No High Tension Trailing Spark
#1
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No High Tension Trailing Spark
Hello everybody,
So I went to go adjust the timing on my 86 N/A and found that the T1 coil wasn't even igniting. So I swapped the coils with a set that came from a running car adn still no spark. I switch the plugs out and still no spark.
The car can sit and idle at 1k but the problem I currently have with the car right now is that if you step on the gas you have to step on it very lightly or else it will sputter drop the rpm's and die.
Does anybody think these 2 plroblems are related? or might it be something with the fuel system?
Thanks
-Jon
So I went to go adjust the timing on my 86 N/A and found that the T1 coil wasn't even igniting. So I swapped the coils with a set that came from a running car adn still no spark. I switch the plugs out and still no spark.
The car can sit and idle at 1k but the problem I currently have with the car right now is that if you step on the gas you have to step on it very lightly or else it will sputter drop the rpm's and die.
Does anybody think these 2 plroblems are related? or might it be something with the fuel system?
Thanks
-Jon
#2
I assume the tach is working, so with the car at idle, use insulated pliers and pull the T1 plug wire off and put it to ground and see if a spark jumps. If it does there's spark and try new plugs.
Some say the inductive timing light won't function properly at times, but check the above first to make certain there's spark. Once you see spark, that will eliminate the coils and wires, but it doesn't mean the plugs are firing though.
Without getting into a long dissertation, some S4's had a problem with trailing plugs.
Some say the inductive timing light won't function properly at times, but check the above first to make certain there's spark. Once you see spark, that will eliminate the coils and wires, but it doesn't mean the plugs are firing though.
Without getting into a long dissertation, some S4's had a problem with trailing plugs.
#3
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The trailings are not really going to effect how the engine runs that much. The leadings are responsible for 99% of combustion.
First, how are you checking for trailing spark? If you are using a timing light then you need to use a spark tester, or just a spark plug laying on the shock tower or something. Timing lights do not reliably trigger.
If you really don't have any spark on the trailings and you have already replaced the coils, check the ignitors. There are check procedures in the Factory Service manual.
If the ignitors check out, make sure you have 12V at the black/yellow wire on the plug to the ignitors.
If you have 12V, then use as scope to verify you have a trigger signal from the ECU.
First, how are you checking for trailing spark? If you are using a timing light then you need to use a spark tester, or just a spark plug laying on the shock tower or something. Timing lights do not reliably trigger.
If you really don't have any spark on the trailings and you have already replaced the coils, check the ignitors. There are check procedures in the Factory Service manual.
If the ignitors check out, make sure you have 12V at the black/yellow wire on the plug to the ignitors.
If you have 12V, then use as scope to verify you have a trigger signal from the ECU.
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I suggest you have the wires on the wrong plugs or there is a major problem with the engine. Outside of the loss of the tach, I can't notice any difference in the running of the car with no trail coil working.
Pay attention to the remarks about the tach. IF the tach works, then it's almost a given the trail coils are working.
Pay attention to the remarks about the tach. IF the tach works, then it's almost a given the trail coils are working.
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OK so I check for spark by arching is and found that I do have spark from all coils. I checked that the ignitors were getting 12v also.
I'm still having a problem with being able to give it gas... WHen I try to feather the gas to try and move the car is just dies. But if you slowly push the pedal I can get it up to high RPM's. I'm thinking this might be related to the fuel system or a something with what values the ECU is getting.
Anybody have any ideas on what component might be causing this?
I'm still having a problem with being able to give it gas... WHen I try to feather the gas to try and move the car is just dies. But if you slowly push the pedal I can get it up to high RPM's. I'm thinking this might be related to the fuel system or a something with what values the ECU is getting.
Anybody have any ideas on what component might be causing this?
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I just found that my injector clips (sescondary injectors) the plastic part was broken but stillconnected into the injector and still seem to work (you could hear the injector).
Do you guys think the primary injewctors are messed up therefore not allowing me to feather the gas?
Thanks
-Jon
Do you guys think the primary injewctors are messed up therefore not allowing me to feather the gas?
Thanks
-Jon
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#8
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my T1 coil died resulting in power loss, tach stopped working and running with alot of mis's. replaced the T1 coil, all those problems went away.
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O right good point Karack I'm going to check the fuel filter right now becuase I know the car has been sitting for a while with the same gas (only a couple gallons).
Also do you thinkt he fuel pump could be dying out on me? This is probably unlikely, since I let the car idle the other day for about 30 min. Andit more so seems like something is clogged.
I'll be back
Also do you thinkt he fuel pump could be dying out on me? This is probably unlikely, since I let the car idle the other day for about 30 min. Andit more so seems like something is clogged.
I'll be back
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1. Secondary injectors do not work unless your over 3500 rpm and are under a load.The only exception to that is if the pressure sensors vacuum hose is disconnected, then they only work if over 3500 and you don't need a LOAD.
2. It sounds like your sparkplug wires are on wrong. The front, or lead coil wires go to the bottom plugs on the engine. It matters not which goes to the front/rear for THOSE.
The Trail wires go to the top sparkplugs. The T1 to the front top plug and the T2 you can figure out. The lettters T1 and T2 are embossed on the coil assy.
3. There's a small possibility the tps is scrogged. Remove it's plug and see if things get better/worse.
2. It sounds like your sparkplug wires are on wrong. The front, or lead coil wires go to the bottom plugs on the engine. It matters not which goes to the front/rear for THOSE.
The Trail wires go to the top sparkplugs. The T1 to the front top plug and the T2 you can figure out. The lettters T1 and T2 are embossed on the coil assy.
3. There's a small possibility the tps is scrogged. Remove it's plug and see if things get better/worse.
#12
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Ok I'm back and found that a clogged fuel filter is not the case.
1. Wait so HAILERS I think I might have found my problem. I have confirmed the secondary injectors are clicking at idle. This means that the person who had the motor before me must have wired them incorrectly.
2. As far as the plug wires go, they are hooked up correctly, the coil up front L1 and L2 are connected to the bottom plugs on the block. The coil near the firewall is the 2 trailing coils which connect to the top plugs on the block.
3. I've tried 3 different TPS's of which didn't make a difference to how the motor was acting. When I unplugged it it still didn't help how the motor is acting.
I definitly think something is wrong with the wiring on the motor. I got this motor 2 weeks ago and it has 130k. Now looking at the motor it doesn't look rebuilt it just looks liek the whole thing was taking apart down to the short block and new gaskets were placed.
1. Wait so HAILERS I think I might have found my problem. I have confirmed the secondary injectors are clicking at idle. This means that the person who had the motor before me must have wired them incorrectly.
2. As far as the plug wires go, they are hooked up correctly, the coil up front L1 and L2 are connected to the bottom plugs on the block. The coil near the firewall is the 2 trailing coils which connect to the top plugs on the block.
3. I've tried 3 different TPS's of which didn't make a difference to how the motor was acting. When I unplugged it it still didn't help how the motor is acting.
I definitly think something is wrong with the wiring on the motor. I got this motor 2 weeks ago and it has 130k. Now looking at the motor it doesn't look rebuilt it just looks liek the whole thing was taking apart down to the short block and new gaskets were placed.
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