satch

iTrader: (1)

You need to check for voltage on two wires as suggested. These wires supply voltage to the relay under two situations, starting and running. If the voltage checks out okay as it's supposed to then you look for problems elsewhere as part of the diagnosis.

The AFM is the Air Flow Meter located underneath the air box and has but one plug to it.

Poker Player

Oh, yea,, ok.. I know that connection. Let me start with additional info... I have the plastic airbox and it's connections to the throtle body off while I'm trying to start the car. Does that really affect the starting of the RX-7? I didn't think it would? I am a newbie to these rotory engines. This is my first RX-7 and working with these engines... Should I put the airbox and it's couple of hose connections on before trying to start the car? This usually doesn't affect other types of cars that I've owned. Shoot just for trouble shooting, you have to take them off!

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

why yes, if you take the airbox and subsequently airflow meter(AFM) out the car will not run properly. the airflow meter is what the ECU uses to gauge how much air is entering the engine and how much fuel it needs to run. it should start and run but usually will die after a few seconds because the ECU has no idea how much fuel it needs to inject. reinstall the airbox, be sure to plug in the AFM! and install the intake hose, cross your fingers and start it up.

Poker Player

ok, i'll put the air box and it's connections back on and see what happens.

barkz

iTrader: (1)

"what is AFM?"... oh boy

Poker Player

Oh a "Know it all" How these people love to snub their nose down at everybody else. Their so smart, they know EVERYTHING!!! Just keep your damn comments to yourself and let me learn. *** wipe!

Poker Player

Hey Satch, I used the multi meter, the way you said and it shows, 11.43. So is that good or bad? what next?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Did you also check the Black/Red wire as suggested?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

if it starts and runs for a second im thinking not to mess with the voltage readings at the relays, it's obvious the pump is doing something, but whether enough is the question. try checking the voltage at the pump itself via the black/white wire to the inspection cover, the connector is just below the rear of the driver side rear speaking tower under the carpet.

if you reinstalled everything and it's still showing the same symptoms that test will tell you if the voltage is being cut off just before the engine stalls.

satch

iTrader: (1)

And 11.43 volts is a bit weak as this is on the front side of the relay and after the voltage comes out of the back side of the relay it goes to another relay (if the engine is a turbo) before finding its way to the pump so you need to do as Karack suggests for your issue could very well be related to too little voltage making it to the pump.

Poker Player

Satch you were right about the volts! I kinda thought that was weak also. But i've been trying to start it a lot of times and thought I just ran down the battery. So I used the meter on the battery and it showed same results. So I took out the battery and put it on my charger. While it was quick charging, I rechecked all my connections again(millionth time) relooked over all the fuel lines. Rechecked the the fuel pump. I found that with the new fuel pump, it wasn't getting a very good seal. So I cut the old pipe connection and added a more direct fuel line for a better seal. Worked real well. Then I thought about the "AFM" (see how I used it, learned! HA) I saw that I did in fact have it connected and the airbox was on, I just didn't have the tubing on. So I put it on anyhow. After the battery was ready, I rechecked the volts before I installed it in the car. Now it showed, 12.83 volts. So I put it in, sat in the car, said a prayer, turned the key ignition to on, Still did not hear the fuel pump activate, cranked the car and boom!!!! She fired right up!!!! I almost screamed out loud I was so happy!!!!

Poker Player

I think somebody here said, that the pump does not stay on while the ignition is on w/car not running/started. The fuel pump only comes on while the car is being cranked or running. I thought about that and I think that comment might be true or correct, otherwise you would end up with a lot of flooding scenarios. Anyhow, with me readjusting the fuel pump connections, then connecting the air intake tunnels and recharging the battery because of the low voltage, this combination finally got her running. I just want to thank everybody for your inputs and help in getting my RX-7 running with special thanks to Satch and Karack. Thanks alot all.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Good to hear!

Poker Player

So now that it's running, I took her out for a 5 mile spin. She ran pretty good. Didn't push her at all, just a 45 mph drive. However I can't really go that far with no current registration on her. But I noticed that the oil pressure gage was up to 60? The water temp never reached 1/2way up the gage. It's a Stock Automatic and I thought the shifting was kinda rough. Have to look into that. There is a constant beeping sound. I don't know what it's indicating because there is no idiot light on. All the idiot lights come on at ignition start up, but all checked off after car was running. The beeping sound never went off though... So another problem.. Any ideas or where I should be looking for this problem now?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

if it's a series 4 '86-88 model then it should read 1/3 on the coolant temp normally, series 5 '89-91 goes to half way. anything above that and it's too hot.

beeping noise is from the power steering control unit, make sure all your power steering connections got plugged in after the rebuild.

60 psi is perfectly normal for the high range, should be about 20-30 at idle when fully warmed up.

Poker Player

Thanks Karack.. Series 5, 1989 N/A, Automatic. I remember while I was driving that I noticed that the steering was tough. I have not put in any fluid. So your probably right. It's dark now, I'll do that tomorrow. Here's a question, What is the HOLD button for on the gear selector? I saw it light up on the dash after I pushed it!

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

it's supposed to hold it in the current gear until you release it. but the auto's aren't really that great and had a mind of their own with mushy shifting which is why most people went with the manual.