robynhoods

I'm looking at getting a 86. I don't know what the is in the car, but it dose come with 2 13b my ? is can some one post the different codes (ie 20b 13bt 13b) and what thay are turbo,hp, and what not.

I'm also thinking of doing a turbo car with the 13b if the car has one. What can i run for psi in the car i know that a fuel upgrade will be needed i'm still reading and learning.

Node

iTrader: (1)

13b is the 2 rotor engine.
I think there was a 13a which was roughly 1300cc but sortve different and a lot older


13bs have been around for a while. I think RX-4's RX-5's, REPUs (Rotary Engined PickUp), the GSL-SE model of the first gens had a fuel injected 13b while the rest had carbureted 12a's

12a, see that whole bit. the "a" means it was the first 1200cc or so engine that they produced. Or its kind of like that

Some of thse are older cars/engines so I'll juist refer to the more modern enignes and meanings

13B will refer to any 2 rotor, and more specifically the 6-port motors that came int he non-turbo 86-92 RX-7s

13BT is the turbocharged variant of that motor which had a 4 port and lower compression to take the turbos.

13B-REW is the twin turbo 3rd gen rx-7 motor. the RE stands for Rotary Engine and the W stands for twin turbo

13B-RE is the 2 rotor cosmo motor. The cosmo was a japanese luxury car never brought to the US. This is actually a twin turbo motor just like the REW, it had 4 ports as well but had different sized ports (all were diff including exhaust) and different intake manifold. It had slightly smaller twin turbos. These were sequential just like the REW motors.

20B-REW is the kingshit of rotaries and came in the top of the line cosmos. Only came with automatics from the factory and was twin sequential turbo like the other cosmo motor.

13Bs are 1306cc disclacement, or 1307. i forget. Always a two rotor
20B's are exactly the same but with one more rotor. 1959cc's or something like that

86-88 Series 4
13B 9.4:1 compression and made 146hp i think. this is all from memory so i may be off by 2 hp or so.
13BT was 8.5:1 compression and made 182hp. (came out with turbo in 87)

89-91 Series 5
13B 9.7:1 compression and 160hp
13BT 9.0 compression and 200hp.

90-95 Cosmo
Cosmos were all 9.0:1 compression just like the series 5 BT and the REW motors

93-95 (US but jap got 3rd gens until 2002)
These are known as series 6's outside of the US, because they had them longer in some countries. s6 was 93-95 which the US had. then there was 96-98 which was s7 and s8 was 99-02
These all had 9.0:1 compression and made different power over the years. All REWs that the US got made 255hp

Torque for the FC's was pretty much even with hp ratings. the FD however did like 215 or so tq.

Now to explain the chassis codes which you might notice

First Gen RX-7
SA22C 1979-1980
FB3S 1981-1985
North America was the only one to recieve the FB, japan stuck with the SA and they actually got a turbo 12a

Second Gen RX-7
FC3S 1986-1991 (92 was only verts)

Third Gen RX-7
FD3S 1993-1995 for US

the new Cosmos (there was an older cosmo, also known as the RX-5)
JC3S 1990-1995

RX-8
FE3S i think

and you'll hear these terms slaughtered to shorter terms. like fb fc fd and so on.
these are the chassis codes and you will find all/part of it in the first 6 or so charactors of your vin



as for your 86 running boost. not stock. they came out with the turbo model in 87

Node

iTrader: (1)

ive been told that i can run around 8psi give or take on my 122k mile old original turbo motor.
Its not so much that that is all it will take as its an old motor.
A healthy turbo motor will take 14psi on pump gas no problem at all if the tuning and fuel is good. People run 17psi and up on pump gas.

Good tuning and lots of fuel is what turbo rotaries need and love.
You can not just throw intake and full exhaust on a turbo rotary and expect it to work. Usually this ends with a blown motor. The fuel system and computer need to be addressed as you mod the car.
Research the supporting mods for whatever you want to do to your car before you mod it. Well, if it is a turbo.


As for non-turbos. You can beat the **** out of them all day long. Just give the motor time to warm up to operating temps, change the oil and don't overheat them. Not really much to take care of. Non-turbo rotaries love low-octane gas and will take tons of abuse for many many miles. And you can mod the hell out of them and not have much fuel problems at all. Maybe add a fuel pump at most.