No spark 89 t2 searched
#26
2- the plug at the ecu is it still the large plug? or one of the other 2? and when testing for proper ohms. i would would have set my tester to ohms and test the resistance of the same color wires as i did when i tested it on the CAS its self correct? according to the FSM.. sorry about all the questions i just wanna be sure i get the right idea before i waste time and test it wrong when i get home today..
thanks again satch.
#28
Now I get no voltage when I did test 1 mentioned above. Green/ylw wire on the ecu and hand turned the motor. So I went to check it at the coil. Positive to the grn/ylw plug negative to the battery. I did not get 12v.
Resistance from wht red and blue wires are in 165 170 ohms range.
But I noticed 2 things. One. Now the car wont crank at ALL. Just here the click and then nothing.
2.
The green wire that is on the cas. Cuz there is 4.. red wht blu and green.. but on the ecu side the green wire is soldered to the red wire directly and not in the plug. Idk if that matters.
So now with this new no crank symptom. What do I do?
#33
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if you have another cas on hand, just try it. it takes 2 minutes. ohming is only useful for finding opens and shorts. it absolutely does not qualify a component under load. even though all fsm of all makes/models specify it as the primary method for testing. i'm sure satch would agree on that. the cas is the most common cause for the condition. it is the component under the most stress. that, and the coil packs
sorry for barginig in here. i mean no disrespect. i understand the value of performing a diagnostic in the correct order to solve. but sometimes you have to weigh it in. try a quick and dirty. and if it doesn't solve, carry on with the flow chart. do not, however, go off on a tangeant of replacing parts
sorry for barginig in here. i mean no disrespect. i understand the value of performing a diagnostic in the correct order to solve. but sometimes you have to weigh it in. try a quick and dirty. and if it doesn't solve, carry on with the flow chart. do not, however, go off on a tangeant of replacing parts
#39
Ok. I'm gonna have a buddy come this Sunday and help me out.
If I dint get the 5v even the motor is hand spun then what? And if I do?
I want to be pro active and find out as much as I can do I don't have to go back and forth and try one thing at time on the forum.
If the engine sits for too long I'm screwed
If I dint get the 5v even the motor is hand spun then what? And if I do?
I want to be pro active and find out as much as I can do I don't have to go back and forth and try one thing at time on the forum.
If the engine sits for too long I'm screwed
#42
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If the engine is turning over via starter then it would rotate too fast to read the 5 volt signal. Did you ever ohm out the CAS at the plug which connects to the ECU or not ( not at the CAS plug itself but the plug carrying the CAS wires to the ECU. And make sure the engine ground is good.
#43
If the engine is turning over via starter then it would rotate too fast to read the 5 volt signal. Did you ever ohm out the CAS at the plug which connects to the ECU or not ( not at the CAS plug itself but the plug carrying the CAS wires to the ECU. And make sure the engine ground is good.
#44
so i sent the car to lucky 7. found out the issue was related to a previous problem i had with the AFM wire being spliced by the previous owers hack job. but the issue is fixed and i can move on to the next fix.
thank you satch for your time and patience.
thank you satch for your time and patience.
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