AutoXRX

Hey whats up, my name is Dan and I have a Gold 88 RX-7 non turbo 5 speed. I usually post by the name MelloYello on other boards (mostly neon boards), but the name was already taken. Anyway as you can probably tell by my screen name and profile that i autocross. I come from owning a neon as my main transportation and ive been using it for auto-x as well. The RX-7 is a back up car since there are a few things wrong with it, and it doesnt like the snow and rain too much (or maybe its just the way i drive it).
Anyway I am use to driving a fwd car that handles pretty nicely. I am getting sick of the neon breaking and im tired of tuning my daily driver, it just gets annoying. So my ideas now are to return the neon to stock form and start all over again with the RX. Its light, and has no options like power windows or locks to weigh it down (though it does have a moonroof).

Ok on to the questions. First ill ask about fixing the car. The things that are wrong that need fixing:
1) The windsheild wipers are really messed up. They do not work on intermittent or high, only at middle setting. Oh and when i try to turn the wipers off.. they just stop wherever they are, so you need to time it so they stop at the bottom, or they get stuck in the middle of the windsheild. So anyone ever hear of this, and can help me fix it?

Actually i think thats all thats wrong with the car. I mean the radio doesnt work cuz the antenna is broken, the seats are ripped a little, but those things i can figure out on my own.

Now setting the car up for autocross:
I race with a group called NASA (National Auto Sport Assosiation). For those who dont know we run totally different rules than SCCA,,, BUT i would like to enter SCCA events so help me out here. I do not know exactly what is legal to stay in a lower "stock" group. I would like to do Koni's and new springs to start. Is there a better combo. I do not have the money to fork out for coilovers, but i think single adjustable konis should do for now. Swaybars?? How important are they to beef up on these cars? I know they do pretty well in playing with them on neons, but these are totally different cars (maybe about the same weight, but nothing else).

I guess thats all for now since this is a big enough post as it is. Thanks for all your help. Oh and the car is still running strong with over 120K miles. Wish i could say the same for the neon R/T. Man i love rotary's.
-Dan-

hypntyz7

The wiper failure is very common. THe switch is teh culprit. You can try used ones, but I strongly suggest you get a repaired one. PM Icemark on this forum, he professionally rebuilds these switches at a very reasonable rate. I recommend his work very much, I have used a couple of them already.

Finding a working used one is a 1 in 10 shot, and even if you do, it'll likely die in 3 months anyway.

krazykoncepts

Hey Dan welcome to the board

About that wiper thing like hypntyz7 said this is a common problem. Infact i even have it. Im gonna try to fish mine this week and i beleive there a write up on how to do it. Search the 2nd gen forum.

AutoXRX

thanks guys. I am glad to see this isnt some strange problem no one has seen before.
-Dan-

hypntyz7

That, the bad clock, and engine flooding are probably the most common things that EVERY 86-88 WILL have, or will soon have.

00nothing

wow another neon/rx7 guy i have a platinum 1st gen and am picking up my 86 gxl this weekend i am mostly on neoncanada

Kenteth

welcome. my rex loves the snow, maybe its the tires?

AutoXRX

oh i just thought of a few other things wrong with the car. The clock does not work anymore. I think i just saw something in the second gen FAQ so ill look into it more.

The other problem is kinda strange i think. It has to do with the shifter. There is no longer a stop on the left side. What i mean by this is if i go to shift into 1st, there is a chance that i will push it over too far and it ends up being in a really messed up position. It still goes into gear, but getting it out of 1st is the hard part. I am thinking maybe the shifter bushings are shot, but the stop should still be in place. I'll have to take it apart to find out, but its really weird. The shifter is also very very loose in nuetral between 1st and 3rd. But between 3rd and 5th its pretty stiff (normal). I dont get it. I think these two problems are one in the same. I just wanted to see if anyone has seen this before.
-Dan-

hypntyz7

The clock suffers from bad solder joints, as do all the electronic parts on the entire car. The same guy repairs clocks too, that I mentioned above.

The shifter's problem is the 2 plastic bushings that go on it. Do a search for shifter bushings or shift bushings. They cost about $15 each or less, and are a 10 minute job to replace. Available at any mazda dealer or places like mazdatrix.com.

AutoXRX

sweet. Thanks hypntyz7 you have been a great help.
-Dan-

Evil Aviator

The shifter bushing replacement and antenna fix are here:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq.htm

See our Race Car Tech section for autocross and NASA issues:
https://www.rx7club.com/forumdisplay...65&forumid=103

If you want to race in SCCA events, you should get a copy of the GCR and Solo I / Solo II rules before modifying your car. As you can see, things are cheaper if you join the SCCA. If you can get the car running, you may consider joining the SCCA at an autocross event because most regions give a special discount of some type to those who join at the event (such as your first race free, or your 5th race free, etc.).
http://www.scca.org/news/index.html#comp_regs

Also note that Mazda has a Team Support sponsorship program and a contingency program. You should at least apply to the Team Support program, and then you can get your parts at a discount by racing in at least two events per year (yes, autocross counts). The contingency program is good if you think you will win some events, but you need to have all of the Mazda stickers on your car for this.
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com

jinx22630

I would just like to add, that when you replace the shifter bushings, make sure that you snug those bolts down pretty tight. I replaced my bushings the day i got my 88 GXL, and tightened the bolts with what i thought was a resonable amount of torque. Within days i was having the same problem with the shifter getting stuck WAY past where it should have been. Anyway, just make sure that you tighten them down. Use your head and dont break them. Hope this helps some.
Oh, and welcome to the Forum!!!!!