NOT the rear side housing.........the rear ROTOR housing. Two black wires on a RING terminal bolted to the left of centerline of the rear ROTOR housing.
A clue as to whether that gnd is bolted on or NOT, is to turn the key ON and jumper the fuel pump check connector that is yellow in color and has but two sockets. IF the pump does not runs, the gnd is probably not bolted down. OR just push the vane in the AFM aft at least a quarter inch instead and see if the pump runs with key ON. Either way the ECU gnd has to be bolted down for the pump to run doing these two things.
#6
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ah ok. well im going to try and take the harness off a non running t2 and swap it out. This is cause the harness given to me during the swap was modified. Might as welll change it to see if that harness was the culprit. thanks for the input
#7
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Most all elect problems can be figured out using a simple digital meter that cost maybe fifteen bucks or less from Harbour Freight.
Either power is at the ECU or not. If not then find out why the Main Relay isn't passing it on to the ECU and fuel injectors/coils.
http://images.harborfreight.com/manu...8999/98025.pdf
Just put the negative meter lead on a ground like the engine/chassis and the positive lead on the wire in the connector your wanting to look at. Meter on DC Volts........20v scale.
EDIT: Make that five bucks.
Either power is at the ECU or not. If not then find out why the Main Relay isn't passing it on to the ECU and fuel injectors/coils.
http://images.harborfreight.com/manu...8999/98025.pdf
Just put the negative meter lead on a ground like the engine/chassis and the positive lead on the wire in the connector your wanting to look at. Meter on DC Volts........20v scale.
EDIT: Make that five bucks.
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#8
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sorry the weather here has been crazy rain so i never had the chance to check the car.
So the car just cranks.
I borrowed my friends voltmeter only to find out the screen is a lil messed up. Quick question in order to get the reading does harness have to be pluged into the ecu? Cause i tried to check the voltage on 3J and it gave no voltage.
So the car just cranks.
I borrowed my friends voltmeter only to find out the screen is a lil messed up. Quick question in order to get the reading does harness have to be pluged into the ecu? Cause i tried to check the voltage on 3J and it gave no voltage.
#9
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so i got a better working volt meter and mostly everything was checkin out. So i decided to go through the fused again.
The egi fuse was actually blown. But the cut was like so hair thing u could barely tell it was blown untill u really put it close to ur eyes. ill try to take a photo of it later.
So the car finaly started.. Thanks guys for your help.
The egi fuse was actually blown. But the cut was like so hair thing u could barely tell it was blown untill u really put it close to ur eyes. ill try to take a photo of it later.
So the car finaly started.. Thanks guys for your help.
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