No fuel past injectors
08-20-09, 03:46 AM
#1
WON'T FORGET DAVE
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No fuel past injectors
Ok I'm need some opinions. I'm using an na harness to run a full s4 t2 setup.
I am getting no fuel past the injectors. I have fuel pressure and its flowing the right way. I can spin the CAS and they are clicking but I get no fuel. I have 12v at the light blue wires that are in the first ecu plug when the key is on and the plug is out. I have 2 ohms and 12v at the injectors.
The only thing I can think of is that I forgot to wire in the resistors and was cranking without them for awhile but it never started. Is is possible that I damaged the injectors? I even swapped the primaries and secondaries after I remembered to wire in my resistors. (They are wired in on the light blue wires) After that the primaries clicked and dripped (not sprayed) for a minute but soon after returned to only clicking with no fuel.
Any ideas?
I am getting no fuel past the injectors. I have fuel pressure and its flowing the right way. I can spin the CAS and they are clicking but I get no fuel. I have 12v at the light blue wires that are in the first ecu plug when the key is on and the plug is out. I have 2 ohms and 12v at the injectors.
The only thing I can think of is that I forgot to wire in the resistors and was cranking without them for awhile but it never started. Is is possible that I damaged the injectors? I even swapped the primaries and secondaries after I remembered to wire in my resistors. (They are wired in on the light blue wires) After that the primaries clicked and dripped (not sprayed) for a minute but soon after returned to only clicking with no fuel.
Any ideas?
08-20-09, 07:59 AM
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The fuel injector wires on a series four car (at the ECU) are light green, light green/white, light green/black, light green red.
They are in the small ECU plug.
You pull the small plug off and put the key to ON, and see if those wires mentioned above have batt voltage or not.
Spinning the engine over without the resistors would not fubar the ECU.
What yr car was your non turbo car? 86? early 87?
If this is what they call a JDM engine, the fuel lines connect just opposite the USA version. Give it a try. Swap the fuel lines at the engine hard lines. Common problem with JDM swaps.
They are in the small ECU plug.
You pull the small plug off and put the key to ON, and see if those wires mentioned above have batt voltage or not.
Spinning the engine over without the resistors would not fubar the ECU.
What yr car was your non turbo car? 86? early 87?
If this is what they call a JDM engine, the fuel lines connect just opposite the USA version. Give it a try. Swap the fuel lines at the engine hard lines. Common problem with JDM swaps.
08-20-09, 09:41 AM
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You are a guru and I read almost everything you wrote on this subject. I have power there and have since sorted out my injector woes. Turned out to be an obstruction in the fuel rail. I tore the whole system down last night and got her running.
New problem.
The car will not start or hold idle unless I prop the maf flapper open. Also the idiot lights and the shift up light are always on when the car is running. If I take the maf flapper prop out while the car is running it dies right away.
My car is an 88 and I put in a rebuild usdm engine using all s4 hardware. It seems to run good with the flapper door wedged open but this is a major problem.
Is there something more I should have done the the NA harness that is causing this?
New problem.
The car will not start or hold idle unless I prop the maf flapper open. Also the idiot lights and the shift up light are always on when the car is running. If I take the maf flapper prop out while the car is running it dies right away.
My car is an 88 and I put in a rebuild usdm engine using all s4 hardware. It seems to run good with the flapper door wedged open but this is a major problem.
Is there something more I should have done the the NA harness that is causing this?
08-20-09, 10:12 AM
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Okay just did a few checks. I'm only showing 10v when the car is running. Does this account for the idiot lights?
Also I tried an NA MAF that I know was good and it was the same deal, only worked with flapper propped open.
Also I tried an NA MAF that I know was good and it was the same deal, only worked with flapper propped open.
08-20-09, 01:45 PM
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When a series four alternator dies, it puts a ground on the White/Black wire on the small plug at the back of the alternator (small plug, two wires, one Black/White and the other White/Black). That gnd in turn puts a gnd on the coil of the Alt relay inside the CPU which causes that relay to pull in and put a gnd on the Warning Light cluster. All warning lights then come on letting you know the alt is bad or the belt fell off.
Yeah, ten volts means that puppys not putting out (alt).
When the engine actually starts, its *vacuum* causes the vane in the AFM to move aft. The vane makes a small fuel switch inside the afm when that happens. That switch in turn puts a gnd on the Circuit Opening Relay to keep the fuel pump ruinning once the key is moved back to just ON from Start.
The small, two wire fuel pump check connector in the engine bay does the same thing as the vane in the afm. When you jumper the small yellow connector, your putting a gnd on the circuit opening relay to keep the pump running once the key is put from Start back to ON.
Long story made shorter.........jumper the yellow fuel pump check connector to see if that will allow the engine to keep running.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html
I have a turbo engine in a non turbo car using a non turbo harness, so that harness is not your problem.
OR to prove me wrong about that, put the key to ON, engine OFF, and then push the vane in the afm aft about a half inch. IF the pump can be heard running............I'm flat wrong and that is not your problem.
Yeah, ten volts means that puppys not putting out (alt).
When the engine actually starts, its *vacuum* causes the vane in the AFM to move aft. The vane makes a small fuel switch inside the afm when that happens. That switch in turn puts a gnd on the Circuit Opening Relay to keep the fuel pump ruinning once the key is moved back to just ON from Start.
The small, two wire fuel pump check connector in the engine bay does the same thing as the vane in the afm. When you jumper the small yellow connector, your putting a gnd on the circuit opening relay to keep the pump running once the key is put from Start back to ON.
Long story made shorter.........jumper the yellow fuel pump check connector to see if that will allow the engine to keep running.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html
I have a turbo engine in a non turbo car using a non turbo harness, so that harness is not your problem.
OR to prove me wrong about that, put the key to ON, engine OFF, and then push the vane in the afm aft about a half inch. IF the pump can be heard running............I'm flat wrong and that is not your problem.
08-20-09, 04:24 PM
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Okay, I have a spare good alt no big deal there.
If I turn the key to on on push the vain the pump does come on. This is why I am stumped. I tested both my AFMs and they do the same thing. I have removed my emissions and I have very few brand new vacuum lines. No leaks there. My boost gauge also show normal vacuum at idle.
A friend of mine suggested the tps but we're both stabbing in the dark at this point.
I need this solved.
If I turn the key to on on push the vain the pump does come on. This is why I am stumped. I tested both my AFMs and they do the same thing. I have removed my emissions and I have very few brand new vacuum lines. No leaks there. My boost gauge also show normal vacuum at idle.
A friend of mine suggested the tps but we're both stabbing in the dark at this point.
I need this solved.
08-20-09, 05:00 PM
#7
WON'T FORGET DAVE
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Swapped out alt. Idiot lights are gone and voltage is normal. 
It still will not stay on unless the vane is propped open. I am going to try and reset the tps and see if this helps.
Anything else? At all?
It still will not stay on unless the vane is propped open. I am going to try and reset the tps and see if this helps.
Anything else? At all?
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08-20-09, 05:19 PM
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Is the brake boost feed nipple on the throttle body plugged or being used by the brake booster? That would only apply to a series four turbo car ..I think. It's a large nipple just to the right of the three/four small nipples back there on the throttle body.
Open hole on the back side of the turbo intake duct? Air hose b/t the BAC and the turbo outlet duct connected at both ends?
Open hole on the back side of the turbo intake duct? Air hose b/t the BAC and the turbo outlet duct connected at both ends?
08-20-09, 05:42 PM
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The brake boost is capped off for the time being. I figure the less the better right now.
Turbo intake is solid. No leaks. This setup is so simple.
Turbo intake is solid. No leaks. This setup is so simple.
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