BlackRx7

Okay I recenly just bought BoostinFC's 88 TII, and it is way faster than my 89 gtu. But anyway just a coupla basic questions...the mods are as follows : Reactive intake, midpipe, straight though stainless steel mufflers, FD fuel pump, cleaned 550s, and a FCD

What fuel grade (93?)
good sized tires (16/55/205s)
Should I be worried about leaning out?
what does the fuel cut feel like?
I'm getting a hesitation at like 5k-6k without the FCD
then when I put it on no hesitation.
Sometimes after normal driving smoke comes from the turbo side of the engine bay.
Finally, I've seen much on the do it yourself Manual Boost controller and understand how to make it and how it works, but I have failed to find a diescriptive installtion procedure.

now I'm new to this turbo thing so if there is anything I missed that is usefull to know, don't be shy, I appreciate all info you guys give me, just glad there is actually a place I can talk to people that have the same hobbie as me, cause there are none down here in San Antonio

thanks again

UniqueTII

Fuel: highest octane possible, avoid oxygenated gas
Tires: 205-55-16 through 225-50-16, based on brand.
Leaning out: Get an EGT gauge.
Fuel cut: hitting a wall (only acceleration wise )
Smoke: dunno
MBC: dunno
turbo knowledge: let it cool down before you shut off the car, either by idling or driving slowly for the last couple miles.

vosko

iTrader: (4)

93 or 94 octane. whatever you can get
stock tire size is ok 205/55/16
you should be worried about leaning out if you run more than 10psi with only FCD.
fuel cut feels like a hesitation.
with full exhaust and no FCD YOU WILL HIT FUEL CUT
that is very bad cause it cuts fuel to the rear rotor when this occurs. whenever your car smokes that is bad. you might have a bad turbo gasket. you can get a boost controller from www.boostvalve.com

do you have an aftermarket boost gauge ? if not get one very soon to make sure your not overboosting.

probably want to invest in a better fuel pump like a walbro

vosko

iTrader: (4)

ed beat me before i could hit post

biorotary

fuel wise, i put in 91 octane (it's the highest we have here in ca) simply because i'm running about 8psi and i don't want my engine to dentonate...
tire size...right now i have a set of 205/55 16 but i'm planning on putting some 225/50 16 on soon as i get a little $$$ saved up...
and no, you shouldn't have to worry too much about leaning out unless you're running 10psi or so...in your case, i'd recommend you get a good boost gauge
fuel cut??? haven't experienced that cause my t2 came with a reprogrammed ecu w/ the fuel cut taken off...
the smoke from the turbo side of the engine could mean that there's an oil leak...
now on the boost controller, i'd recommend you just forking out the $$ and getting a good manual (turbosx) or electronic (greddy, hks, apex, blitz, etc) one...trust me, you don't want your new (new to you) t2 to go kaboom before it's time....

BlackRx7

One more thing what kinda gas milage should I get around 200 to a tank? I think the FD fuel pump is messing with my stock Fuel gauge cause I just filled up yesterday and drove 36 miles and its already at half a tank, though it seems like the bottom half takes longer to run out.

whats an egt?
I'm ordering a boost gauge ($15) and air/fuel guage ($30)from JC whitney.

I was just reading an article in an old sports compact car and they explain the AEM FPR, it increases with boost with a 1:1 ratio lemme find the magazine one sec..

biorotary

mpg wise i get about 17 (mostly city) i haven't taken it on a long enough highway trip to calc the hwy mpg...
and egt = exhaust gas temp

vosko

iTrader: (4)

you could run a RRFPR but i don't think you really need to. you should get around 200-250 miles per tank depending on how often your on boost. if you get a cheap boost gauge it might be off 1-3 psi plus or minus! who ever put in the fd pump might of bent the floater. you can take it out and check it out......

BlackRx7

what boost gauge do you recommend?

and what fuel mods would you go for?
S-AFC?
Bigger injectors?
ect.

vosko

iTrader: (4)

any name brand boost gauge, apexi,blitz,greddy,etc. they cost a good bit. you can get greddy 720cc secondaries and a s-afc so you can safely run more boost but.... the easier option is to just limit the boost around 6psi by porting the wastegate then you won't have to worry about leaning out

BlackRx7

so just by porting my wastegate I can lower the boost?
It makes sence I guess more exhaust escaping=less boost right. Okay now if only I knew where the wastegate was and knew how to take it off, I'll go check my Hayes manual. Thanks for all your help vosko, I read your thread about your surrendered TII, that pretty badass considering how many miles and how much HP you where putting out.

I didn't order JC whitney's boost gauge but I did get there Air/Fuel Ratio gauge, its all digital and looks like a black panel when the ignition is off, 7-10 days I will get it, I swear if we where to offer proformence parts like all the name brands, got it off the internet for cheap and had a 3-4 day turnaround time, I think we would be the most popular thing...Ohh sorry just daydreaming

vosko

iTrader: (4)

the wastegate is integrated in manifold its internal. you have to pull off the manifold and turbo. www.fc3s-pro.com has alot of good info( i think that's the correct site) when you have full exhaust flows too much for the small wastegate and causes the boost to rise over what it should. anyway if you can afford a decent boost gauge i would get one yeah my TII was a blast. BEST $500 i ever spent my TII is gonna make a great daily driver

BlackRx7

If I port the waste gate will I still in the future be able to raise boost ie a EBC? Just woundering

vosko

iTrader: (4)

YES. a ported wastegate allows you better control of boost